FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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R32 INTO MK3 1997 VR6 obd2 help if you could!
FishWick replied to SilvaRizla's topic in Engine Tuning
Someone on the Corrado forum has got a 24V engine running from a 12V OBD1 ECU, but as you say, it's got no DBW, cam control and it's not wideband fuelled etc etc.... Personally I would use the R32 ECU and run the engine as it's supposed to be run. -
Not really, just been driving it :-) Going up to Vince on the 12th to take the gearbox off as it seems the clutch release fork is bent. Very common problem with uprated clutches. Gonna stick an O2J diesel release fork in, new clutch and the Schimmel flywheel. Drove a mates bog standard Corrado VR6 the other night and my god was that slow!! Not from being non turboed, but just the stupidly tall gearing and linear, flat feeling power delivery!! VR6s NEED turbos :-)
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Yeah VAG-COM will tell you if the cam sensor is dead, it''ll be something like this - "G40 - Cam position sensor - No signal / short to ground / implausible signal".
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It does actually. All that happens is the ECU turns off Sequential injection, runs a bit richer and retards the ignition. Bosch Motronic was pretty sophisticated even in the early 90s. It's subtle and a lot of people don't even notice, until they see their power is down 20% on the dyno.
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That's not a problem. Guarantee it will be an ATP clone and they fit RHD cars no problemo! All you need to do is relocate the brake fluid resevoir which is very easy. As for the kit, it seems you get a heck of a lot of stuff for £900! Definitely too good to be true.
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I've never examined the Haldex system, but I guess, the 'controller' is an electro magnetic clutch in the rear diff? Hence why you see people unplugging it on 2WD dyno days :-) If it works like other 4WD systems, then you still need some load on the transfer box (i,e, a prop or some wheels, diff etc) or it won't work. Bit like an open diff with one wheel staying still. Coming along very nicely Maiden. Keep us posted on the 02M progress, definitely something I want to do to mine eventually.
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If you know nothing about turbos, I'd be inclinded to getting C2's fuelling / software kit rather than messing with FMUs. If you build the engine right and fit a good fuel pump, you'll have enough there for ~20 psi, depending on turbo size. If you definitely want to go down the FMU road, then personally I would only use the BEGI. It's the best there is and if you're going to do it, do it right! You say you only want 250hp, but you'll get used to that in no time. If you only build the engine to handle that power, if you get a wastegate problem or a fuelling problem etc, the engine will
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No, that's a 1:1 regulator. You need a rising rate regulator.
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Could be a dead cam sensor. That usually sees a big drop in torque and power. And yes, lose the filter and get a BMC!
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I found that website that sells ATP stuff in the UK - http://www.gt3turbo.com/Merchant/home.php?cat=349
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That's good news as I've heard quite a few people in America had problems with the Delphis on their C2 42lb software, but I think the later yank ECUs must be specifically tailored for the Bosch injectors. I tried the Delphis on my OBD2 (with and without C2 code) and it didn't bat an eye lid. Anyway, you hit another nail on the head..... adding loads of grunt to an old car.... old existing parts tend to give up a little sooner than you'd like, LOL! Get together sounds good :-)
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Bloody ell, has it been a year already Jim? You've done really well! I've had my fair share of problems but hopefully it's going to behave this time round....i.e. no cracking manifolds!! Been turboed for nearly 2.5 years now and the only thing that's caused me to call the AA out was split turbo coolant lines. Glad to hear the C2 + Delphi combo is working out for you mate.
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Mine's under the rear arm rest in my Corrado :wink: Best place for dead weight is between the axle lines :-)
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Thanks Jim and good idea about the meets! I need to get a decent remap first. My tuning on the road works OK, but I want a custom one on the dyno to get all the load points tuned correctly :-)
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The two things that cost the most are 1) reliability and 2) power goals. 1) You CAN build a reliable, daily use VR6T but you really must use the best quality plumbing fittings, hoses and components. Always build over kill and you'll have few problems. 2) Power costs money! If you want up to 400hp, then it can be done with an array of reasonably priced turbos. The standard engine with C2 Motorsports chip, a spacer, clutch and a better fuel pump will handle that quite nicely. So long as you're not brutal with it all the time, the transmission should last. If you want 500hp or more, then you
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Race battery means it's made for weight saving and only designed to start the engine so that the alternator can take over when it's running. Unfortunately they don't have the reserve capacity like standard batteries do. The VAG batteries are very good now. Sealed black units with the green inspection light (like the old AC Delcos) and I've left that sat for 2 weeks and it started the car 1st turn :-) They're heavy though, 23Kg for the 76 Ah!
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A non cheap schitt install will cost him several thousand!!
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Boost gauges used to read -30 inHg - 0 - 30 psi, but these days they read -30psi to 0 etc which is meaningless. VR6s usually idle at around -18 inHg. Yep, it will go past 0 into boost when you drive it, but where it's sitting at idle sounds OK to me.
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Yeah just the sump and pump are the essentials.
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LOL, I'll bear that in mind :-)
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Everything above 0 is boost. Everything below 0 is vacuum.
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Remember, it's not the boost pressure that makes the power, but rather the turbo's airflow rate. It's all down to turbo sizing. 15psi from a GT30R usually makes around 380-400hp. 15psi from a GT35R is always well over 400, sometimes as high as 450 on good engines.
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Yeah that will be a problem on your setup now you mention it, the MAF needs to be as close to the headlight as possible. You will also need a recirc valve instead of a dump valve!
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I did see a UK site that seemed to sell ATP stuff, but I can't find it now! Places like AET or Owen Developments might have one?
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Optimas are better, but again, if you use a tiny battery, you get tiny current out of it ;-)
