FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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That is amazing! I love the way the dump valve and wastegate are built into the turbo. Got to be the most compact VRT setup I've seen!
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Ah I see the pic now. I remember Allard Motorsport making one like that many years ago for someone on the Corrado forum. Could it be the same one? I like it anyway, very nice bit of kit! Good point about having the cooler after the throttle. I can't see it being that important, the air will get cooled either way, but there's no other way with that intake! Yeah Bodge, what I was thinking is the water might end up trying to cool the intake and cylinder head, rather than the cooler core and compressed air, but that will only happen when sat in traffic. May not be such a bad thing though :-
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Is yours a coilpack one? If so, on the coilpack lift off the black cover that the loom clips into and you'll see 4 binding posts. Pin 15 will be a switched live and the other 3 will be the low tension signals. I may have muddled up the orientation but the post nearest the front of the cat is coil 1/6, the middle one is 3/4 and the rear one is 5/2. Hope that helps! Wiring can be daunting at first but it's really easy in practice :-) Emerald can supply you with an unterminated loom for a reasonable price, which I would recommend you use. Dave Walker is also more likely to help you that JKM
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yeah I'm not sure if the factory management has any "undisclosed" auxillary inputs. Is yours OBD1 or OBD2? C2 would know how to make it work.
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I can't see any pics hosed on Photobucket mate, my work block them!! I'll have a look later at home. Sounds interesting though. Yeah with a turbo it would be a really, really short boost path. Throttle response will be awesome. It just concerns me though a chargecooler being sat between a glowing turbo and a cylinder head roasting away at 150+ deg C externally, but as you say, it's good to experiment with these things! I've had an infrared thermometer on my engine and there's some pretty scary temps going on in there! You'll be fine with an S/C though, lower temps coming out of the compre
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I doubt JKM will give you the wiring details over the phone, they'll want some money from you. It's p1ss easy anyway. I've wired my DTA into the an OBD1 loom and also done a DTA loom from scratch, bypassing all the VW wiring completely. I'll try and list what a I remember as some wiring varies across the cars:- In ECU plug harness:- Yellow/Blue - Fuel pump relay trigger Grey/Black - ECU +12V relayed power supply Green/Black - RPM signal for tacho On coilpack:- Purple/black - Coils 5/2 Blue/Black - Coils 3/4 Brown/black - Coils 1/6 And the the thick black wire is +12V supply, which can also fe
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I like that, but it's way over priced. I used this one and it's very accurate and reliable - http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=134 The 0-5V output on the Dutch one is useful though as it can be used to increase fuelling once EGT hits a certain temp, say 1000 deg, to protect the exhaust valves.
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Forced induction plus G60 final drive feels perfect to me, same gearing as a 1.8T 02J gearbox. Some people will find 5th a little short though as the torque wants to keep pulling, but the engine needs a 6th for some resistance to work against. But we are talking 120mph plus. If you're up there a lot then your license is on borrowed time!
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I can't see the Pic of John's but I've seen a stock VR6 intake with a built in chargecooler core. Is that what we're discussing? It was in a PVW or something last year, a black MK3 VRT made by an American firm called something 'industries'? Can't remember the first bit, LOL! It looked brilliant but I'm not sure how much heat would get sucked out of the head by the intake like a wick? It must work though as Jaguar and Mercedes use very similar systems. It will be interesting to see what the intake temps are like as I'd love to use something like that :-)
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I don't use the standard intake or fuel rail, so I use a remote adjustable fuel regulator - http://www.spturboparts.com/aftermarket/ViewDetails.aspx?prod=16344 But if I was using the stock rail, I'd definitely fit one of those OE shaped adjustables :-)
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They're handy for mods and cheap too :-)
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Mine's been discontinued now :-( It was handy as it's not much bigger than a cigarette packet. They've replaced it with the M300TE - http://www.plxdevices.com/wideband.html Just as good, but bigger case. Looks to have more mounting options though.
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Why don't you guys just get one of these and be done with it? http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_2818&products_id=174
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LOL. yeah the Ball bearing and hammer trick to increase the spring tension :-) They are £45+VAT last time I got one from a dealer. 4 bar that is.
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Oh and Customs and Excise will randomly open packages anyway, regardless of the labelling and if they suspect foul play, they will come down on you like a tonne of bricks. HMC&E have more power than the police!!
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Agreed, buy from VW or a reputable place. Ebay is full of schitt these days.
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I've been using this for a couple of years now and it's been extremely good. Simple plug and play, no calibration or programming required. http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/PLX-M300
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You can get away with stiff front mounts because the front cross member is isolated from the chassis with rubber donuts. With the rear and gearbox mounts, any vibration will be transmitted directly into the car. I use all 3 Vibratechnics. Competition at the front, Fast road at the rear and Competition gearbox. That's probably a little vibratory for some, but for me it's as far as I'd go personally. It's not harsh at all but the engine loses it's smoothness under hard acceleration. I've been in a MK3 with VF all round and it was unbelievably smooth! Couldn't believe it, but that's how
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I'd stick to the Schimmel one, it's tried and tested. That hot tuning one looks like a copy and the horrendous english would be put me off anyway, LOL! :-)
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Yeah that's it, I think there is a £50 surcharge on the flywheel IIRC, but you get that back when you take them back your old flywheel. I don't know why they want them back because the one I bought was brand new, certainly not resurfaced! And yes, I have heard of similar stories about modifying stock flywheels but I bet that's only in extreme cases where they've removed far too much material. Better to be safe than sorry and get a purpose made flywheel imo, but the exchange rate isn't so hot at the minute.....
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P.S. The top speeds quoted above are at 7000rpm. Yeah that's an alternative method but you can only go so far with the stock flywheel. The Cromoly one is a whole new flywheel half the thickness of the VW one. If you take a stock one to a decent machinist, they might be able to turn it down in a lathe or something, but you won't lose 9lbs by drilling it unfortunately. I would always use a new VW flywheel if doing that as they're only £75 exchange and a perfect mating surface for the new clutch, which helps the bed in no end.
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Pete, I'm using Schimmel's flywheel mate - http://www.spturboparts.com/aftermarket/ViewDetails.aspx?prod=16024 It's 9lb, so half the weight of the stock flywheel. Lightest flywheels are the fidanzas at 6lb but they're ally and certainly with turbos I'd rather user a stronger material, which is why Schimmel's Cro-moly one is so good. Not too light, not too heavy and very, very strong :-) Yes, the top end does take a hit with the G60 final. Theoretical max with the standard diff and 17" wheels is 173mph. Theoretical max with the G60 diff and 17" wheels is 156mph if I remember correctly, but as
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LOL, and I meant Borg Warners are tanks in terms of petrol engine use :-) OK, so it seems the HX35 is an old cummins diesel engine turbo, which Holset say is good for up to 280hp, LOL! But after more digging, they can make 450hp on a petrol engine as they behave very differently. The 12cm2 T3 is Holset's way of saying AR. The smaller the number, the smaller the AR. Most folk say upgrade to a 16cm2 turbine housing, or get a HX35/40 hybrid. So in other words, it's usable, but make life easier for yourself mate and stick to the tried and tested Garrett's :-) Also, if it's a diesel turbo, it
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Gearbox has to be removed and stripped completely, which is why it's best to roll it all in as one Quaife / Final Drive / Clutch job! Light flywheel, yes, makes a nice difference but depending on what weight you go for and the brand of clutch, you might get a little judder and some vibration in the car. The OE flywheel is heavy for a reason ;-) With the shorter final drive and a light flywheel, it feels so much better, more nimble and more accelerative.
