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shail

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Everything posted by shail

  1. shail
    I think the idea is that when the h'shoulder is used as a running lane it is constantly monitored for breakdowns. If emergency vehicles need to use it, they just change the sign above the h'shoulder to a red X. Heres a link... http://www.highways.gov.uk/roads/projects/4673.aspx
  2. shail
    They are trialling this on the M42 in Birmingham. They have constructed refuge points - basically laybys next to the hard shoulder. If you break down you are supposed to use these. Above the hardshoulder there are signs. Currently it shows a big red cross and you cant use the h'shoulder for a running lane until the trial begins. Noticed today that an advanced matrix sign read "M42 Juntion 4 to 5, H'shoulder running when indicated', so they may have started to trial it. I think its a good idea, it will only be used when the traffic conditions are 'right' (according to the higways agency)
  3. shail
    I had the same problem, which then turned into it stalling at idle. HT leads were fine (Magnecor - altough I did have a problem with one lead arcing a while ago which they replaced for free), as were the spark plugs. Had the throttle body cleaned and still the same problem. In the end I changed the mass air flow sensor and it did the trick. GSF do them for about £70.
  4. shail
    Sounds like what I had - the earth strap on the starter perished.
  5. shail
    I think all you need is a bonnet, lights and grill from a Vento and just bolt them on.
  6. shail
    This is of no help but....There is a way to make they fuel gauge behave in this way, but like you can't remember what the trick was. Has the car been run over the last few months or was it standing while your knee got better?
  7. shail
    Thats spot on. 95 round town, 104/105 on m'way. During the really hot weather a few weeks back mine got up to 118/119!
  8. shail
    For the last week or so the cars cutting out on idle after driving for a while with the engine at normal temps. Took it to Stealth who cleaned the throttle body, checked HT leads and put in new spark plugs. It was ok when at Stealth when i picked it up, but started to stall again this evening. I'm thinking the MAF is knackered - how much are they? I've heard that they can be £200+, but looking at GSF they are about £70, which is nearer? PS its a OBDII car.
  9. shail
  10. shail
    I like the general look of the new pages, but theres a bit more navigation required than before - e.g if you want to look at 'interior'. Just me being lazy s'pose. Would have liked to see the 'click here for new posts' link display all new posts and not just the last 50.
  11. shail
    I dont reckon its our twisted minds of today. I'd put money on the comic artists knowing exactly what they were doing with their innuendos.
  12. shail
    Had the same problem with one of my Magnecore leads. Stealth orginally supplied and fitted them, so they arranged for a replacement HT lead (free of charge). Vince @ stealth told me that they had updated the boot design on the leads now. He also said that he'd only seen this before on S/C engines and not N/A like mine.
  13. shail
    brentacre: 01792 650933
  14. shail
    Also try Brentacre from Wales, they have always been the cheapest for me.
  15. shail
    I'm having the following probs: Last week the car started to have an unstable idle (tried to stall when clutch was in). It also produced black smoke from exhaust when it was spluttering in neutral. It would also misfire slightly when driving normally on the motorway, especially when I took my foot off the gas. Then yesterday it wouldn;t start properly. It would catch and the engine would turn over, but then immediatly stall (unless i put my foot on the gas). Then last night I overcooked the starter motor and now thats packed up as well. The starter motor going is another issue, but what co
  16. shail
    I paid £40 for a re-gas using a mobile aircon fella.
  17. shail
    Heres me with my pipe.
  18. shail
    :$ Thank fuck! I was going to reply to lilac thread and tell you to have a word with yourself.
  19. shail
    Warren, Loving the new look. Really nice colour choice. I seen to remember you talking about lilac on one of the threads on here.
  20. shail
    I would say that to get the best return on your money you should sell the schrick etc. separatly and bring the car back to stock.
  21. shail
    I did it insitu. Its a bit of a pain to access. Remove the connector to the radiator fans to get better access. Also, disconnect the battery, otherwise you may get sparks flying. As for the jubilee clips - spot on. Just make sure the casing to the starter is clean so you get a good contact.
  22. shail
    You could solder it no problem, but you'd have to take the starter out, or remove half your engine to gain access to it with a soldering iron. I got the clip from a hardware shop, so no links i'm afraid. Another idea I had was to get a couple of big-ish jubilee clips and use them to hold the new braided strap to the starter body. In hindsight jubilee clips would probably work a treat and would have been a lot easier.
  23. shail
    Ive had the same on mine. I have done a bodge on it, which has been working for 12 months+. One end is bolted on to the starter, and the other is soldered onto a little flat pin which sticks out of the starter body. Basically I bought a new (long) strap and bolted one end back on as per original, and soldered a heavy duty clip (i tried a large corocodile clip first, but it only lasted 2 starts before it melted) onto the other end of the new strap and clipped it to the pin which sticks out of the starter casing. Make sure you secure the new strap so it doesnt get caught up in the gear stick
  24. shail
    Are you sure its the seat? I had what i thought was a creaking seat. It turned out to be the exhuast. There is a small horizontal bar which is welded to the exhaust which holds the rubber hangers. The bar had come off the exhaust, so I had it welded back on.
  25. shail
    I used a thin screw driver and inserted it into the end of the strip (theres a small diameter channel that runs through it) and pryed the first bit off, then gentley pulled the rest off by hand. Easy. I did however loose a bit of paint when i removed the black sticker type thing that runs along the top of the door cill (i ripped it off instead of gently peeling)
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