shail
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Everything posted by shail
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my 4mo r32 hybrid SNOW VIDS ARE UP P 17 :)
shail replied to Eat this's topic in Members Rides and Event Photos
Now that's quick! Was that launch with you down on boost too? 60-100 is also impressive. What gear were you in at 60-100? -
I remember that ad! I also tried to find it ages ago, cheers for the link.
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Small world! I''ve sent he V5 to the DVLA, so you should get a new one soon.
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Well, after 8 years in my ownership I've finally sold my VR6. Its gone to a new owner who is going to be drag racing it. Who knows how long it will last being drag raced, but its how it would have wanted to go! Just to say a thanks to all who've helped me along the way. I think I've been a member of the forum for about 7 years!
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There is a drain screw specifically for draining. It on the 'crack pipe' and is a pain to get to and see. Use bottom rad hose as said above.
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As above. Put a 90 degree bend in the bar. Attach one side to tensioner other to the CDA
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I could have engine swapped, but the Mk4 is in such nice nick, and the engine is sweet I couldn't bring myself to mess about with it.
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So, my VR is off the road after 7 years of ownership. Bought a Mk4 1.8T to replace it. Although the Mk4 feels nippier than the VR, its just not the same. I miss the VR6 noise. I also miss the fact that my old 2.9 lump would not run out of steam and pull hard to three figure speeds. The Mk4 gets there, but 'feels' like it will run out of steam after 100. Oh, did I mention I miss the noise? Just wish the Mk3 didn't have to rust ;(
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I had random stalling/cutting out a few years ago. My problem were corroded wires going into the MAF multi plug, loosing contact every now and then as I drove.
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I get that on cold days too. I just put it down to the oil being that much thicker on colder days, taking a little longer to get to the top of the engine.
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Check boot carpet too, also remove the spare wheel and check in the wheel well. I had water coming in from dodgy rear light cluster, going into the boot carpet and on to rear footwell. Do you have a sunroof? There are a few drainage holes around the frame - check they are not blocked. Also check the rubber drain holes on the front door frame near the hinge for blockages.
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Thanks for the replies. I didn't dump it in the end as it appears the gate is shut. Dropped it in the morning and had to get the effing bus to work.
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Does anyone know if I would be able to park my car in the stealth car park, or is there a barrier at the entrance outside normal hours? I'm booked in tomorrow for a service and it would be easier for me to dump it there tonight. Cheers
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Did your last HU have the same issues? I fitted one of those amplifiers and it sorted out my reception problems. The amplifer you linked to needs a power feed from the loom - is this power feed connected & providing a voltage?
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[moved] wont start........anyone had this before?
shail replied to DanH's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
I have had this same thing when my battery was on its way out. Strange clicking noises from behind the dash, clocks resetting etc.... You said you battery is fine, but I'd get it checked out again. -
That isn't the 'crack pipe' people talk about. But it is a weakness on the coolant system,which seems to leak quite often. Mine went, but I can't remember if I got a new bit from VW or a second hand one. Either way, I have seen a metal one available on the net somewhere - I'm sure someone on here will know??
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Dont put any old stuff in it, as it may not be compatible and sludge up. You can get G12+ coolant from GSF as well as VW.
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If funds are tight, and its only one lead thats broken, you could try VW to see if they sell them as singles. Also try aftermarket makers like Magnecor, I'm sure they'd sell you a single lead too.
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SOunds like a carbon copy of my problem, which turned out to be leaking rear light cluster. Take your boot carpet out and spare wheel. Check drain hole on the boot floor under the spare is clear of debris, and dry out the boot carpet. My rear light was leaking due to a dodgy foam seal around the rear of the light. I had aftermarket lights, which had a thinner seal. I;ve put the standard lights back on, and the water problem has gone. You will also need to take out the carpet around the suspension turrets, so you can dry them. ONce i removed the carpets, I could see lots of condensation o
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I'm a civil engineer, design bridges for a living.
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Just had a look at this http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/alternate_profiles/memberlist.php?usrname=&email=&sort=10860.30 I think Pete and Binliner are the oldest members who I still see post on these forums. I've been here quite a while too, in that time I've started to go grey, and my car has started to rust. :-( Maybe need a 'pensioners' forum...
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As above, that is WAY over priced. He's asking over the odds as its low mileage, but as you can see, its things like rust that matter on a car that is 11 years old. The rust by the side skirt could (and probably does) continue behind the skirt.
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I use something called Trapster on my mobile. The camera locations are inputted by users of the program. Its ok for a free bit of software. My phone has built in GPS, so it works well. Think its also available for iPhone
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I would start with changing the gearbox oil. I had issues, which became slightly better with the change. Although I did find that gearbox was stiffer when cold after change, but better when warm