ripstop

Open up the rubber protected loom connections between the door and the shell, its a notorious place to check for broken or almost broken wires. I have an ongoing battle with my rear passenger side window until I bother to fix it.

This sounds like the pump cycling as you brake. I can sometimes feel a slight pulsing, which is the best way to describe it,when i brake hard. This can be normal as long as the ABS light doesn't come on. I had an issue with mine recently where the pump was being cycled on and off and I once nearly went throug a stop junction as it didn't brake at all. The remedy....well I have been working my round the sensors and getting them replaced. The ABS motor hadn't failed but the sensors were driving it nuts. Change the sensors first. My car is 12 yrs old so its expected things like this need changing

Thanks guys.....PM sent Antera309. Considering options and might take you up on the offer of a code reading. Sounds like a seance Cheers Rip.

Okay usual topic, my ABS light is now permanently on and I need to know what that might mean. Anyone wishing to do a quick fault code check for a nominal sum and a beer? Its gotta be cheaper than buying the thing. Don't know how much a garage would charge. Its for a 95 Golf VR6 with the later ODB connection type. should work with HEX-COM+CAN or KEY-USB or KEY-COM connection. I accept that it might point to ECU but need to know the fault codes before I take it to a garage to fix. Rip

I have had several windows issues like this, one involves taking off the door card and unbolting the window carrier assembly from the mounting plates and the other involves wiggling the wires in the rubber wire protector between the car door and the car body. Its unlikely to be the motor as these are pretty reliable. In the first case its possible to jam the window closed and you need to release the tension in the winding mechanism. The problem with that is it usually happens again and you end up having to buy a new winder mechanism. Its also possible that the multi pin connector that fits ont

Now thats encouraging...at least mine doesn't leak goes well and stops fine.

177k...wondering how long it can go on....

You know I fancy doing a garage sale of the running car, all bits for sale....bring your spanners lol....I am still unsure what to do. At the end of the day the car runs fine its really the petrol consumption. Perhaps I could extend its life with an LPG conversion?

I have had my green VR6 (M - pre colour coding) for over 6 years now and am wondering about selling it. No this isn't going in the for sale section yet. I use it every weekday and have clocked up many miles and have been through many trials and tribulations with it, some good, some bad. The problem for me now is would anyone buy it? It's not pristine, but I would describe it as good. Its had a fair amount of tuning, AMD chip, big valve head, schrick VSR, etc etc. It has a few niggly things that either don't work or would need to be fixed if it was for sale or would need to be factored into the

Its a shot in the dark but mine was the same. Don't laugh... but I discovered that if you waggle the cables in the rubber door sleeve/hose on the passenger rear door it began to work. It would appear that there is some connection between the last window that closes and the sun roof. I think its a dodgy wire in that part of the circuit. I can't be arsed to take the door card off to find out but just waggle the wires when it fails. Sounds wierd I know.

I love the big extra spread of power on my Golf3 with the schrick. It just where I need it most for my type of driving with slightly increased torque at the low end but a BIG increase between about 2750 and 4000 where the switch over occurs. I guess I got an increase of about 20BHP through the range with a massive hike in torque or about 40ftlb in the mid range. For most average driving thats where you need it. Peak torque in top equates to about 80mph so it means effortless cruising on motorways. One thing though, before I had the top end rebuild and cam chains done I could notice the inlet f

Well it wasn't the cable....I had to take the unti apart and have a look at the inner workings. The transport mechism/clamping bits had got jammed. It would appear that a severe jolt had slightly bent something so that it wouldn't move the discs in and out. A screw driver and some additional copperslip on relevant parts sorted it. However it won't play the 10th CD. So it works but I think 10yrs old has seen a good life and its time for new one. Roll on Christmas Although I can see a quick trip to Ebay coming up.

I like pictures.....and yes I can 'feel the force' too.

Let me look at my rolling road graphs when I had mine done. Will try to post at the weekend with a pcture if poss.

Unfortunately already tried that....beginning to think its the cable now....going to check this weekend more thouroughly. Thanks.