SHARKY

Oh, and I know it'd fail the MOT without the light... I couldn't do that - I need to get these problems sorted as I'm looking at selling... My MOT is not for another 11 months Need to get a more practical car - looonnnggggg story!! It was just a joke...

Hi guys, The codes were read at my mate's garage with his code reader - not sure exactly what it was. Not a vagcom, but one that he uses for all cars. It's not been read when the light is actually on because it's an imtermittant problem. That's why we changed the rear sensor twice - the machine said it was an intermittant fault on it. (the second change was cos the sensor was faulty). I think I might have a loose wire somewhere with regards to the ABS, or a break in the wire. Not sure excactly how to find THAT without ripping the car apart. Going to actually change the ABS light unit itsel

Had the ECU and all codes read and there'a no faults detected. Bulb problem ??? As in - not needed

All the sensors have been checked recently when it was in for MOT. They're solid and they are seated in the correct place. There are no faults - there never is - which is really weird. :S That's why I think it's a loose wire or something. Had the offside rear sensor changed twice as it said it was faulty. the problem went but now the light is on again. When read it says no fault. Stoopid ABS. I preferred the days when you just skidded!!! Gonna have a look at the brake fluid cap when I get home and I guess when it's dry I'll check the sensors AGAIN! 8o|

My ABS light is on too, but I thought it was unrelated. It's been read and there's no probs with that. I think my ABS problem is a loose wire somewhere - it comes on when i go over a bump in the road. When the front end goes over a speed bump the light comes on... Sooo much fun owning a VR!

Thanx for the reply.. I'll check the cap later - if it EVER stops raining in Bolton!!! Didn't think of that!

Hi guys... This may sound like a stoopid question, but is the handbrake light used as an indicator for any other system on the car? I know it comes on when you first put the ignition on, but recently mines started coming on whilst driving. IT flickers a bit then comes on. Sometimes it's on solid. I've not looked at the switch yet, so it's probably just that or a short in the wiring, but I thought I'd ask... Anyone any ideas?

Forgot to mention mines an OBD2 engine - don't know if that would help...

OK guys... I've changed the throttle and it's still doing it!!! GRR :@ Going to try to get a fuel relay, but I can't see it being that if it starts from cold. Surely it would suffer more when starting from cold or rather, would do it all the time?? The stupid thing is it's never failed to start!!! I don't want it to get to a point where something HAS to fail to find it - that could be expensive! Is there any other ideas out there that could possibly help... Coil pack? MAF (although no faults recorded!)... The battery is less than six months old and is cranking the engine fine as is the starter

Cheers, I'll have a look and see if I can get one for tomorrow

I've cleaned the throttle body out last week - spent ages on it - made sure there was no build up of carbon or oil... Think I'll try the throttle swap, and if that cures it I'll have a go at swapping the position sensor form one to the other - the one on the car at the moment is mirror polished on the INSIDE... I thought about the fuel pump relay and also the temp sensors but there's no faults... Might have a go with the fuel pump relay - I'm guessing they're only a tenner or so, just need to work out which one it is! lol

Thanx for the reply Ben, not sure mine is the starter motor though - it's almost new!! I guess there's a chance it could be faulty, but I'd assume it'd be worse from cold not warm. It's a really funny way that it starts - the motor is spinning from the starter motor fine, just seems to be a little starved of fuel or something, but the fuel pressure is fine - had that checked when I had the fuel pump changed and it's fine. No problems with the coil pack or leads or plugs.... :S I'm going to change the throttle body tomorrow to see if that's it, thought it could possibly be a faulty control uni

Hi Guys, I've got a really strange problem when starting my car. I'll try my best to explain it. When I come to the car first thing in the morning (it's parked on the street) it starts no problems. I drive about 6 miles to work and it takes about 20 minutes depending on traffic. Right, here's the wierd thing. When I come back to my car either at lunch time or to go home, it has trouble starting. When I first start my car in the morning, the revs jump to about 1200 then settle down to normal tickover (about 680 - 700). When I start my car after it's been used they struggle to get up to tick ove

MIne's also doing this - very annoying :@ I've had mine read and it said intermittant fault on rear sensor. So it's been changed and it's still doing it - same sensor?? I've had it changed out again as a faulty unit and - yes you guessed it - it's still there! The cages for the ABS are new on the rear so it can't be a dodgy one of those. Could this be a broken wire? An ecu fault on the ABS (I'd assume this would show)? Where is the ABS ECU? Soooo annoying!!!!! Any advice would be great guys...

Right guys - I found my problem - and fixed it. Wooooohoooo! Basically, after removing the headlining and sitting in the car whilst raining (and looking like a nutta) and getting people to hose the car down whilst I was in it I found the problem. The drain hoses that come from the tray had moved!! Not come off - just moved!! I think when I had it resprayed and the moved the drains - they pulled them back out a little too hard. They hadn't come off - they'd just moved a touch. The ends of the drains (at the tray end) are rubber, but a little more stiff than you'd expect and had taken the shape