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RBPE

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Everything posted by RBPE

  1. Early 24V's inlet cam timing only, later ones inlet and exhaust cam timing, sensor accordingly!
  2. I'd say that set up is more for 4 cylinder engines really. The VR's produce a lot of heat on the second bank due to the design, take a bit of compensation tuning, as such, although the heat can help with higher gas speeds, it can also obviously be a bane (we all know cold, dense air makes power, heat destroys components etc). That set up uses the larger GT35 side turbine, so it is set up for decent gas flow at the expense of speed over a 30, so it should make this hot gas a bit cooler then as the flow would be slower, kind of what we want, but then it is somewhat strangulated with t
  3. Garrett have changed their sales so it's all compressor side and buy what turbine side you want for it, GTX will obviously be more money than GT with the changes, so first point is budget! If you can GTX over GTR or GTW then may as well. All will get you there, spool will depend on turbine side a/r, usual for road is probably about 0.82, some go for 0.63a/r but they give good low down but can choke a bit up top, prob better for a 400hp set up or so. Couple hundred rpm's difference on the GT30 turbine over 35 using same a/r good around the 500+hp mark which is what you are aiming fo
  4. RBPE

    DIY Tuning

    Well, here's some stuff about what is in the ecu's I did years ago; mk4/all; https://app.box.com/s/tyfuvf2fn6he89g9ybhiv1d77a01ruh8 https://app.box.com/s/4e4g9nbzdtpzkj92j6rb0f5y0u2pvkqz https://app.box.com/s/0ggm1g0ttifchc34geo1bbbl94e9k7hp https://app.box.com/s/33ql0gke9kytsxrwtq4yasr8va5z7y05 https://app.box.com/s/5zlevqu9bhus7i5zf63lh1nvcx38e0gq mk5; https://app.box.com/s/njdjnznw2rv3zl0l7i7f9x150rbytan3
  5. The tuner you're using should go through all of this for you, no-one else, as it can depend on how it is being tuned, how good they are, whether or not they are using someone else's file which will need their specific products used. If they are using a promaf tune for example, then it'll have to use that unless changed, same with the injectors. The main re-seller file I have seen is set up for about 470hp using stock maf though fyi.
  6. Virtually all of the pro turbo tunes use an underscaled maf map to handle the boost so will depend on the tune, stock maf can see 450hp+ so no need to upgrade until you reach these limit's logging the data. 630's can have linearisation problems over time, you're better off with Bosch EV's though but again, depends on the tune and how they've been set up or if you buy a generic one or get a custom tune.
  7. The older stuff is Motronic - usually M2, 3 or 5 whereas the newer 24V stuff uses ME7.1.1. - 3rd post down explains the differences; Also, there are single VVT engines like the AUE and dual VVT like the BDE so ecu's have all the exhaust cam controls missing on the earlier ones so use the right mk4 24v ecu otherwise more work/DTC's to code out. I've not done it myself but it'd probably be easier using MAF/Injectors/pedal box anything else which is noted in the above thread really, from the mk4 and code out any DTC's for parts you don;t have attached.
  8. There's a partial definition file for the US BDF here I did quickly, should help you do some mk4 stuff at least if you want to define your own sticking it into winols demo and making a Tunerpro file. Various bit's and bobs, probably best links on the net for making your own files for mk4 though at the moment; http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=10385.0 Some English def's ect, ran the files through disassemblers and such programs if you need asm code let us know. Should help if you've been hunting down DAMOS packs and data isn't lining up right!
  9. Air filter + exhaust (5-10hp) + remap (add 10hp) - +cams (+10hp) - roughly 20-30hp gain, can be a bit more or less depending on freshness/efficiency of your engine/set up. After that it tends to get more expensive, Schrick inlet manifold, port and polished head, overbore with higher compression pistons, big valve head etc - talking thousands for that so most tend to go FI instead. You want a cheap faster car, look at reducing weight, even wheels/brakes can make a difference not to mention the heavy stock seats
  10. Just did a couple of quick ones;
  11. Also k16 far too small really, or are you doing a twin turbo?
  12. Work out the maths on the pulley size/speeds and, unless there's a s/c kit/similar car that uses these Eatons or it works out, get some custom pulleys made up so befriend someone with a 5 axis cnc, need belt/s obviously which might have to be custom made, injectors and custom tune along with obligatory custom air pipes...... probably forgetting something!
  13. Compressor racing's only got the 16cm in at the mo, make sure whichever you buy is a proper one if you can, stickers look like this on them; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Holset-HX35-600bhp-water-cooled-twin-scroll-T3-turbo-Not-Garrett-GT35-S300-/262658384111?hash=item3d27a8e0ef:g:HtwAAOSwvzRXzDbq This has a 12 on it? Ad looks a bit hmm though! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Holset-Turbocharger-Hx35w-/152273948210?hash=item23743c0e32:g:czAAAOSw8w1X-5Ml MMMM Billet! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-2002-DODGE-RAM-5-9-24V-CUMMINS-DIESEL-HOLSET-TURBO-HX3
  14. It's generally assumed that; 17cm - 1a/r So to work out others; 16cm - (16/17) - 0.94ar 14cm - 0.82ar and so on So, the 16cm would be like a 0.95ar Garrett for example, so more aimed at higher boost/hp set ups really on the 6 pots, probably still boost mid 3000's at lower boost. Other things to think about too - are you going to use a proper twin scroll tubular manifold to slave the gasses, that would obviously help spool, or if you're running low boost or talking about low air/blade speeds, is the turbulent air from the divide going to be something of a hindran
  15. Most VR owners I have dealt with use the HY or HX35 turbo's, the 40's might be a bit big for just 400hp.
  16. They can handle low boost or high - good all rounder for these engines, if you see figures for like, 350hp/400hp max, then that's probably a reference to the fact that they are designed for diesels and their lower power figures, on petrol, a H1C can do about 640hp, HX40 can do 700hp. There can be a wide range of housings for the turbine side though which can affect spool. Compressor map;
  17. Actually, think it's from here (noticed name change - same thread I think);
  18. Awesome turbo's, sorting out some supplies for them. Not used that one myself but know a few owners who love the 35/40's, some 12v owners. 16cm is probably about 0.95ar or so, you using a modified hybrid turbine or stock twin scroll? Get your fuelling big enough and check the wg spring isn't some 30psi+ one if you're not ready for it! Diesel turbo's don't forget so high psi. As an idea of spool on these 700hp turbo's;
  19. Hi, welcome, can't beat a nice 4 mo, lot of car for little outlay! Start saving for a turbo now as well, you'll eventually want one being an ex biker and the fatty you're about to buy!
  20. It needn't cost that much for a turbo set up really if you can do work yourself, I reckon I could do a turbo conversion on my own car for £2-2.5k using a good new turbo and clutch upgrade, in fact I'm thinking about developing something similar soon. If you factor in what it costs people usually for something like an exhaust system and remap then the £600 someone would pay for that alone seems to put things into perspective. Main point is what you are able to do yourself really in negating costs! If you want to get about mapping it yourself, get a cheap ebay MPPS V16 wi
  21. P.S. I can't wait till carbon nanotube technology comes into play in the aftermarket scene!
  22. Material spec and manufacturing processes can vary massively and a lot of the time you have to do a lot of deep research into the oem suppliers manufacturing processes to get the in's and out's - everything else is hear say really! In researching some aftermarket companies they had a lot of info about their various "new tempering techniques" and slight alloy changes that offer greater resilience for x, y or z in application with test results. Prime example was one company offering their new hybrid alloy for pistons - they had test data for 4032 and 2618 alloys against their's and it was intere
  23. A bit of extra lube is always good! I can't see why a decent aftermarket tuner like Schimmel wouldn't do their homework in part development, probably a lot better than oem! Not sure why oem has such a high regard either, when I researched the material specifications VAG used for engine parts in manufacturing, it was your typical cheap ass factory vehicles way! Engineer's might want to use top spec material but the money men get involved, spec the preferred material down for cost to the point it just about does the job it is intended for and then use that material/forgings etc acros
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