Jump to content

RBPE

Members
  • Content count

    533
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    25

Everything posted by RBPE

  1. Vr6 turbo

    Why use MSnS? You planning on tuning it yourself afterwards and don't want to use oem ecu? It's NA from stock so no boost controls and the speed density aspects are probably a little different than most are used to on aftermarket stuff on the Motronic (GGDSAS/EFGE).
  2. Vr6 turbo

    What do you want to know? Most aspects have been covered on the forum so have a look through beforehand then ask away on more specific things!
  3. Main bearing for FI

    The US seems to have catered for a lot - so good market there, ironic given the lack of good 24v 4wd options we EU/UK (as below) enjoy! But;; https://store.034motorsport.com/main-bearing-set-coated-vw-vr6.html https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_IV--VR6_12v/Engine/Mechanical/Connecting_Rod/Bearing/ Many EU/UK (cause we're not the same now ), ones can supply such parts (dying market) - but the money's in more modern models, few options either way in EU, or domestic VAG specialists will offer the same as EU re-sellers but it's more modern machines which pro's cater for as that's where the money is, still options - eg; https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/products/engine-parts/engine-block/bearings/?p=2 Hope that helps!
  4. Follow the link I put up in the thread below, enter your model details and you'll see what parts are on your car;
  5. Blue smoke

    It's usually some high mileage hardware wear and tear stuff like you've mentioned - but did you have it remapped after upgrading the cams? I'd keep an eye on all the oil aspects on older vehicles, had dodgy oil pickups/blockages etc destroy engines, even forged ones! Did you do anything with the bottom end?
  6. P1151 code and white smoke on idle

    Dodgy 02 read due to the leak by the sound of it - need to find and fix and code "should" go away. http://www.oemepc.com/vw/parts_lst/markt/RDW/modell/GOLF/year/2002/hg/1/catalog/vw/drive_standart/266/lang/e
  7. Performance filter or standard airbox???

    You can get a few hp with better airflow easily enough, ideally you want to tweak the tune any time you change either air or fuel although there are some good adaptations in the ecu's
  8. Performance filter or standard airbox???

    More air would mean it running leaner, could be a leak somewhere or adaptions going wild over-compensating - older mafs can hate turbulent air - need straight piping sometimes at maf.
  9. There's a lot less interaction on the forums nowadays, not just this one - is everyone just facetubin' it nowadays or does that mean the mods have covered all technical Q's now? Just wondering what's changed in recent years?
  10. Is there anybody out there?

    1988 I started out in VAG tuning, internet wasn't even invented back then! 2008 was when I signed up here on a last profile, 2011 this one, there were a few years of lurking before then! What got me into VR's was a black mk2 12v on the cover of either PVW or Golf+ - was before the 1.8T came out so that long ago! Amazing to see how far the aftermarket scene has come and the level of tech info available compared to the 90's! The old skool stuff like mk1-3 are getting a bit thin on the ground now like you say, you couldn't give that stuff away back in the day!
  11. list of cars that use the vr6 engine

    Holy thread resurrection Batman! Most of the ecu codes of the VAG 24v's just to add to this;
  12. Smoke after engine rebuild

    What routine are you following for bedding in? Apart from that the usual is to check the working of parts added for running, wiring etc, basically all sensors, lines and so on.
  13. T4

    No, all are welcome, just generally kept to VR related subjects. I'm sure lot's of people can help with anything, lot's of technical Q's already covered in many threads over the years if you have a search 1st.
  14. V6 4MO 24V BDE Tuning

    Not sure if it was the BDF from the thread link above but just dug out some locations for the US lot; Check the cw but looks okay; Main locations for the BBSAWE maps; Your rpm limits will generally show up as B0 68, of which there can be loads, look at the spacing between them to narrow it down in your hex editor or most should show up in these locations as there's not a massive amount of data stacking changes twin vvt to twin vvt files;
  15. V6 4MO 24V BDE Tuning

    I'm building some new Tunerpro files and want you to check some things if you're interested. Firstly, this is just a few quick maps I've picked out to check and refresh myself on the system as it has been a while, I can add more obv. if there's interest. I use Win7 32 bit on all my ecu tuning stuff as it seems the most compatible so if you check this then what system are you running? Are you experiencing any bugs like T Pro crashing (it does from time to time on mine so make sure you save things as you go along/tune if we develop this thread). Is the data showing up okay? You can download tunerpro on the link below. There's a free version and a free version which comes up with a register bit at the beginning for donations - I'm using that one as I expect to donate if I end up doing lots on it with this. It's Tunerpro RT and you can freely use it, you just have to wait until the register bit at the beginning ends after 10 seconds, then press continue. This is basically a free bit of software that you can use to tune your car which we can go into detail later on if the thread picks up. So download Tuner Pro here; http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm Then download this rar file at the link below - this contains a BDE binary file, one found on the net 022906032BG - which is basically the data of your maps that needs defining, then there's the basic xdf I just did with a few maps in it to get things going; https://app.box.com/s/7kllewx5gf654hdfilfyegk7kmflnugh So, once you've downloaded and set up T Pro, you open a new bin (import the bin) in the menu and add the one in the rar file. Once you've done that you add the xdf (I think you import them and remember where the files are or if Tunerpro sets a file up for your ecu's/revisions just create a file in there - I forget now as I set mine up ages ago but you'll pick it up!). Once you've done that then you should have a few maps defined and the values as shown in the pics in the red boxes - let me know if it is coming okay on yours and if not what system you are using, what values etc If they are showing up like that then you are good to go in future as I build and add more xdf files. I may sell the more detailed ones and things like turbo base files etc but I'll stick up plenty of info in due course if people are interested? There's a few good bits of info online already, to save you trawling through forums then these 2 are good basics to start to learn tuning, the acronyms though can be different to what are in the ME7.1.1. files but the principles for the most part are the same - I'll likely put up these basics for free anyway. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5935270-UnOfficial-Eurodyne-Maestro-Tuning-Handbook https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning
  16. V6 4MO 24V BDE Tuning

    p.s. This includes BDF, major offsets with the early single VVT stuff like AUE which can be a pain to define comparatively and I lost the early ones I did on dodgy hard-drive and haven't done much since, but if I have time I'll have a quick look if you put a link to your oem file for me
  17. V6 4MO 24V BDE Tuning

    I did this quickly some time ago off an R32 file, I think it should be pretty much spot on but I'm reversing at the mo so time will tell. Seems to match up with mininuts file post but if not, pipe up and I'll try and dig out any address changes for you! Based on this post to read up on, can elaborate as required as/when needed if your addresses are off etc; http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=7174.0title= Or I've got this full read to work off to do a better xdf/FI tuning etc if you want to get the file and are looking at long term?; http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=17018.0title=
  18. What does all those turbo numbers mean?

    Some info in here at a quick look! http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_127.PDF
  19. What does all those turbo numbers mean?

    Just quick links, not sure what data's available but a push in the right direction I hope; http://www.vaglinks.com/vaglinks_com/Docs/SSP/VWUSA.COM_SSP_871003_Wiring_Harness_Repair.pdf http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/index2_eng.php
  20. Dual O2 sensors to single, how?

    You need to make about 2-300 changes in the ecu to have them running right without boost sensor, not an easy job! You need to do ignition, fuel (oem injectors pretty small for any boost but you can do all the 3/4 bar changes, return/returnless etc), fuel mass, flight time mani dep, throttle angle, air mass, torque, exh temp modelling.... list goes on and that doesn't include the set up/ecu configuration changes depending on what parts you're using - oh and dsg if your using that.
  21. Inlet maifold??

    Peak torque is shifted higher up on FI engines plus you have the forcing of air so short runners okay for that, but unless you're going for a very high revving engine (not really the best engine to do that on being undersquare tbh), then you'll be better keeping the stock manifold for more low end torque - depends on your goals though I suppose!
  22. Can't believe there isn't a "which turbo?" thread as a sticky. As I'm always asked this by builders and as it always crops up here I will give my 2p's worth! . First of all, this is just a basic guide for VR/R specific "what turbo's?", specific info on turbo speccing I would suggest reading things like this; https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/basic and going through all their guides plus many more threads on the net. This is probably for noobs then who don't want to learn that! I would estimate that around 90% of owners that come to me are usually looking for around the 400-450hp mark. Should you get a turbo that flows that? No! Technically speaking, say a V6 4Motion runs 200lb/ft of torque, then a highly efficient V6, 100% efficient - running a bar of boost - i.e. you have compressed the ambient air - outside air - to double it's original density - ambient pressure which is 14.7 psi, pounds per square inch or 1013mbar is what you feel every day just walking about - is compressed by the turbo - so would run 400lb/ft or 400hp thoretically at double the stock ambient pressure.. Although it would show 1 bar of boost on your gauge, you have essentially taken normal air - a density of 14.7 psi, and squashed it to half it's size, subsequently making a square inch twice as dense - or 29.4psi absolute pressure - i.e 14.7+14.7. That is basically what a turbo does - compresses air! So, theoretically speaking, if you double the air density, you're doubling the output - 400lb/ft in that example. However, there are many factors as to why your car doesn't achieve that! Efficiency is the reason. There are a number of things which make your car less efficient. Most of you know that the air has to go into a filter, down pipework, maybe through an air cooler and into the inlet manifold before entering the engine and as such, losses will occur as the air has to battle these restrictions - therefore causing losses or making it less efficient than is ideal. See the fluid dynamics link below. The turbo itself has it's own efficiency islands too - the "compressor map" as it were and being an air pump can also suffer efficiency losses if not specced correctly/not operating at it's most efficient. The turbine side of the turbo can also have profound differences on things like spool, but if you want to know more specifics, take a look at the links above and below. Anyway, due to the above factors to consider in terms of "what hp of turbo?", it is why I always say "get a turbo of at least 500hp!" - do some basic math for R32 differences then - 3.2/2.8 x 500 = 571hp as a rough guide. There is more to it, for example many owners report higher flowing turbo's with the same turbine ar ratio are very, very similar in feel - i.e. the GT30 v GT35R, seem to have very little in terms of spool difference if the ar ratio is the same - i.e. both 0.82 T3.. Lot's of variables in tuning though - it's always a balancing act for end results! Which actual turbo's then!!!!!!!!!!! I hear you say? Well, the proven ones are usually the Garrett and Borg-Warner units. You can get cheaper versions, like the B-W S or Garrett T versions but they are rarely chosen. Why? The turbine side of the B-W S can be large - see Holset info below - or the T series aren't as readily available here in the UK although the journal and ball bearing T series are great budget or relatively budget versions which are often enjoyed by those in other markets like the US. In the UK, possibly EU at least, the best, readily available options are the Garrett GT/GTX and Borg-Warner EFR turbo's - all very advanced and highly proven. You'll be looking at a minimum of £1k+ most likely though for these but they are usually considered the best. So let's briefly look at the turbine ar rato of these turbo's: 0.63ar/equiv - good low end/spool due to high air velocity at low volumes but can ultimately choke up top - prob best for 4 cyl - ultimate air flow being the problem! 0.82/0.83 ar equiv - preferred choice for road use, a bar of boost at roughly 3500rpms, good flow bottom to top - can do 600hp too! 1+ ar - good for hp chasers, weekend toys etc, big top end but not always favoured for daily's due to poorer gas dynamics at low loads. Air speed velocity can help at low loads, a smaller orifice will have x amount of air pass through it quicker than a larger one but too high mach numbers up top are less ideal as they can introduce turbulent flow - Google laminar flow. The preferred turbo's mentioned have both T3 ad T4 flanges so these air speeds/traits should be thought about. same single or twin scroll turbo. Almost every owner I have spoken to usually opts for a GT35R T3 0.82 and they have always been happy, but some prefer a little more lag, whether that's the driving style or drivetrain protection, so sometimes big ar ratio's and T4 flanges are chosen. Outside of these variants then let's see; Holset are also a favorite of owners with a few I know enjoying them! These are commercial, can be tons about but are usually used on big diesels, as such, check turbine side as they can be HUGE, good scrap yard finds though and cheap if you can get a supplier of them! I know compressor racing on ebay does them now and again and the turbine is specced/changed for petrol led build's with happy buyers - maybe worth a look? Being workhorses on high temp diesels they tend to be bulletproof. There is also a number of other options - some decent JDM turbo's on the bay, thrust journal bearing mind you in terms of cost to think about comparatively, but well proven in such circles - just remember though that with import duties on any outside UK/EU you're looking at x 1.25 the cost of item plus postage to your door if not bought within UK/EU. Some nice billet items there and a bit cheaper so worth a look, but factor in these additional duties if you get quotes from domestic suppliers and their turbo's. It could be a case of them being nearly the same cost as a dual ball bearing turbo for example! Precision Turbo's can also be found on the bay, mainly JDM usage here in the UK but many use in the States, not really au fait with them but lot's of big power builds read about - more expensive for me to buy them than the major manufacturers above but supposedly well proven. Both journal and ball bearing options for broad cost variations and spec turbines as above. Ebay cheapies - you'd be surprised what I can get these for in bulk! Different QC standards I would presume so do some homework - have a 20vt friend who was looking for a 300hp turbo - suggested a T series due to funds and around 12-14 months later he's just bought a BW billet KO4 as his 5th turbo and all others ebay spesh's that didn't hold up! Things like boost levels, heat levels etc all make a difference and his anti-lag most certainly didn't help! The thing I have learned from manufacturing techniques is that material specifications matter! Therefore, "you pay for what you get!" rings true. Very sensible boost/stresses - these cheapies seem to hold up quite well at times according to some owners, if not - well, read above! So, summary; "You pay for what you get" - compressors spinning at hundreds of thousands of revs, 1000 degree exhaust temps etc - materials and manufacturing processes matter then! Oh - re: the stories about some manufacturers now working abroad and the turbo's now made "cheaply" - QC standards can be of an international standard and I would be surprised if a company that has spent heavily on R&D would suddenly tarnish their reps by using inferior materials/QC standards! Maybe cheaper labour outsourcing, but can't see where named/proven brands qualty would drop with that tbh. GT35R most popular turbo chosen by owners for their daily's by far in my experience - 0.82AR T3 - 400-600hp well proven. EFR also top spec - keep compressor/turbine similar to above, similar results Various mid range turbo's, bit of shopping to do, some decent options mentioned - factor in taxes/duty compared with domestic suppliers, depends on your country/laws I suppose Cheap generic - your risk, material, usage etc - can make big differences, you do pay for what you get in this area though! Some have worked, most haven't in my exp - I would say if you're struggling and on a budget, keep boost very low and not too many heat cycles until you can afford a more expensive one. T3/T4 etc flange, turbines - basic guide as above. *** Note: You may also want to factor in your tune, some can be very turbo & fuel specific, some pay more for custom work in this area but that 440cc tune may not be ideal for your GTX42! Just a thought! ;-) *** Anyway, my 2p from my experience, hope it helps you choose and hope it helps the mods that pull their hair out for being asked this question time and time again!
  23. Dual O2 sensors to single, how?

    Yes, generally made with lots of other mods as well just for normal fuel, na to fi is about the hardest thing you can do on Motronic, either on a flash based tune or the mods needed inc. custom coding and parts. There are a few ways you can go about it, best bet is to learn the basics on the Function Sheets online, things like BGSRM, BGRLP, BGAGR etc which can all have an influence on the relative charge, load, rpm's etc which is what you need to do. I've put up plenty of links to the various aspects but it can get quite complicated and depends on what you can do and how you go about it. I'll try and put up a basic overview to help those going through the 2000 page docs!
  24. Help: Schrick vs sp short runner ; vr6t

    Variable geometry (Schrick) is generally better than fixed as it is designed to operate more efficiently more often (i.e. various rpm's), you just have to think about turbo placement and manifolds where the inlet tract is/the packaging constraints, plus heat soak etc https://www.researchgate.net/publication/311615696_Effect_of_Variable_Length_Intake_Manifold_on_Performance_of_IC_Engine
×