RBPE
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Everything posted by RBPE
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Sounds good, not hanging about then? Nice reliable base to build from.
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Cheers Cabbs. Times the flow rate by 10 to get a rough estimate of max hp rates here - it's actually more like times by 9-11 which depends on the efficiency of your set up but use as a guide. EDIT; Oldy ref!
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Let us know if you want a specific one developed further, can do the fire one for the Facebook page better, but may take a while with a larger vector.
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As requested;
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It's these dudes - think the first one is their new 1000hp development and the second their 850hp kit. http://www.irozmotorsport.com/iroz-motorsport-2-5tfsi-ims500-1000-turbo-kits/
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p.s. some info to learn; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_dynamics https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_turbine https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_compressor http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/AR%20turbo%20ratio%20explained.html
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Can't believe there isn't a "which turbo?" thread as a sticky. As I'm always asked this by builders and as it always crops up here I will give my 2p's worth! . First of all, this is just a basic guide for VR/R specific "what turbo's?", specific info on turbo speccing I would suggest reading things like this; https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/basic and going through all their guides plus many more threads on the net. This is probably for noobs then who don't want to learn that! I would estimate that around 90% of owners that come to me are usually looking for around
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Read the compound charged thread - may not be good if the whole charger, pulley, goals, aspect is out of sync. Otherwise the centri charger is like a turbo anyway so revs v work applicable - 10 psi quite a bit for a super, costs as much as a good turbo set up pretty much so.......go turbo! Roots = low end v pulley/speed of charger/air pump etc so factor into sc speed and what u want, low end goals may not be up to scratch if you factor them into the equation! Good head mods, inlet mani mods, cams, turbo spec etc......you can have an awesome 450-500hp set up, with little lag - not quite s
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If you're using a C2 or UM tune then surely you don't need a mapper as it is a plug and play oem modification if you plumb in the system changes like brake booster etc? And if you are not using a tune that has been developed like that, plus your overspecced forged engine and good turbo, then I wouldn't use either 440's or 630's as they are about twice as slow as some of the ones you can use. You may have to modify the fitments of them but there are better ones like the 5-0 Motorsport ones we use or ID's? As for the intake manifold - I am assuming this to be a mk3 VR6? We never got the mk4
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Custom Black Ops spec or Blue Knight's because they are very fast and have good spray pattern but most choose cheaper ones like you've mentioned. A lot of work is done to modify the stock ecu so most of the time you'll likely be limited to what the mapper uses or has done unless you want to spend more on a custom tune? Judging by some of the pro tunes I have looked at, idle issues are a result of poor mapping, for example on one 500 euro tune the ignition closing times were done to 480rpm and then from 2000rpm onwards, few of those changes in the ecu and it was no wonder his idle was pant
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Unlike centrifugal superchargers the roots type (Eatons) are like air pumps as opposed to compressors, as such, they give very good low down torque through minor throttle openings/low revs/flow rates etc, whereas the centri's tend to act similar to turbo's where the flow increases as the revs do. VW wanted to give the customer power and torque throughout the rev range and as such, the Eaton/Roots types are very good at these low ranges. The idea was to give low end from them until the turbo's turbine side was up to speed for instant driver demand (i.e. instant torque/power we want when we
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Coupla' nice vids I stumbled upon!
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p.s. I think Jeff what's his name Atwood is it, over at Vortex - think he works for UM in US or one of the big companies there - has many years on these engines and he did 13psi bone stock but there are very, very few people that know as much about them as him as a guide.
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Petrol turbo cars have lower compression which reduces knock/detonation, the higher the compression ratio the more likely you'll get knock as a basic guide, although there is efficiency/power to be had at higher compressions, depends where knock limit is. Diesel engines are not petrol ether, they run very high compression ratio's comparatively. As I said though, you can get >500hp on a stock engine - spacer/ARP included though and some have taken it to 700hp but you HAVE to sort knock out by lowering compression with a spacer plate at least and hardware in the critically stressed areas
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Great! There's one done in a mk4 somewhere on Youtube where he's hanging out the window doing it!
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It's okay, in many respects it's right, reciprocating masses denote the drivetrain so a crankshaft could be considered that too. However, generally if I was asking on such forums I would say that drivetrain is usually the clutch, driveshafts etc and we say "bottom end" to mean the pistons, rods, crank etc in the engine. Stock engine you probably don't really want to get too far beyond 300hp before you lower compression. ARP hardware and a spacer/decompression plate can be used if on a budget. High hp (>500hp) can be had but it's a risk, if you can afford it, rods and pistons really as
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Functional logic is simple - everything in the ecu has to be calculated, as such, it is always math! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Functional_verification https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Functional_completeness https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Logic_gate https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boolean_function
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I'm as fallible as the next guy sunshine but I will admit it! I have 28 years of car building and about 5 years of hacking the ME7.1.1. ecus to bits to fall back on so I do know a few things but I'll admit I still need to educate myself and always will! Ignore the bank specific readings aspects, I was merely trying to put across the point of something might change in the hardware that causes the software to change it's logic and therefore cannot re-adapt back afterwards and so even if you revert back it still doesn't work correctly! That and budding DIY tuners crave these tings! Need
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No - stock in that sense, basically adding your turbo so lots of change - means lowering compression - i.e. spacer/decompression plate or pistons to bring it down from 10.5:1 to the 9.0:1 or so you if you want to avoid knock under boost. Pistons best way, spacer if you can't afford pistons. This is knock, seeing as your 1st language isn't English then I hope it helps; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking Head work, like cams, can have a benefit especially under boost, but no need to go crazy with them, timing of naturally aspirated engines - those with no turbo or sup
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No worries sunshine, although I think you're underestimating the task at hand though! Who's done it before with these, any links? First and foremost, Megasquirt or any aftermarket system for that matter has absolutely no control whatsoever over an electro-magnetic clutch system and would somewhat need to be implemented into the functional logic of how the systems operate, with the ecu being modified accordingly. A difficult task but not impossible but needs a fair bit of custom work to operate well! That tiny supercharger is also going to be overwhelmed at any decent air flow being t
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As Dave said, sort of - "drivetrain" denotes the driving parts in English - your clutch and gearbox so to speak but I assume you mean engine. Nothing is really needed for the head except possibly cams for better VVT control/spool with timing. Over 1100hp has been had with a stock head so unnecessary really! This one to be exact so save money there in my opinion! This car here made over 1000ps at 6850rpm on the dyno so crazy rev limits are usually to do with gears/speed only - no more power is really had at high rev limits due to engine design - you may want to change to hea
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Doing a far more detailed DIY remapping thread for these motor's so lot's more tech to come soon hopefully when I get the time. Huge variances with a "remap" though, I've spent, as a conservative estimate, over 5000 hours on the V6/R32 ecus alone and the more I learn, the less "tuners" can explain to me when I ask them, or at least 99% of them, some good money in re-seller tunes it seems but I wanted to know how to put a turbo tune on a V6 4 mo and you end up realising these things! Amazes me how much money some people earn through such things without knowing them though I must say!
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I think you misunderstood. The ME ecus take their inputs from 02, Pedal position, Eng coolant temp, air temp and cam/crank position sensors so if any of them are defective it causes all sorts of problems throughout the ecu as many maps are interconnected. Like you said, could very well be a hardware problem like a leak or those sensors, usually is, those are all what ultimately need checking if your car's running badly. What I was getting at is when you go NA to FI on these there's a fair bit of work involved in the ecu. you need to redefine the axis of maps, add boost/PID controls, chang
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Hmm, not sure that you want to do that - seems like a bad mix! I take it given they are so small that you are feeding the turbo via the supercharger? In which case how are you going to develop the electro-magnet to disengage the supercharger so it doesn't over spin at high revs or have you worked that out with the pulley system? Not that such a supercharger is any good for the 2.8 anyway as it's too small. When I worked out these engines being compounded supercharged to turbo many years ago I think I came up with an Eaton M62 disengaged via e-m feeding something like a GTX42 - pretty
