RBPE
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Everything posted by RBPE
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A lot of the alloy radiators (and other parts) are Chinese imports made by one or two main manufacturers out there, not knocking them, they and the intercoolers you get can be spot on, but I used to be able to get them direct from there for around £90 to my door not long ago, much cheaper if I bought 5/6. General resale values I have seen on them do range from £130 to £300+ for he same rad though so make sure you don't buy the same product for a lot more than it should cost, see a lot of products like that but people will pay the prices thinking they get a much better product when they're ofte
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There was some good info on the page about the strengthening of the 5th/6th planes somewhere here; https://de-de.facebook.com/doc.drehmoment.official/
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Having problems? No idea what's going on? READ FIRST!
RBPE replied to RBPE's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
No worries Pete, nice overview of systems, case of backtracking then. -
Having problems? No idea what's going on? READ FIRST!
RBPE replied to RBPE's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Mods not stickying this? You add this thread to this one here; http://www.vr6oc.com/forum/forums/topic/48201-the-definitive-remapping-thread/ then you have your entire ecu's, the sensors and what causes problems! Just a thought! -
Had a good question crop up;"What internally gated turbo?" Garret do internally gated versions of their GT range, often with "wg" in their name, e.g. GT3076R-WG for wastegated. I think they go as far as 3582 models in size. 3076/3582WG should be similar. Holsets can be internal gate but on all turbo's without specified wastegate springs - make sure they aren't set up for high boost pressures. The EFR range have internal gates too. The JDM ones on the bay can be internally wastegated too - look for something bigger than 50lbs/min/500hp - likely with 74/75mm+ compres
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Link https://app.box.com/s/82pr4yohs0wjuylxprtqv6flkrtj2nal
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More to come - it is how the ME7 ecu's work, correct caliibration procedures. Bit of change with the earlier mk3's but you only need to look for the main maps and have made English def files like the one you've seen. Look at the Z's for Zundung - ignition and ZW adds winkel for angle, K for knock/ klopfen , E for injection/ Einspritzung etc
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I get loads of notifcations from posts/replies on here to e-mail, some must've gone to junk folder, un-junked them, pressed opt in but the opt in thing is cropping up on every page - screenshot; bit at top crops up on every page;
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I keep getting some "opt in" e-mail thing popping up and it's annoying me now. Some went to my junk folder and "not spam"ed them but this opt in thing keeps popping up. Have pressed it obviously but keeps cropping up. Anyone?
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VR6 12V Tunerpro files for older M2/3 systems; http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadBinDefs.htm#VW
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Some quick notes made on the monitoring functions and ecu checks/values from the Bosch system strategy documents online. Gives you an idea of what is going on for normal checks and running; https://app.box.com/s/7fvt652zoqapzmfq7fv0rfufs96yv25q
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Inlet manifold simulation model: The actual mass of the air within the cylinder is relevant for fuel metering and torque calculations and it is calculated using an inlet manifold simulation model due again, to the fact that there is no direct way to monitor charge and therefore requires modelling/simulation. The inlet mani model can either be monitored directly or simulated depending on MAF/HFM or MAP sensor’s being used by that particular model (HFM/Air mass obviously for the NA VR engines). The HFM led cars can calculate charge density directly from the in
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ME7 SYSTEM OVERVIEW Due to the system’s modularity, very different system configurations can be realized. For example systems with different sensors for cylinder charge determination (air mass or speed density), naturally aspirated or turbocharged engines, engines with or without EGR and engines with variable camshaft actuation are possible. The main system features are as follows: • The engine torque management which controls all torque influencing actuators • A/F ratio control with a central A/F manager, λ-pilot control, λ-closed loop control, or alternatively with a Nernst
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MOTRONIC 2 TO ME7 EVOLUTION – A BRIEF OVERVIEW: Ignition – Motronic: Takes approx. 2ms (0.002s) from start of mixture ignition to complete combustion. Time remains constant for all engine speeds, time “available” for process to occur lessens as revs rise, therefore the spark must be generated sooner, this process is called ignition advance. At idle spark occurs near top of compression stoke, higher revs spark must be generated sooner so maximum cylinder pressure occurs on power stroke. Emissions system: Throttle positioners and dashpots EGR Oxidation Cat 02 Secondar
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DIY Tuning: DIY tuning certainly doesn't mean that it can't be done well, even better than many professional tunes, as many free resources are available nowadays, but the fact of the matter is, in order for it to be good, do your homework first and take time and care and you should be fine! How can I protect my car from damage? Before anything, make sure all the systems are in good working order, spark plugs or coils, injectors and fuel pump and so on. Secondly make sure that there is plenty of fuel, you'll be often working the engine hard at times and as such, you want to avoid
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The definitive VR6 & R32 Remapping thread *****NOTE - LINKS MAY NEED YOU TO SIGN UP AND JOIN FORUMS DETAILED PLUS MAKE SOME POSTS TO SEE THE INFORMATION IN THE THREADS YOU ARE MISSING!****** Little bit of a “Bosch recalibration” thread for ya as I wasn't the op on the other one and have spent a while putting my notes into some legible format. About 90% of what I have done over the past half decade is predominantly ME7.1.1. based, or, as a conservative estimate, around 5000+ hrs at least solely on the V6/R32 ecu's. As such, it is somewhat bias to that – however, the
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Lol, you know, every time I did them I thought "that's not the right angle"! I'll try and have a do when I have time - I don't do this for a living I build cars so was just having a play really
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Quick carbon fibre one; can do them a lot better but it takes a lot of time so I'm just having a play whilst I do some for my site;
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Was playing with some more about 2 a.m. this morning - there are also OC national flag ones on the Facebook page if anyone has missed them?
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Possibly but would take a while. To put them on backgrounds you tend to have to cut around the image so with all the flames etc I'd have to spend time doing it - will try a few some point this week
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Bit more work with that! This is literally how easy it is to do the colours, takes me 10 seconds; Get that; https://www.gimp.org/downloads/ Load up the white - or black - vector, pic etc Go to "colours", "colour blance" - go to town, bit of left n right n save and you're done File - save or if you want a different form like .png or .jpg you go to export - et voila! Literally that easy! Fire's a bit harder - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKQXHQzV5p8
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Err, I used to use frozen solid above but been a while - they'll give you a quote dep on cogs/parts, if they have to strip box etc - used to have the details on their sites but it seems to have changed now - factor a couple of hundred I suppose sending them cogs n shafts. Few years though. Ask them what they charge for stripping box and see if they can check the state of your parts. Just because the stock box is taking 200lb/ft doesn't mean it'll blow the first time you put it at 400lb/ft - you can only tell for sure if you strip it and look at it plus cryo/heat treatment is about toughen
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Basic guide to explain why your car is going "bat s^&t crazy"! Your ecu, regardless of car, uses a lot of sensory inputs to make it work, how it does this is a part of a recalibration/remapping thread I am doing and too complex for here. Suffice to say, if these sensory inputs are not correct or make no sense to the ecu, it doesn't like it and throws a wobbly! Due to the fact that many sensors can be used for the ecu to check in one area - i.e. it looks at 2 maps with engine rpm v's coolant temp on one and engine rpm v's voltage on the other, it is essentially looking at 3 sensors her
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Wouldn't really make a difference in "strength" per se, maybe ratio at torque level v's rpm. If you want longevity, I would literally think of it this way; 1. "Is my gearbox in good condition?" - are the teeth worn too much? Can someone or you do a check on the state of your box? Using perhaps dyes or other such techniques? A poor base means a bad start! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_particle_inspection http://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/Magnafluxing.html 2. "Can I afford someone to modify the strength of my box?" - if so, how? Assuming it's too expensive to manufa
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You know, i'm not convinced that the ar makes that much of a difference on box breaking, the math/physics doesn't add up. Shock of slip to grip exerts far more force and modulation of that force would be better and on things like an 02M there are angular aspects to take note of. 02A and the like it's when it grips 4th/5th usually and that can depend on boost level, tyres, turbo bearing system etc. There's also material used as stock, the degree of heat treatment or hairline fractures of your stock box etc hence cryo treatments - there are far too many things to do with the box/drivetrain that
