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c00k

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Everything posted by c00k

  1. c00k
    Conduit I used has a split down the back, so you just slide / clip it over the loom. The size I can't remember sorry, but I just bought a kit on eBay, of various sizes. Something abit like this. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=201107759252&globalID=EBAY-GB
  2. c00k
    Cheers guys, I do like to make much as I can if possible, I enjoy it as I don't work with cars as my day job, I don't get bored or sick of working on them. As it only in the evening and weekends. And can be done at my own pace.
  3. c00k
    I mounted my engine on the stand, from the rear engine mount holes. You don't need the black extension arms. And you need to make a spacer, I used some uni-strut. To level the side of engine. It will give you easier access to the clutch and timing chains. This was mine...
  4. c00k
    Boost is on it's way!
  5. c00k
    Paints looks good buddy
  6. c00k
    Started to make a metal gearbox relay, to replace the crap standard platic one. It also part of short shift, as the relay pin has been droped by about 14-15mm. Reducing side to side movement in the gear stick. I'm going to be making a front and back short shift soon. The relay needed to be made on a CNC or lathe. I don't have either of these, But I so have a pillar drill. Haha. So I could imitate a lathe but on a vertical axis. Only on small items. This would be good enough to make what I wanted. Had some 12mm metal bar that was threaded inside, already in the garage. Used this to make
  7. c00k
    Sounds like you found a loved car there buddy, What's your plans for it? Restore it to it's former glore? Or you going to be looking for more power, different wheels, and few other mods?
  8. c00k
    I tired to hand paint my rear VR6 badge red, with a small artist brush. I went for hand painting at 1st as I wanted to keep the black outter edge. And didn't want to mask it all up. But it came out shit and I didn't like it. So I lightly sanded it back again, masked it up and sprayed it instead. Took awhile to do, and was bit fiddly. Will let the pics do the talking. Also did the supercharger badge. To ensure the red on both badges matched. Few edges needed tidying up a little bit.
  9. c00k
    Laying frame!! On 17's, with anit-roll bar still in there. Nothing touching or binding either New rear strut brace fitted, Plus rear polybush top mounts. Rear dampers adjusted to last but one hardest setting.
  10. c00k
    PM sent about injectors...
  11. c00k
    No problem mate.
  12. c00k
    Only differance in subframea are Power steering, and non power steering. There are also few very minimal differances to mk3 subframes but noting that would stop a car from running. Like the TDI's have extra few mounts for there undertray, there are also few other minimal differences between models. But what are different on later spec VR's which yours being R reg will be. The lower arms / wishbones are differnt - VR6 and 16v had different lower arms, different ball joints, different anti roll bar, different hubs.
  13. c00k
    Looks like front mount to me. Looks like you have it upside down in photo. Smaller part siting under crossmember. Larger part on top of crossmember.. Bolt goes through top, and screws in to metal bar inside. Should be direct replacement. Both other mounts (gearbox and rear engine mount), have mounting and bolt holes on the side aswell as the top. As they sit inside cups, and bolt from the side, not underneath. Usally both of these mounts are one piece ready to fit. So no side mounts, plus it's in two sections, defiantly front mount.
  14. c00k
    Most people running about 10psi boost run about 315cc to 349cc or anywhere inbetween. The map on ECU can be written to work with any flow injectors so long as there roughly around the right flow. Higher boost around 15 psi use roughly 440cc injectors Even higher again about 20-25psi boost roughly 630cc. Length of injectors are 68mm if I remember right. And EV1 or EV6 injectors will work, EV6 are meant to atomise better. Injectors use the standard 2pin connector type. Also injector flow can be changed with different fuel regulators. e.g. 339cc at 3bar pressure, or 391cc at 4bar pressur
  15. c00k
    Got the ECU back from Stealth. Got the spark plugs they recommended FR7KPP33+ Also gone back to a 3 bar fuel regulator. So I'm running 339cc@3bar. There also EV6 injectors which are meant to atomise and spray better than the oringal EV1's. Engine is now running super sweet. best its ever ran I think! Got my recirc valve fitted, and changed some of the piping. Hidden most of it, but can just make it out in this photo. Moved the MAF before the charger, ordered new air filter. As when I moved then MAF, it made my BCM CDA filter to long. So ordered a new shorter one. Few photos of the car
  16. c00k
    Looking good mate, I'd like to see where this gose, And progress made. Not may VR6 root superchargers out there. Quite a few differences between twin screw chargers, root chargers, and the more commonly used centrifugal chargers. Battery in boot in simple. Any 2, 1 or 0 guage wire will work fine as a long power wire. High end audio amp wire will work fine, or BMW wires as said before. Also put a 100amp fuse in there. Can use audio fuse holder, with correct 100amp fuse inside. Washer bottle can be removed, so long as you have a platic bottle in the cabin with water or screen wash in it,
  17. c00k
    How come you went back to standard manifold buddy? Surely with high boost and bigger pistons etc, a short runner would make higher figures. Standard manifold looks much better
  18. c00k
    Best thing I can recommend for handeling is correctly setup coilovers, and courner weights. Correct length and weight spring for desired ride height, And take it to a specialist garage that can set up the courner weight correctly and tweak the coilovers. As most cheaper coilovers come with generic springs, using same springs for TDi, 1.4, 1.8, 2.0, and 2.8. Where as standard springs would all be differnt weight ratings, for the different weight engines. This is the same way professional Motorsport would set up there suspension. Uprated anti roll bars will help, but courner weights and co
  19. c00k
    Well done buddy, This is going to be one hell of a car once finished! I'd like to make mine 4 wheel drive at some point!
  20. c00k
    Fair play mate, going to be amazing engine once finished. Looking forward to more updates.
  21. c00k
    Mk1 Capri!
  22. c00k
    I never seem to have to much trouble when working on my engine. I'd recommend 3 in 1 penetrant spray. Spray it on and leave for 5-10 mins. Also a set of special ratchet end designed for removing rusted or rounded bolts. Something abit like this. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=390351171705&globalID=EBAY-GB I've got a set abit like them and found them so useful. Most probs cheaper and easier than replacing studs, and using stud extractors. If the ratchet end don't work, blow torch the bastard! just make sure no pipes of wires are near, make heat shields
  23. c00k
    Love the mk1 escort!! Before I was in to VW's I used to own a 3 door Sierra cosworth. That was good fun to drive!
  24. c00k
    Cheers buddy, yeah it's worth it in the end. Lots of hours and late night all pays off once it done, and you can enjoy driving it!
  25. c00k
    Cheers buddy, The engine has been raised, so that makes things even closer. But no there wasn't much clearance, I had to cut a small part away, on the front edge of the inner engine bay. but it was very minimal. Pipe work can be customised to fit most spaces, Mine about to change slightly as I'm going to fit a recirc valve, and move the MAF before the charger. Plugs I'm running are BRK7E, gapped to 0.7... I may also try these gapped down. Vince from stealth racing recommended FR7KPP33+ Also gapped to 0.7. So I may try a set soon.
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