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c00k

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Everything posted by c00k

  1. c00k
    While the engine is out, drain the power steering, and chop the bend off the end off the power steering cooling pipe (pipe that runs in front of crossmember). It will make the pipe that goes to the power steering tank sit a lot better. And you can use the standard mounting point instead of cable ties. I did it on my black one. Get there buddy, keep it up man!
  2. c00k
    Gloss black, if you don't want them to stand out. hammerite direct to metal gloss black would work fine. Or halford sell caliper paint, if it any good I don't know I've never used it.
  3. c00k
    G12, standard coolant. I'd an external oil cooler, if not already done. They at seem to be norm, while boosting VR's
  4. c00k
    Looks much better on those wheels buddy. Front with the 312 brakes look spot on, maybe paint the calipers to finish it off nicely.
  5. c00k
    Did a small reinforcement on a spare sump I had, only over section near the drain plug, that commonly scrapes on these. Put a few holes in the plate, to help release water and moister. As it not full seemed along the edges. Then painted it in some of the special paint I had left over from the black VR's lower arms, subframe, crossmember, etc. (The paints meant for oil rigs that get built in the sea) Ready to go on spare engine before it gets fitted. Set of cheap silicone hoses. Fitted the TT pedals, Side windows and sunro
  6. c00k
    I didn't trim anything, you just have to bend the accelerator cover to the right shape. But it's not hard, I did it with just my two hands, it's only thin alloy and rubber. Fiddely to fit, but nothing needs trimming. Brake pedal is hardest with the middle rubber that goes through hole. In total took me about 10-15mins to fit. So hardly any time at all. I have them on both my VR's.
  7. c00k
    I got RHD TT pedals. The universal sunroof deflector may fit, but they sit a lot higher / taller than the votex version. Also the votex version has screw fixings and clamps to keep it in place. Where the universal use double sided tape. I'll admit the votex ones are much harder to find, and most probs double maybe triple the price as well. Mine came from German eBay. I looked in to both types before buying mine.
  8. c00k
    After taking a think about this car, I have decided I am going to change the engine, but not for the decent one I already have in my garage. So I found another engine locally, with under 100k on it. So decided to go have a look, hand cranked it over and it seem good condition. So I bought it. And got my mate to pick it up on his recovery truck, and store it in his garage for a few weeks. It's still at my mates garage at the mo, waiting for him to drop it down with engine crane this weekend. I'll compression test it before fitting. But hopefully it should be a dec
  9. c00k
    New coolant pipes pipes are fitted, filled up with deionised water, and G12. Had it running for a good hour last weekend. Will be taking it out for a drive and few photos this weekend if we have a dry few hours.
  10. c00k
    Couple of photos from last time it was out to keep build alive.
  11. c00k
    Welcome buddy
  12. c00k
    This is going to be crazy when it finished!!
  13. c00k
    Not long now buddy,
  14. c00k
    Must be problems on new server, lol. Admins should be able to delete duplicated post.
  15. c00k
    I think the badge / sticker looks good man. I know a company Who make very good reproductions of the supercharger badge.... Trimsport. They also make different size badges. http://trimsport.bigcartel.com/category/oem-quality-badges?page=1 Cheaper then buying a genuine one, and most people would never tell. Liking the heckblende too!!
  16. c00k
    Looking good buddy, carpentry isn't to hard dude, Get a half decent jig-saw, and some wooden blades and your on your way. Use straight 2"-1" lengths to get nice straight cuts, following them as guides. If you want to do very nice curves, joins or overlap, I suggest a hand router, with a few different ends. Would be cheaper to rent or lend a hand router if you don't own one. Not cheap to buy. If uphostering the wood after cutting and shaping pre-seal the wood with PVA, to stop the upholstery adhesive soaking in to much. Apply upholstery adhesive to both wood and underside of material, all
  17. c00k
    PM sent about supercharger belt.
  18. c00k
    Replaced driver window mech this weekend, and went round a few scrap yards looking for bargains. Didn't find that much... Got a replacement window mech. Wasn't paying new prices for this car, as it's meant to be a cheaper run around. eBay wasn't my help either, cheapest one I could find with a motor was £60, plus postage.... £15 from my local scrappies and had fun smashing the window to get it out haha. Also got an upper glover box, who needs a passenger air bag. I also suspected the cat is half blocked, and restricting the system. So I may fit a high flow cat, or de-cat pipe but with a bulg
  19. c00k
    Going to be amazing when it's finished being linked up and on to road tests!!
  20. c00k
    Looks spot on mate, Looks like a very decent spray job
  21. c00k
    He's running E85 107 octane, if I remember right. still impressive.
  22. c00k
    Yeah man that's where I saw it, my set-up uses a totally different idle pulley system. So wouldn't work with mine, but as soon as I saw it on the supercharged mini I thought It would work with vortech supercharges.
  23. c00k
    Have you replaced your small idle pulley mate. As I have and idea of one that may work. It's from a Subaru, I saw it on something I was watching, and thought straight away they could be used on VR superchargers. http://shop.grahamgoode.com/subaru-impreza-classic-small-timing-belt-idler-pulley-ggs3028-64860-p.asp Something abit like this, the rear could be milled, cut down, or even spaces. If it will definely work I'm unsure, but it's an idea. I think with a small bit of fiddling and adjusting it could work very well.
  24. c00k
    Looking good buddy, are you running the MAF after the charger then? Or you going MAFless? Almost mounted my catch can there, but after looking at the hose route, and wanting to try and hide them as much a possible. I went for it on the bulk head, next to brake servo. Getting there man! Going to amazing with you freshly built engine too!
  25. c00k
    This could be a good alternative, for the price buy a meter and see if it fits. Once checked, take off old seal, measure length, order to suit. http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1286-door-seal.aspx Woolies is brilliant for door and boot seals, plus interior trimming, fixings and fasteners. I've used there trimming adhesive for few year now and everything I have done with it is still trimmed and looking nice, without any of the glue failing. I use the heat resistant adhesive.
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