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c00k

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Everything posted by c00k

  1. c00k
    Boooooosst!!! Bet your happy to have driven it buddy Not long and it will be on the road for a good beating. Keep it up dude. All worth it for once you can drive it
  2. c00k
    I'd say yes it will change the preformance, by how much I'm unsure. Any extra pipe work cause more drag at the same air velocity. Plus It almost like a bottle neck, or reducer before the turbo. But if it make it run, and is a vital part of the setup, I'd fit it and see how it runs. I'd also say vapor blasting may be not aggressive enough to smooth out the metal on the inside. Media blasting would be best bet. Or buy a cheap sand blast gun if you have a compressor and use cheap BnQ or wickes sand. And give it a good hot wash afterwards.
  3. c00k
    Adjust the track rod end outwards, so it brings the back of the wheel out more.
  4. c00k
    It's an OBD2 engine mate, can tell by the throttle body, and it only has single upper chain. Definitely OBD2. Toe in toe out is adjusted on the tie bars and track rod ends, best get it set up professionally unless you know what you are doing. Otherwise tyres will only be last a few weeks to a month . Look good buddy, keep it up man.
  5. c00k
    I have 8 valves and loads of air fitting spare I could sell if interested. I'll have a look through rest of my bits, as I've most proberly got more stuff aswell.
  6. c00k
    Yeah man, I have a garage behind my car port, but it has to much stuff in it to keep the car in there was well, so I built a car port in front of garage to work in and keep VR dry. But the garage has power plus I can take parts off and work on them and keep all my tools and spares in garage, so it work quite well.
  7. c00k
    Cheers buddy, I'm making use of the day light after work atm as well, as it will soon be gone, I can link up light in my car port if needed for the darker nights.
  8. c00k
    After driving with the charger fitted and mapped for awhile. On long runs I find the temps start to creep up. So I bought a different rad. It's from an Audi S6 but is an uprated S6 alloy rad. It's much bigger then my top fill rad I had before, and is bigger than a standard VR rad aswell. Reason I went for an Audi S6 is. It's the biggest I could fit between the headlights, even with custom fitting. It has the same size inlet and outlet ports as a standard VR. So standard pipe work would fit. Also the fan switch is on the same side as VR. After a bit of chopping I got it fitted. And got the
  9. c00k
    It would be a AN fitting, Usally called AN weld in fitting or bung. Something like this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/171218256266 The 10 on the end is the size of braided hose. So you can get AN-4, AN-6, AN-8, AN-10, AN-12. The numbers are for different size braided hose.
  10. c00k
    There's some good videos on YouTube about welding buddy, With enough practise you will get there
  11. c00k
    Looks nice buddy, Any more photos and spec of engine?
  12. c00k
    Those seats look amazing buddy!
  13. c00k
    Also another way to cool the air, to stop pre-detonation, and higher intake temps.... Is water and methanol injection. This is one of the only ways to cool the air without any boost or flow loss. But this is not always idea for road, or daily driven cars, as it can never run out. So you have to top up petrol, and water and methanol all the time. This is why it's mainly used on track, drag or weekend cars.
  14. c00k
    This is half right buddy, yes it does make the air more dense as it cools. But longer pipework and any type of cooler cause drag. The internal flow area is the major controlling factor. Tube length is the second biggest consideration, as a tube twice as long as another will have nearly twice the drag at the same air velocity. Tube entry and turbulator density play small roles and can be considered insignificant. Boost loss is what is measured in the pressure loss and is the restriction presented to the smooth, easy air flow through the system. Essentially, the drag. It is measured by a press
  15. c00k
    25mm silicone will be fine, So will 25mm vacuum hose, as it only under boost for a coupe of seconds while the valve opens. Most of the time it's not under much pressure or boost at all. You can also get special parts to add in to your air intake system if wanted, to stop hydro lock. It's an extra intake point, that can open if the air filter gets wet and hydro locks. The bolts should work fine, I need 100mm ones for my set up, and bought high tensile Allen key, same as I sent you.
  16. c00k
    A charger cooler will also cause boost loss. Any longer pipework, charge cooler or intercooler will lower boost pressure. So this should be kept in mind also. Look in to boost loss on google and you will find everything you need to know. Why alot of people keep lower boost supercherger to minimal pipe work. And no cooler.
  17. c00k
    If you happy to have Allen key heads http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=360675642473&globalID=EBAY-GB Buy 120mm and chop off 5mm, or let 5mm hang out of end. Or high tensile, again 120mm, chop 5mm off. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=360850401876&globalID=EBAY-GB 25mm vacuum hose should work for the recirc valve. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=190884940904&globalID=EBAY-GB
  18. c00k
    Best way mate, do all the work your self. I thaugh my self to weld quite afew years ago. It's not to hard buddy, practice first. Practices loads. Once you think your good, Try welding two Stanley blades together. It's all about keeping the seam constant. Once you got that down and can weld thin blades together you should be quite decent at welding.
  19. c00k
    Looking good dude. If you want it totally mint. Put it in some caustic soda, to removed the anodising, leave it 10-15mins and the anodising will just wipe off, no sanding needed to remove it. Then get it re-anodised, powder coat, or paint it.
  20. c00k
    Looks like a good base project buddy. Why not change it to manual, While you got it half ripped apart. Be worth it in the long run. I'd also look at getting new coolant hoses and vacuum lines if it was mine, as the rubber has most likely started to perish if lots of stuff is rusty. Keep at it dude. All the hard work will pay off in the end.
  21. c00k
    Personally I think it's a complete FAKE myself, Both videos and website with info on are both hoaxes.
  22. c00k
    Paramagnetic paint.... Instant colour changing paint. What you guys recon, Real or Fake?? http://youtu.be/tvnUO5341yo Link to some info on paint..... http://www.litcoat.com/paramagnetic-paint
  23. c00k
    If it bolts where the old tensioner goes? I made some for my supercharger. The outside shape is not really important, It's the holes that are important. Although on mine I roughly followed the shaped of the cylinder head for the out side shape. I made a few different thickness as I was unsure of the spacing.
  24. c00k
    Nice wheels man, Let me know how you get on with the 185's, I have same tyres on my summer wheels, And find I can make them brake traction quite easily.
  25. c00k
    PM sent.
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