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c00k

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c00k last won the day on November 8 2018

c00k had the most liked content!

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About c00k

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Website URL
    http://www.vr6oc.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cardiff, Wales
  • Interests
    Cars. VW's. VR6's. Computers. Technology. Making things. D.I.Y.

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  1. Use the old block of wood or screw driver trick to help pin point the sound more, Put a thin bit of wood or long screw driver on the touching underneath of sump put you ear touching the wood or screw driver, and listen for the knock. Now repeat on cylinder head, time chain covers, the louder the knock the near you are to the problem, by testing in different places you should be able to determine the rough area of the problem. If the con rod bearings have spun badly and misshaped or scored the crank, just replacing the bearings will not fix it. As mentined ab
  2. Spent the last 2 weekends touching up stone chips blending them in with 3000grit, wet sanding small scratches with 3000 grit, cutting lacquer back, and detalting the body work, I'd say between the 35-40 hours in total. In order it went: clean and wash car, clay whole car, to remove any small tar spots or contaminates on surface. check whole car for stone chips and scratches. Clean stone chips of any existing wax or crap built up in them, touch up with colour coded paint and lacquer mixed together, (this takes a very steady hand, tiny paint brush, a lot
  3. Many things to consider when making a forced induction engines and air and fuel ratios. When it comes to the air side if things..... Cool air is better yes. Denser air is better with more oxygen. More humid air is worse. (More water vapour) Piping, width and how it flows is also a factor. More bends and corners the more this restricts the air flow. The longer the piping the more drag. To wider pipe for to lower pressure will slow the air flow. Coolers... front mounts, side mouns, air to water, they all cause quite a lot of drag.
  4. Sounds like a plan, what width is the spring loaded coupler, if it's about 10mm then its been used instead of the 3rd bearing.
  5. Yeah man We've been chatting in PM also.
  6. Nightmare mate, atleast it didn't hydro lock, so long as you get rid of all the water like your are doing, hopefully all should be good. Snorkel kit you need, going up side of windscreen haha
  7. Fair play mate, loads and loads of work gone in. Keep it up dude, and will be mint in not to distant future.
  8. You can re-aline the throttle body using vag-com. Im not sure of the angle off the top of my head sorry, but re-alining it with vag-com should solve any angle issues.
  9. Loads of mk3's, should be able to make a very nice VR6 out of all 3
  10. Looks cool, keep the updates coming.
  11. Looks good buddy, The building next to my work does vinyl wrapping, i've wrapped quite a few things over the years, started by getting tips off the guys who work next door. 3M accredited is what you want to look at doing, 3-4 day course if I remember right. And 3M vinyl is meant to be one of the best to buy an use. They do some brilliant work next door to me, they did a show car scirocco in matt grey. Some of the top place in my opinion are Raccoon graphics, Pop-in graphics, and Brandz vehicle wrapping. I almost had my black VR wrapped a f
  12. Loads more has been happening as well, but I will update soon......
  13. Got my Audi 80 gauges fitted, and all wired up. Not hard at all to wire up, just need 12v, 12v switched, ground, illumination, and single wire each for the sensors. I was suprissed at how easy they were to fit. Fainly got a photo of my boost gauge that has been in there ages now lol All the gauges have red illumination to match dials and all my switches. I've had my 280mm steering wheel in there for ages now, I do still like it but fancied a change. So I bought an Audi TT mk2 flat bottom steer
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