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Phat VR6

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Everything posted by Phat VR6

  1. 2nd hand box is the cheepest way... Check your gearbox oil level first as it could just need toping up.. I had a car that made this noise for 2 years before i wrote it off and it still didn't let go.. Id leave it if i was you as you might find it will last another few years
  2. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1264409 There u go mate
  3. Im affard it sounds like the gearbox layshaft bearing has gone. This shaft spins all the time while the clutch is up the noise goes away when you push the clutch down because this shaft is no longer spinning If it was the clutch release bearing then you would hear it when you rest your foot on the clutch or push your clutch down....
  4. engine can stay in but gearbox needs to come off
  5. hello. first disconect the battery and leave for half hour so the airbag dont take your head off lol. Put your wheel strate ahead, Unscrew the 2 allen key bolts on the back of the wheel (7mm i think). Then remove your airbag (theres a little plug you need to unclip) Then theres a big 24mm nut in the middle. Undo that. Wiggle the wheel and it comes off, Job done
  6. yup or stuck open. Nice ventro btw
  7. Welcome mate.. lol i joined in the same way asking questions and ended up getting stuck hear lol. Sure noone will mind. It could just be a case of tracking and camber or even the camber of the road.. Atho ive hurd alot of people complane about it without anythink been wrong (my last one did it) To check your strearing rack get both front wheels off the floor and work it full lock to lock.. If you feel it go tight then that could be your problem
  8. Right whats the point in the intercooler been big if most of it is hidden behind the bumper? The bit behind the bumper isn't getting any airflow there for not doing any cooling just increasing turbo lag... Surly its not doing anythink ?? Am I chatting bollucks or is there somthink in what I say... You might as well only have the intercooler the size of the gap in the bumper?
  9. Cheer mate.. yep just used it and it seem quite good
  10. You need to surport your engine as only the O/S rear engine mount will be left conected.. I use a engine surport which goes from wing to wing under the bonit but you can use a trolly jack with a block of wood. The bracket im on about is the one that conects the front engine mount to the engine/ gearbox... Theres no need to remove ball joints (altho can make it easyer) or drain gear oil ect.. Do in this order... Undo the spline bolts that hold the drive shafts on (braker bar and socket on the big hub bolt center of wheel helps keep the drive shafts still if needed )and then cable tie them out
  11. You need to take the bracket off aswell as the bolt from the starter motor bolts into it
  12. Just got a big bottel but it hasn't got instructions on it... Anyone know how many caps im ment to use per bucket? Cheers Tom
  13. As above also other thing to check it could be the crank seal, Dip stick where it meets the block, oil cooler. Oil filter or housing. Does it look likes its mainly coming from where the engine meets the gearbox?
  14. Ive been thinking about the front and back... What adhesive do you use?
  15. hahaha. mines the same.. Gota watch out cus your oil pickup pipe could be damaged... No spechal tools but an 3/8 extention bar with a wobbly end helps for the bolts that go under the bell housing
  16. The metal pas pipes are comon to rust and leak... Also check round the pump
  17. Its realy easy if nothink seized. What I would say it go to a tyre fitter before you start and ask them if they can zap the two bolts off on the front top mounts with an airgun (under the bonnit) and then lighty tighten them up fot the way home... These can be a real bastard to get free Also when doing the backs get both wheels off the floor and put axal stands on the body (not the rear axal) so the axal can hang down. This gives alot more room to remove the shocker, a braker bar down the axal where the bottem bolt goes in and a mate to leave it down abit does help if room is still tight ( y
  18. Sounds like clutch slip to me aswell... The old way of testing for cluch slip is to put it in 1st with your hand brake on.. Without adding any revs lift your handbrake up and it should stall. Only works if its realy bad tho
  19. Phat VR6

    Fuel Light

    normaly about 20ish miles driving easy.. My 1.4 used to last about 40 but its not a good idea as you can suck the crap up out the tank
  20. hello.. Can I ask what "duty" is please? "407 BHP" off hear had the same proplem with his AVCR which made it run at 25 psi (caused his engine to chuck a rod and write his block off lol) He had wired it up himself wrong or somthink.. Out of intrest what compression ratio you running and are you using standard rods?
  21. Yes you did' date=' hows it going, still got the same VR ? [/quote'] Yes its going good mate. u? Nope the VR got scraped but your door lives on lol.. Finished building your house yet
  22. Like the ones you got on now.. Look deep dish? Put some pics up
  23. Nope I had one yesterday. Donno where he came from but he was about 5" up my arse. Big black new M5.. I left him there for 10 minutes somone was infront of me.. They pulled off. Then I floored it round this conrer I no looked in my mirror and he was about 40 meters behind me lol. What a pussy
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