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Phat VR6

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Everything posted by Phat VR6

  1. You can get lightweight hydrolic lifter altho there not going to make a big difference... If they don't tap now then theres no reason to change them imo I know what your saying about the cost. ive always wanted to fully build an engine for when i go turbo but having looked over vw vortex it seems most people use standard rods and pistons up to 400 bhp so ill probaly be doing that to start off with. Fully built engines tend to be for people that drag there cars or run silly bhp altho if you can afford it go for it lol If its only your bores and ring that are fucked how about 2.9 (3.0 makes t
  2. Personly I dont think it look cool atall, infact im starting to think your abit mad lol if you like it tho get it fitted
  3. I think its because there made for a high reving engines and even tho your going turbo your not going to be reving over 7500 normaly. so there not needed R32s are very nice cars altho abit heavy.. Personly at my age id rather put a r32 in my mk3 lol
  4. Id be very tempted to go with it ebay ones.. tbf most people seem to keep standard rods upto 400 bhp so them H beams should be sound i recon Is the rifle drilling somthink todo with the oil ways? I wouldn't think you realy need it doing, if anyone has i would think it was stealth Anyway this sounds like a beast your making, what bhp ect and boost you aiming for?
  5. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-VR6-Audi-A3-TT-3-2-Connecting-Rods-Conrods-Pleuel_W0QQitemZ350025354127QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 These rods are alot cheeper and still 4340 H beem, Unsure about the make but only £340 and are ment to take 1000bhp How about a big valve port and polished head
  6. Is 25mm up front bigger than standard? So its eather 20 mm back on its own, Or if you want to fit both at the same time 25 front 28 back? Guessing the balence is the same just the action on the 25/28 is harder and pushes the wheels down more So im my mind its best to fit the both uprated ones unless below is true? Also hurd somwhere that anit roll bar on the back and no roll bar at all at the front helped keep traction because the one wheel thats hanging is able to be kept in contact with the floor (where as the anit roll bar would normaly be holding it back away from the floor adding downw
  7. So what can u make it do it kick in earlyer.. I thought the point it kicks in was down the the size of the turbo? Arn't you tempted to find some money from somwhere and go the C2 route
  8. Hello, Realy easy matey, Unplug your coilpack. Remove a spark plug screw gauge in. Crank over engine untill it stops going up carry out on all cylinders. ment to be around 11-14 bar iirc but best to see if they all match each other... Carry out hot as everythink is exspanded... but you can carry out cold aswell Hope this helps
  9. ok ok ok now ive hurd from somone thats had one snaped it looks like ill be doing the hole lot lol Tell me more about the R32 tensioner... I new about fitting the late R reg 12v tensioner but never hurd about the R32 one,, Have you got any part numbers or any more info So what does everyone think about GFS chains
  10. gearbox and engine are apart and already out the car.. VW don't change them at a given time.. There not ment to ever need changing as far as VW are conserned and they deff haven't been changed by the look of them Its £30 vs £200.... £200 been a weeks work (which normaly gets spent in a few days Im realy considering just doing the tenstioner tbf... I can see the that the guides deff get worn but can't see how the chains ever going to break
  11. Bad earth? Then when you operate the electric windows it earths thought that causing the dash to become alive again... Sounds more like a bad earth/ conection problem to me but im not ruling out the battery, Cars can be strange things somtimes.. Check all your levals and do a hydromiter test on all cells.. Then a drop test and check all cells for heavy gassing. If all it good then your batterys alright Try wiggling your key in the igntion, Could be somthink todo with that
  12. seems scary to me but alot of people on E38 seem to think its fine http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=164303
  13. would anyone on hear trust GFS chains as its only £40 for both? I don't normaly trust GFS but if there the same chains, same make, made by the same people then i can't see anythink been wrong with them
  14. lol thanks for the replys... The engines got full service histrory from VW and looks very clean inside so its had reg oil changes so this probaly helps me make my mind up The motor only needs the chains/tensioners/ guides and a headgaskit doing before it goes in. Got most the bits and the thought of getting in going for £30 instead of £200 is very tempting when I havn't got the money for the hole lot atm Keep your comments coming or any horror storys of the chains them self failing Wish I had done a compression test before it came out to check the rings :@ But where do you stop lol
  15. Hello. Ive just had alook at my timing chains (140,000) and as I exspected the top tentioner is realy badly worn and only 3/4 is left remaining.. The rest having broken up! Is there realy much point in changing the chains along with all the guides.. Why not just change worn tentioner and leave it at that?? Money is tight and doing it this way just means getting the VR rebuilt quicker.. Any thoughts on the matter?
  16. U got my vote aswell... Dare I say the 106 isn't that bad tbf :-*
  17. If it was adjusted up to tight then this could cause this. Also your stub axal could be damaged. You wont be able wind your hand brake off from under the ashtray. This will just adjust the amount your handbrake it self moves. U need to wind the pot back in on the caliper itself You could try jacking each side up and givin them a spin to see if there sticking. Also check for play in the bearings. U want a very small amount of play on the rears
  18. on your car been a 1994 at around 80-90 k around nowish lol
  19. You need the ABS working on a mk3 if its fitted.... If you remove all the ABS and repumb the brakes and set it up properly (mines now running the same kind of brake set up your mk2 will be running) Then running no abs is not a problem atall, Personly i perfer it without and mine now stops quicker than a mk3 with ABS
  20. yes but watch your back end... once unpluged your back locks before the fronts
  21. this seems to make sence to me with the heavy front end. Are you saying doing the rears on there own is better than uprating both, including the front one? Hurd somthink somwhere about it making the drive "choppy" but i don't realy understand what it means, Because its choppy its slower round corners or just abit weird to drive/ get used to? whats a "whiteline"? Never hurd of it before
  22. fair play... Its going to be nice to see how much faster it is than 15.19 for the 1/4 mile
  23. ive repumbed mine, if you leave it how it is the backs lock up before the front.. It stops quicker now aswell + dont need to worry about exspencive abs faults later on
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