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Phat VR6

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Everything posted by Phat VR6

  1. is the saab really a hatchback tho, looks more like a coop saloon. tbf the VR isn't doing bad, were in the top half about 20 from the top
  2. nor do I mate. Just seemed you where having a go like
  3. your car as standard does 25mph when it says 30 on the clock (set at factory to cover you for speed cameras and police) So it does change but only makes it more accurate lol what im trying to say is your not going to set off speed cameras or get done by the police so you have nothing to worry about
  4. your totally right and on my motor unless i know the head gasket was in good nick with good compression id have the head off and do the above, then at 145k id start scratching my head about guide... then thinking about a 3 angle valve job and the price would grow. No not on a VR6, have you? But i have on a 205 gti and its not nearly as much as a job as you make out, Just use a different spring compressor and instead of pliers for seals use the said tool, apart from that its the same process. Not everyone want the best from there car or the job, some people just want to sort the smoke and g
  5. well i had pretty much covered valve stem seal replacement 4 minutes earlier. http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?266259.0#post_266263 and id hardly say that "head off, valves out" was very in depth !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! same as my comment of "leave head and valves in" I was even kind enough to mention it can't be done with tools from hailfords Anyway going into further detail is normally a total waste of time as most don't even say appreciater the help Doing it with the head on save on £££ for new head bolts and head gasket and personally if you tak
  6. can be done without taking head off. but you need a special tool
  7. the place where you take it to get skimmed should know by meausing how much had been taken off already, And how much more they can skim off safely You need to use a valve spring compressor tool to get the valves out. Removing cams, lift of hydrolic tappets. Then use tool to compress spring. flick collets out, release tool, lift retainer off and valve spring, then slide valve out. Clean up Then using course valve lapping in paste start lapping in valves and turn 90 deg every say 20 seconds, you want to get the same colour lighty grey all way round on the seat and valve. no black spots
  8. undo and remove center nut while its on the floor (think its 30mm iirc) Jack up remove the 8 bolts that hold the inner CV join onto gearbox cups Oil doesn't come out when changing Let the inner side come down and rest on the floor then center punch in the center of the outer CV joint and tap it, it should pop out the spline on the other side# Been a while seen i last did one but could need to remove the 3 bolt from the lower ball joint to give you more room Also locking steering wheel left to right can give you more room If you get stuck when your doing it just come on here and ask in this t
  9. i will want one but not for a while as in a few years unfortunately. Interest in this product will grow and grow the more people do the convention so def start making them. As for price go for around the same as dutchdub, Personally i think around £70 would be good. don't think its worth alot more than that
  10. its up to you dude but the way i see it is the audis heavier, expensive to buy and age doesn't really matter I think your just been lazy :-d lol Is it still going to be a daily driver? I think if you did keep it in the mk3 it would possibly be the fastest mk3 in the country which would be cool. saying that i do like audi a3s
  11. I recon stay with the mk3. weld the boot closed and add a silly amount of scaffolding bars inside to give strength. Then do the old chop and weld jobby with a mk3 sycro, mk4 4 motion or to really push it the mk5 independent fancy rear axal
  12. if they go past the rivets and they drop out then they go quite again
  13. If your really worried take it to a garage thats worked on the VR engine before and get them take the top chain cover off and have a butchers. Don't think it would be to pricey and worth it to put your mind at rest
  14. think its also got a dirty big turbo on it aswell. strate pipe with turbo is a good thing but on standard VR you will loose power and overfuel
  15. Thinner longer runner gives you more torque Fatter shorter runners gives you more BHP The short runners intakes (SRI) can be used on N/A but would only give a gain at the top end, there is talk about the short runners been tunned for a much higher RPM than the car can rev to but this doesn't really matter when going FI Also they don't have runner compensation that the standard manifold has. So to answer the question fitting a SRI would loose you torque low down but you could make your own manni with thinner longer intake runs but then you would loose top end BHP The easiest and best way would
  16. does it come on when you turn the ignition and then turn off again? bald tyre, silly camber?
  17. lol his made it to so its still a practical road car
  18. You got to be a Premium Member to get the 15% off... Might as well join up as i think they can do with the cash to keep the site running. something along them lines anyway
  19. Doesn't the twin scroll spool up quicker? .... The T60-1 looks abit bigger? It sounds like both do the job but which is best for the VR (kev thanks for the info on knock)
  20. dude go to a tyre fitters on the way home and get them to zap the top nuts on your front suprension... Will make life a lot easyer
  21. go into the tuning section on this site, Then read kevs turbo DIY at the top. Then have a good mooch though the rest of the treads as Pritty much every question you could ask is answerd in hear
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