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Phat VR6

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Everything posted by Phat VR6

  1. Nankangs as i need to save £££, was expecting them to not grip as well but the difference is much bigger than i thought last ones where at 1.6235 mm and they did what ever i told them to lol
  2. Do you have to let tyres where in? Just bin for a drive, went round a bend abit slower than i would normally and all hell broke loose, back end feels all loose and keeps kicking out
  3. I think the rule is just stay away from cheep makes you've never hurd of and get a top brand Also think about what you want out of them good in the wet or dry, or both, Long lasting ect The tyres craggsy has are silly good in the dry but would be worse than toyos in the wet
  4. lol probably not Ive had toyos and Goodyear F1s, which where both nice, now im getting a set of Nankang which are alot cheaper so will be nice to see the difference (might crash lol) Like to try difference tyres each time I want to try a set of them toyo R888 but they wont be any good good for England
  5. i hqate the thought of that when youv got variable inlet you just lose sooo much low end Id be very surprised if that manni still got variable track/ flap mec in it... it just looks like the standard inlet
  6. put in 5th... slack cables... tighten again
  7. how much does it cost to fill a bottle and how long would it last? You could just upreate the clutch fella http://www.spturboparts.com/afterMarket/ViewDetails.aspx?prod=16020 that should take 70-100 shot easy
  8. Is the new one going to look anything like this? Just an idea I had but thinking about it, it might cause uneven flow?? might not matter been FI
  9. Anyone running these? its all i can afford atm and at £155 for4 its seems a good price. I no there not going to grip like my current goodyear F1s but just wondering what there like for grip or and Tyre wear, my tryes don't seem to last longer than 7 months a times even when swapping front to back :@
  10. ive stripped the rear out of my 3 door and saved around 80 kg and you wouldn't belive how much better it goes round corners, Thats with a 8v in the front and the balance feels stop on, once i put the VR in it will be alittle front heavy so the 4 door probaly helps get closer to 50/50 To get mine to handle how it does now when the VR goes in (the VR is 40gk heavyer than what i got in now) i need to loose 40 kg of the front or transfer 20 to the back and loose 20 up front. Im hoping battery in the back and carbon bonnit will do it
  11. Mines come down+ different car now :-d,,, Everything declared, 1994 1.8 8v with a VR6 engine conversion £1150,,, Only £50 more than what i pay with the 1.8 8V Couldn't be happier tbf and it feels much better knowing if i crash im insured lol
  12. its where the boost pressure is building up struggling to flow thought the manifold Isn't there anyway you can run it without the spark plug holes as it would flow much better without them Stunning fab work tho
  13. about the same money and near enough the same power. Hard decision tbf lol. R32 is going to cost more but has much more potential BUT 500 bhp from a VR6 is the same as 500 bhp from a R32 so depends what your aim is and why your doing it, Perhaps to make a unique mk3 If you want over 500-600 bhp then you need to put a R32 in (and 4 wheel drive) If you only want a 400 bhp FWD mk3 i don't see much point, saying that though i know what id rather have LOL
  14. nope, bolt it in, change exhaust manifold, Make wiring loom from standalone to engine, get mapped on rolling road.... turn key/ have fun
  15. lol, my cards signed upto a 3 year old paypal, mission to sort it out cba lol
  16. It was more of a case of everything else is new, checked the bolts that hold the stub on are all tight. Which made me think stub, Inspected stub and mine was highly polished where the bearing sit + I could feel a tiny lip when running my nail over it, You could try putting the bearing over, I didn't tbf so i don't know if you can really see that much, if the wheels only moving 3mm at the edge then the movement on the bearing is going to be very very small I had a second axal which had stubs in a better condition so i tryed them on, job done I donno if this is your problem but i wouldn't be
  17. You not seen Jakes then......all be it a 3.2 24v version its still a vr6 If where honest its not, Its 400cc bigger, got 12 more valves and still short by 20bhp I think alex's was around 400-450 when he was running 20psi on the rotrex
  18. Take the clip off the top inside of the bumper, then trim it back abit, Thats normally where they rub, If that doesn't sort it get as many of your mates you can to get in the back and boot and have a look where its rubbing, Might just be a case if fileing somthink a few mm or giving it a tap with a hammer, touch up paint after to stop rust
  19. When this normally happens it means your sub axal is worn. Had the same thing on mine, I fitted new bearings and discs and still had play, Wouldn't pass MOT so changed the stubs and its all good now, Not cheep tho
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