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matth76

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Everything posted by matth76

  1. Could be condensation if car was only recently started. Or it could be slight oil leak around oil stem seals..not too much of a problem unless it is smoking or leaking a lot. Was it very white smoke or did it seem slightly blueish? If car drives ok then see how it is over the next few days/weeks. Keep an eye on your coolant level and if you get any mysterious loss in coolant then it could be head gasket - unlikely though. Otherwise see how it goes. Keep an eye on oil level.
  2. 550.. seems good. Who did the rebuild? Worth recommending mate. Anyone know if you can you fit a 3.68 shorter final drive without fitting a Quaif or Peloquin diff? Does this make a huge difference to how the car drives?
  3. Anyone actually had to claim or get your ins. co to deal with an accident caused by a third party to your car? How good were they? It's when you actually need to claim or use them that you find out how good they really are. Cheers for any help.
  4. Thanks guys. Anyone have contact details for the above? Is HIC the same company as herts insurance?
  5. Not worth it in my experience. Very prone to shearing as stainless steel is much more brittle when hot and as said above doesn't flex like the stock exhaust mani. The stock exhaust manifold is very good. Mine made virtually no increase in bhp with only a very very slight increase in torque but you certainly can't notice it. No difference in noise. I've got a full milltek and high flow cat. The stainless 6 branch is not worth the cost mate in my opinion. If it was me I'd put the money towards some 268 cams.. (need to get a remap after fitting the cams but the cams will be worth it!!) far f
  6. I would have thought if it was the immobilizer it wouldn't turn over at all... but I might be wrong. Are all the leads and plugs ok? They can make a huge difference to the running if one of them is not right.
  7. matth76

    mileage

    Mine's around 97-98k. Bought it almost 2 years ago on 69k.
  8. Hi It's renewal time and was disappointed to find my insurance had gone up almost £50 from £430 to £475. I'm 31, 9 years protected no claims, no points, no convictions. My car's declared mods are lowered suspension, non-standard air filter, non-standard exhaust. I park on the street overnight (oddly this actually reduced my insurance from when I used to park on a drive!). My insurance is with Elephant. So I rang them up to find out why it had gone up and they gave some excuse about their rates going up this year. I lied to them and said I had a couple of quotes from other companies with
  9. I personally wouldn't recommend a stainless 6 branch - mainly due to them being very prone to getting small blows. Mine did and I took all the precautions to prevent it..just bad luck. Didn't make any real difference in power but did set me back quite a few bob! However a decat is worth getting or a high flow cat .. should liberate around 5bhp if you also fit a good air filter. However I'd spend my money on a set of 268 cams followed by remap...10-15bhp.
  10. Not worth the risk mate - Anyway not sure if you can do the bottom tensioner without taking the gearbox out anyway (someone will confirm this) so the chains may as well be done too, and clutch. Mainly for peace of mind but if the chains do need doing in the future you don't want the hassle of having to take the gearbox out all over again.
  11. Was there enough space for the lady to have stayed on her side without crossing into the middle or was it really tight both sides (basically meaning it was temporarily a one track road)? I would say it will be split both sides with no blame placed on either side - although the lack of breaking on her part will go in your favour - if your pics prove it. Did the cops turn up? Hopefully they will have seen this too that there were a lack of skid marks (they may have done this after you were shipped to hosp - so you may not know whether they drew up a report or not). Hope you get well soon mat
  12. lol ...just noticed it too... can't be right. I reckon they must have edited the photo and or being a concept someone just plain got it wrong. Prob paid too much detail to the engine and forgot about more minor things. I read somewhere yesterday that insiders in the industry estimated that if it was put in production it would be around the 70k mark. I suspect it won't be put into production though and if it was it would be a far more detuned engine.
  13. Where was your car last serviced? If it was me I'd ring up that garage and simply ask them. It's pretty likely they would have used the recommended oil Quantum Synta Silver 10w40. What ever oil you do use make sure it is semi-synthetic. GTX magnatec is semi-synthetic so fine. You'll find your vr runs far smoother on the Synta Silver though... mine did anyway.
  14. You are right mate once you get a blow and try to re-weld it it never fixes the problem. A couple of major specialists don't recommend them for this reason. My 6 branch developed a small blow in less than 6 months and I have all uprated engine mounts and proper flexi joints the lot... just luck of the draw. As mentioned above stainless steel is more brittle as far as I know making it very prone to shearing when hot. If it was me and I was modding all over again I would leave the stock 6 branch on. Mine made no bhp increase and only a slight increase in torque but not noticable when you dr
  15. No. Although rare, chains can and will snap... meaning end of engine. Just replacing the tensioners is definitely no good. A member on here had their chains snap recently...not good! Gearbox out job unfortunately mate.
  16. No could be correct... some rev counters will have x1000, and so have 1,2,3 etc round the rev counter meaning 1000,2000,3000 respectively. Or as in the case above may have x100, in which case have 10, 20, 30 etc round the rev counter, equating to the same 1000,2000,3000. Not sure why they change the multiplier but I'm pretty sure one of my old cars was like the above. One far more weird thing I once saw was in an aston DB9 on display once and I got to have a look at it's rev counter (it was a left hand drive car but this shouldn't have made a difference to the following) oddly it's rev count
  17. Looks good to me. The body coloured bumpers and alloys really improve it looks-wise over the standard gti. Can't believe the standard gti has plastic dull grey rear bumpers at the bottom. Can't understand why they are charging extra for a CD changer...should be standard for any car over 22k!! Even my 10yr old vr has a sony 10cd changer (albiet a tiny bit scuffed with its age but still working perfectly).. was this standard when the vr was released ? The edition 30 gti should have pretty similar performance to a lightly modded vr with just under 170bhp/tonne. I've personally found a stand
  18. BF Goodrich G-Force Profilers very good value and transformed my handling. My car used to veer slightly to the left now it is perfect. I've tried a few makes including Goodyear F1's, Conti's and the BF Goodriches are by far the best. I haven't tried Yokos or Avons though. You can see the BF's here: http://www.bfgoodrich.co.uk/bfguk/front/affich.jsp?codeRubrique=4&codePage=BFG_PAG_PRODUCT1〈=EN
  19. matth76

    mod advice

    In my own experience I'd do the following: - lower your suspension, I went for the often overlooked budget GMAX suspension but it's actually very good quality and recommended by the phirm who fitted mine. Can't fault it and it lowers your car approx 40mm and looks and handles perfectly. - Next I would fit a Milltek full exhaust system. - Fit a BMC air filter - Fit some 268 cams (best power for your bucks, unless you go for supercharger which is expensive). I got some barely used second hand Eurospec ones for just over £200. Go for either Eurospec, Shrick or Cat cams. They produce a very g
  20. Depends if it is the highsport or konigsports. The konigsports are a lot more expensive than the cheaper highsports.
  21. If your coilpack is on its way out then that would explain it. Can lose fair amount of power if the coilpack isn't right. Like you said they could have put the 3.0 or even the 3.2 v6 from the Omega which range from 207bhp to 217bhp and assuming with that lump the astra would be pretty much the same kerb weight as a VR at around 1170kgs then it would have a slight edge on a lightly modded vr with around 190-200bhp. However it would lack the class of a vr by a long mile! Found this spec list of all the poss omega engines and bhp outputs (obviously in the omega it a much slower car, best the om
  22. I know VW have stopped doing the 5 litre bottles quite a while back - only do the smaller bottles now.
  23. Not a huge difference in output. 268's may produce slightly more top end power but the difference probably wouldn't be noticable. Generally the higher the profile the higher the top end power but you also tend to lose slightly more lower down power as a result than lower profile cams. Good quality cams like Shrick, Eurospec, CAT, tend to provide an even spread in power throughout the rev range whereas some cheaper makes like Kent cams give good top end power but you lose a lot of low end power until you reach 4k revs. You can get slightly irregular idle but I don't get any noticable signs wi
  24. Quantum Synta Silver 10w40 (semi synthetic) - available from GSF or VW - a lot cheaper than Castrol etc but much better. Avoid fully synthetic as that will be far too thin.
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