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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. A rebuild, quaife, new clutch and the 3.68 crownwheel and shaft cost me
  2. 3 wire throttle plug is OBD1 mate. OBD2 throttle uses an oval multipin plug. Heads are the same across all VRs, the only thing that differs is the chain gear. On late AAA engines the upper chain is simplex (single row) and early AAA and ABV use duplex upper chains, but just retain your existing cams etc and you'll be fine.
  3. Yep, VW are the only people - currently - that can recode your new ECU to your transponder box. VAG-COM can't do it unfortunately. Ideally, people flogging OBD2 ECUs should include the key, reader coil and transponder box to make our lives easier! If the Blue temp sender is causing problems, try a 330ohm resistor across the plug and the engine will then think the coolant is at 90 degrees, see if that cures the issue. Cold starting won't be too clever though, so I'd only do it when the engine is hot. Also the blue plug can sometimes corrode if the plastic splash shield is missing.
  4. Has it got an idle valve? He might have junked the stepper motor arrangement and used a 2.9 manifold and TB? Not sure if the OBD2 ECU would be terribly thrilled by that though.
  5. What chip are you using? I get loads of black smoke if I floor it at 3500...but in my case it's the chip which is fat too rich in the midrange tables.
  6. I'm not sure a resistor will work now I think about it. You can however use an offboard controller such as the Dastek Unichip, tell it you've not got a lambda and then you can manually configure you're own fuelling tables. Not sure what sort of results you'll get though. If you just unplug the lambda, the ECU will moan but it will load a rich map. I've seen quite a few VRs running OK with a dead probe but it'll cause low mpgs and a lack of power. It's just in the midrange though, at WOT the lambda is ignored. I'd personally leave it there as I've no real complaints about the VR's mid
  7. 3.68 does make a difference over 3.39 as I have one in my VR. I didn't want to go down the 3.94 route as my car is a daily driver and I want to keep it sensible. The 3.94 would give you MK2 16V gearing, which is too short for a daily used VR imo and it will cane your fuel. The 3.68 pulls 90mph at 4000rpm instead of 100mph and 5th always seems to be in the usable torque range from 70 onwards. With the standard 3.39 a drop to 4th is needed to get any real sensation of acceleration from 70. No need with the 3.68. Low speed pick up is better too. The 3.68 will pull 158.3mph at 7000rpm. 3.39
  8. Use Highline hoses from the dealer if you can't source the Goodridges, they're not that expensive. Or you can just get a Goodridge MK4 6 line set and fit the MK4 rear calipers too which are miles better than the MK2/MK3 ones. Well, my 312s are fully run in now and they're absolutely awesome! I used to get into modern cars and wish the VR's brakes were that good, but now it's the other way round ;-)
  9. One thing you can do is fit a lower final drive from a Corrado G60. it's 3.68 compared to the VR's taller 3.39. In short it gives you better acceleration. I had a full rebuild done at stealth and added the aforementioned shorter crownwheel and a quaife LSD. It's simply stunning, the quality of Vince's rebuilds are second to none, he used to work for Gemini gearboxes in his early days, so knows them like the back of his hand. The improved acceleration is very noticable in 5th, you no longer need to drop to 4th at 70mph to get the engine into the 4000rpm power band. It's not crazy low, 4000r
  10. Sure... I got all the stuff through Raj at NSRacing but he sourced it all from Steven's VW breakers in Chelmsford. If you go for this, make sure they include the small loom that connects the transponder box to the OBD2 port otherwise you'll be stuffed.
  11. There are loads of differences, would take too long to explain *all* of them, but as Ultimate tune says, better fuelling and ignition are two of it's benefits. Superior idling is another, they never ever stall unless the stepper motor gets tired. My Corrado was always stalling when it was OBD1, N/A and charged. If you're a VAG COM user then you'll love OBD2. It has 30 usable measuing blocks compared to OBD1's 5 or 6. OBD2 also reports knock, Mass air flow and percentage of lambda whereas with OBD1 it's guesswork. During a dyno run, you can data log those 3 measuring blocks and read it after
  12. Late VR6s use 288 x 25mm discs. Earlier ones used 280 x 22mm discs. The 288 (ATE) setup uses much bigger pads than the 280 (Lucas/Girling) setup. Your 97 will have the ATE 288 brakes. You can easily distinguish 288s from 280s because the 288 calipers have a wire clamp on the front of them, which you can see through the wheel spokes. I think some cars had wear sensors. You'll soon know when you take the old ones off as there'll be a wire attached to one of the pads on each side. Stick some Ferodo DS2500 pads on and be amazed :-)
  13. VAG-COM is needed really. What we need is a regionalised thread stating who has it and what regions they can cover. We did that on the Corrado forum and it's been hugely successful. I've done countless scans and sent most people home no longer fearing the worst ;-) With OBD2, do as Justin said but leave it on ignition stage 2 for 2 mins, then start it and let it idle for about 2 mins also. If no joy, your stepper motor could be faulty and that's a big
  14. Standard VAG exhausts are fine with blowers, well, the Corrado Lientz one is at least. The only downside is the Rado system is VERY heavy! Milltek system weighs about a 3rd of it! I have a Milltek sports cat (100 cell) on my blown VR and it doesn't feel any different to when I had a SuperSprint bypass on there.
  15. Mine is set to -1.2 neg camber and +0.05 toe out. Didn't want any more than that as I use 17" F1s or SO3s and they're not cheap! I'd also recommend vibratech mounts all round and vibratech rear wishbone bushes. Good handling is aided by keeping the engine as still as possible and also reducing wishbone lateral movement.
  16. You can try self amalgamating pipe repair tape. It's initially tack free but when you wind it round the looms tightly, it bonds itself together and forms a very tough and long lasting wrap. The VW cloth wrap only lasts a few years and then tack dries out and you're left with the familiar lengths of cloth dangling about aimlessly in the bay. Gone are the days of MK2 looms sheathed in plastic tubing. Cost cutting you see. Even current BMW and merc looms are cheaply bound with low grade tapes, even regular insulating tape in the X5!
  17. The Corrado's handling is largely down to the different camber and castor angles it uses compared to the MK3 and also track correcting rear axle bushes. I'm not sure if the MK3 VR6 got the latter but the part numbers seem to be the same as the Corrado ones. Who knows with VW? Another thing the C has in it's favour is lower centre of gravity as mentioned earlier. All the dead mass is lower, and that includes the occupants ;-) A MK3 can be made to handle as well as a Corrado easily....just fit decent suspension, a fat rear ARB and 1.2 degrees negative camber.
  18. Vehicle speed sensor is the black sender on the gearbox which is connected to the final drive.
  19. Yeah used to have that setup on my VR and it's OK. Nothing fills a power hole better than a charger though!
  20. Steaming windows normally indicates a weeping heater matrix or a faulty window/door seal somewhere. Check you're not losing any coolant. If you are, it could be the matrix.
  21. They're easy enough to do yourself. VW sell the individual foam portions of the seats. I rebuilt my Corrado driver's seat last year and thigh and bum boltsers were less than
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