FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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The "cold air feed" isn't essential, it's been proven on a dyno to make zero difference to the power. It does quieten induction roar down a bit though. If you do want it, any old 82mm bore flexi hose will do, such as this - http://www.revotec.com/details.asp?ID=207
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He he, yeah you need a diff. Great in the dry, but still not much help in the wet. You just spin both wheels instead of 1, LOL!
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Yep, they do indeed. There are loads of K04 variants and the RS6 spec one is one of, if not THE biggest flowing version.
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Schimmel 263 cams or Autotech 262 cams. Both are excellent and should take your motor to 200hp easily.
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If you want decent top end I would be using a pair of RS6 spec K04s
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HGP usually mod their turbos. Somewhere between a TD04 and TD05 as a guess, size wise. Only 1.5 Litre per bank, so something pretty small to get reasonable spool times.
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I'm glad you found this interesting :-) The thing that amazes me is the turbo is pulling in air from the back of the headlight like the standard engine does and it still goes like stink :-) Yeah with the flywheel my Corrado has always had some vibration between 2500-3000rpm. I've not felt this vibration in Golfs, so could just be a Corrado thing. My light flywheel made that vibration worse, but you're right, it won't effect everybody. I went out in Tom's S/C'd Golf VR6 (can't remember his username but he's the one with the Eaton M90 on it) and his has 3 VF Engineering poly mounts on it and
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Yeah you need good tyres in the wet! :-)
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IF CHANGE TO NON CAT LAMDA SENSOR WILL MY VR6 GAIN EXTRA PERFORMANCE?
FishWick replied to faigolfgti's topic in Engine Tuning
I've never heard of a VR6 not running a cat and having a seperate lambda for non cat applications. You won't get any more power unless you remap the ECU. The lambda does not affect power output, all it does is tell the ECU how much oxygen is in the exhaust. -
Stock reg - I needed to create more room for the stock airbox to fit how I wanted, so it had to go. Plus you can't beat a stock reg in the stock location to maintain even pressure across all 6 injectors. My goals are more focused on OE+ than power :-) Power - No idea, same as before I suspect. Around 400hp. Ford idle valve - Why not? :-) The original VR6 3 pin valve is a strange beast. requiring PWM control in 2 directions. The Ford valve is a much simpler and more reliable 1 way valve. Panel beater, nah, new wing mate!
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Yeah it's all good! Funny thing is, I added a cat converter (3" ATP) recently, and that hasn't affected the performance either! :-) I'm starting to wonder how much of the claims air filter and exhaust manufacturers make is a load of cobblers! A couple of caveats though. Obviously my findings haven't been verified on a dyno and I'm not running much boost (13psi) but I've driven this car with a turbo for 3 years nearly and I can tell what works and what doesn't :-) I suspect cats and stock air boxes may prove restrictive running high boost, or would they? Food for thought!
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A few updates... Middle silencer removed..... ...and replaced with a 3" Cat converter and resonator. The original Setrab chargecooler rad was a tad small I thought, but worked well. I've replaced it with a LHD air con radiator and that's dropped temps a fair bit due to the larger cooling area, plus it all fits neatly being a VW part :-) The flow has slowed down a bit due to the restriction of the rad, but I'll get a beefier pump! Ford Duratec idle valve added, SX fuel reg deleted and stock regulator added plus some minor tidying up :-) To balance the pleasure, I had some pain a couple o
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I know there are a few guys looking to turbo their VR6, so this may be of interest if you're wondering about air filters etc. Practically every VRT I've seen has a cone filter on the end of a 3" inlet pipe. I'm not sure if this just a popular / easy way to do it, or whether there is a performance advantage. So I did some experimenting to find out :-) Here are the various filter methods I've tried over a 6 month period on the roads. Daily, of course :-) 1) A long pipe going into the wheel arch with a cone on the end. 2) A cone on the end of a pipe in the engine bay 3) A BMC CDA in it's usua
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Yeah check the plugs. Jumping a big gap is harder work for the coils when the cylinder pressures increase and can easy cause a misfire. Check also the MAF for contamination etc, especially this time of year being down in the wing (i assume?).
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IF CHANGE TO NON CAT LAMDA SENSOR WILL MY VR6 GAIN EXTRA PERFORMANCE?
FishWick replied to faigolfgti's topic in Engine Tuning
OBD1 and OBD2 lambdas are slightly different, so could be a problem. Lambda is ignored at full throttle anyway, so it would only cause a problem on part throttle. As for peformance gains using a different lambda, there won't be any. That isn't what lambda sensors are for. Their job is to ensure the engine runs at 14.7 AFR to protect the cat converter, no other reason :-) -
I love what you've done with the standard inlet manifold to cover up the short runner :-)
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Good stuff!! I feel this is a sticky worthy thread :-)
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Duration @ 1mm: 220 Duration @.050" : 215 Lift: .400" Lobe center: 115 Intake open @ .050": -7.6deg (7.6deg BTDC)
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The schimmel intake provides a nice linear plot. The standard intake shows a small midrange advantage around 4000rpm, but look at how abruptly the power drops off past 6000. I was approached by a nice gentleman in the United States about a rather special intake, so I'm in talks with him and will hopefully get one in the new year :-) Proof? LOL, you'll never get it. No one is prepared to put their reputation on the line and demonstrate how and why Schimmel's intake is so rubbish compared to theirs ;-) I've even asked the people who claim to have the best manifold to send me one and I'l
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Yeah, Schimmel is the only shortie maker I've seen provide a dyno plot so far. Standard engine with a panel filter, before and after - http://www.spturbo.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=223
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Yes. Need the R32 pump to go with it though as it has a different pick up head, which VW don't sell seperately. Apart from that, it's identical to the 12V pump rather annoyingly. An R32 sump will lift it above wishbone bolt level, so the subframe will get clouted before the sump does .
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It doesn't really have much of a plenum volume and the runners are short but that's not necessarily a bad thing. As for evidence, it's a debate you'll need to get into with the Vortexers mate. Lot's of talk of improvments, but no evidence to back it up! They don't seem to understand that some people LIKE, or WANT the characteristics of a shortie intake because they've made other changes to their car to make it more responsive in the midrange anyway, such as shorter gearing, light flywheels, quick spooling turbos etc etc. The VR6 is quite a large capacity engine in a ~1200Kg car remember, so
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The plastic inlet is a nice design. Clever tuning and it doesn't wick heat out of the engine, so runs cooler....but....it is schitt quality. Obvious cost cutting if ever I saw it. You can visibly see the plenum next to the throttle body expand and collapse when opening / closing the throttle quickly. You really cannot use the stock inlet for boost. I don't care what anyone says. As for weight, the R32 is within a few kilos of the 12V's weight and if you use slim line front fans and relocate the battery for the MK5 air box, then you can shift a little weight off the nose.
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I have the Schimmel 9lb flywheel in mine and if the gearbox comes off again, the standard flywheel is going back in. Yes light flywheels make the motor spin up quicker but the resultant vibration you get in return (more so with stiff mounts) doesn't make it worth it as a daily driver imo. And you usually get a bit of clutch judder with light flywheels aswell.
