FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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I'd always build 8.5:1 on a VRT personally. You need 8:1 pistons with the 3 layer gasket to get a final static CR of 8.5:1 Schimmel sell a set of JEs machined to that spec and Wossner's 8.5:1 pistons are in fact 8:1.
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Yep and I wouldn't really class it as a 'kit' really as it will still need a certain amount of custom work!
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£995 for a GT35 is a great price. Those rip off merchants Owen Developments will sting you about £1300 for one of them. Is that place these people? - http://www.gt3turbo.com/Merchant/home.php If so, glad they're good. I thought it was too good to be true someone in Essex selling ATP's catalogue, hurrah!!! Bodge, soft cut = ignition only and Hard cut = fuel and ignition. It's amazing how easily and quickly a VRT can spin it's rev counter off the end of the scale, so you've got to reign that bad boy in :-) 993 turbos have massive cooling fans and much bigger fins on the heads mate. They
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Cool, looking forward to the results.
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Yeah as has been said before, the 2 important parts to note are 1) it's based around a clone of the ATP manifold, which is for LHD cars and 2) the turbo is small and won't sustain the top end. As for the rest of it, who knows. Looks like a bunch of generic bits and bobs of not great quality. In a nutshell - Buy it and see. It's a cheap punt onto the turbo ladder isn't it? 1) Isn't that much of an issue though to be honest. The DIY turbo guide uses an ATP manifold and shows you how to over come the brake fluid pot clearance issues :-)
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So you want 8psi as a peak and for it all to be there from 2000rpm, and I guess hold it to 7000rpm aswell? A few small turbos can acheive the 2K bit, but holding it to 7K will be the problem area. Personally I would aim to bring the boost in at 3500rpm and have a 3500rpm window. That's a lot easier to achieve. It's the classic turbo sizing compromise :-) No supercharger other than a positive displacement will make 8psi by 2000rpm.
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Agreed on the mechanical sympathy. I've been really lucky with my gearbox, over 40K around the 400hp mark and no breakages yet. Some of that I put down to turbo sizing - later spool. Some it I put down to gearing - I have the lower final drive from the G60 in my gearbox, so the car has more momentum behind it by the time the boost comes in, plus the gears are easier to turn, so less stress on the gear and the rest, I put down to not hammering the gas if I know spin - regrip will occur. The gears break when traction is regained very abruptly and in some respects, having cheap tyres can
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LOL, yeah I guess I'm a big boost junkie :-) That's just how it worked out though due to losing my two GT30s :-( If something breaks, I like to move up a rung or two and try something new :-) The 35R is a tank of a turbo, really tough and for me it comes in exactly where I need it, but it does depend on your local roads and how you like to drive. I like fighting with tailgating reps on the motorways and the 35R is such a perfect weapon for humiliating them with. With my GT30Rs and standard head / cams, I would pull a few car lengths on my chosen foe immediately, but by 5500ish, the lead
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Yeah, as mentioned in the rods and pistons thread, I've used the GT3071, 3076 and a currently I'm on a 35R. All have / had 0.82 housings and the 3071 was pretty much unusable at 12psi, let alone anything more. My 3076 was a nice unit, but only lasted 500 miles due to a manufacturing fault, then I thought feck it, let's go 35R and I've really enjoyed that turbo so far. When it hits, it hits harder than the GT30Rs but the beauty is like you say, a little slower onset of boost to give the tyres a fighting chance....and the torque is higher up the revs, so doesn't smash 3rd gear to peices eithe
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I love it when folk build an engine for boost :-) Nothing wrong with spacers, to a point, but going forged and rods is the way to go :-) 82mm pistons will give you a Corrado block Mark. 2861cc. I run 83mm wossners in mine, which is 2931cc or something, but it's done over 40K, daily, and it's been a great engine. Good point raised about bore walls, which is why my 24V turbo lump is staying 81mm, but I'm looking at using an R32 crank with modded pistons to make a true 3.0 24V, which will be strong for boost. If that's possible that is. It's still in the early research stage at the moment. I
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My VR6 turbo, Haldex 4wd. The end....
FishWick replied to legvw's topic in Members Rides and Event Photos
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They move the powerband further up the revs. Good cams don't affect the idle or low end. Dougherty racing are good, as are Autotech etc. I've used Schrick's 268s and they definitely make the bottom end flat and give a slightly lumpy idle when the engine's hot. Also consider Autotech 262 and Schimmel 263. Both are very good and improve bottom end aswell as top end. Idle is factory, if not better.
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8 psi turbo will get you 300-310hp with a good map on stock compression. T3/T04e a good budget choice, with 0.82 turbine housing
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I've used a BMC on my VR6 Turbo for nearly 3 years. Everything else was either too noisy or made the motor feel flat off boost. The BMC works great and reduces turbo noise too. They've recently launched an oval version of it to help with space difficulties, but it's feckin expensive!!
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The rods or pistons (or both) will be chinese replicas at that price. Not necessarily a bad thing, but if you're paying for a brand name you expect it to be genuine. Walbro went through a bad time with chinese copies of their pumps failing. They were EXACT copies, you could not tell the difference..... except where it mattered most.
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I'd use this as a minimum personally and it can be purchased through any Bosch place - http://www.boschmotorsandcontrols.co.uk/elektromotoren/aggregate/wasserumwaelzpumpen/0392022003/index.htm Or this one is a lot better - http://www.meziere.com/ps-892-0-WP136S.aspx
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Yep, as C2 say but ignore the Emerald manual if it says the cam position sensor needs 5V. Some do, but the VR6 one needs 12V ;-) If the Emerald has switchable batch / sequential, it's a good idea to start the motor in batched mode because whilst cranking, the cam sensor may not recieve 12V from the battery and therefore not give a signal. It's how DTA do it. I.e. Switches to sequential when the engine is running. Yeah the inductive sensor wiring can be confusing on aftermarket ECUs because as you say, you have a signal and ground and that's it.....but VW did us a favour by shielding the s
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Yeah the 35R is a nice unit :-). It has a very good top end / midrange compromise imo.
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You've wired the crank sensor as a Hall sensor mate, it needs to be wired as an inductive. Refer to page 55 of the manual. Needs to be like this mate:- 31 - Signal - Green or red 32 - Signal Ground - Green or Red 30 - Shield Ground - Black I can't remember with the VW wiring which is the signal, but connect a voltmeter to the sensor and wave a bit of metal in front of it and it will show a small voltage on the signla wire. That's the one that goes to pin 31 on the Emerald.
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The switched live from the ECU relay on my OBD2 loom is black / grey and that's the one I use to switch my DTA. That's what you need to find. As for the earths, the Emerald only needs one of them and I think from Memory the plain brown one is the best one to use. The other 2 could be signal grounds, have you traced them back to their source?
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The 24V I picked up cheap and is a backup engine in case the 12V blows / wears out. But I think you're right, I'm starting to question the need for it now. The 12V is working nicely so I'm probably trying to fix something that isn't broken :-) I know if I get rid of the 24V, the good omen of having a spare engine will go with it and the 12V will die the next day! Sods law. The 24V head is the main reason for wanting to go that route. Shame it doesn't bolt onto the 12V block. It flows more and the injectors are MUCH better placed aswell. It just runs smoother and sweeter too.
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That was ages ago, I run a turbo now. That was no intercooler at all, just water injection. That was an OBD2 chip mapped by Stealth Racing I use a standalone now and do my own mapping :-)
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Thanks for the info, very helpful indeed. The reason I'm asking these questions is because the 24V engine I've got is the AUE (I think, it's an early coilpack one) and I'm still debating whether or not to stick with it or get something better. I thought the "On/off" 'VVT' on 1.8Ts was purely to get loads of air through the head during warm up to reduce emissions? Sounds like the AUE is similar. And the VVT on the R32 / BDE is more for boosting midrange peformance?
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Exhaust size isn't that important with Superchargers. I ran the stock 2.25" system on my Stage 3 (12 psi) Vortech and it made 320hp easily.
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Good stuff! The tacho signal comes from the ECU, or it should do at least! You need to set it to output 3 tacho pulses per rev and the thin green/black wire in the ECU harness is the input for the rev counter ;-)
