FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Well the way stealth do it is they give you a loom containing labeled wires telling you want to connect them to. The ECU has it's own relay and fuse board and they integrate that into the loom for you, so all you need is a battery live, switched live, and fuel pump live and that's it in terms of power supply. The rest plugs and plays onto the engine as that is a seperate loom aswell that hooks straight into the ECU.
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Cool. Do you mean the Precision 6265? Looks a nice turbo. Do they use Garrett CHRAs and make their own compressor wheel and housings then?
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Sharky, all you need to do is make sure the lambda and MAF get their power from the fuel pump relay as they need 12V whilst cranking and to only run when the engine's running.
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I don't think they'd do it. Too many variables with turbo setups. You'd be better off with a custom map mate.
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Yep, sounds good! It may appear that I'm making myself out to be the expert with this, but I'm not, LOL!! Just passing on what I've learned along the way with helping a mate with his install :-) I've still got a 24V lump to install in my own car at some point. Not aided by my dealer mate telling me VAG have a brand new AQP 24V block (3.2 from an early TT) complete with pistons, crank etc, ready assembled for £450 inc VAT! Don't need that sort of temptation when I'm trying to budget!!!
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Apparently new Polos have electric heaters instead of heater matrixes Sharky. Could be an option? £10K, LOL! Some companies quote daft prices like that just to get you off the phone and / or to see if you're serious or not. The actual price would be less than £10K I suspect, but they have to allow for 'unexpected' costs. Trouble is, you'll be waiting for weeks, maybe months as they'll just fit it in around other jobs and not devote their time to it. "Sorting the gearing" I suspect means toning down the throttle response as it's very vicious with the standard mapping. They take some
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Nope, mine's still nice and toasty :-) How does the coolant maintain system pressure with no header tank? Is this some kind of 'cleaned engine bay' thing? I'm not sure if the aux pump is there to 'assist' the main pump, or just to circulate water after shut down to avoid localised hotspots round the back of the block, where the hot manifold starts 'wicking' heat into the head. Either way, I binned it, and have not yet suffered any consequences. I will one day put another pump back on, but a bigger more powerful one.
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Why does that matter? The T3/T04E has been around even longer and is still popular and works well. Got any dyno plots showing a precision the same size and trim as a GT35 kicking it's ass?
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It's up to you mate. I've not used the aux pump for ages and not had any problems - yet, LOL!
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Not sure mate, sorry. Are you still gonna turbo your 4 mo lump?
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That's it Sharky, cheers for the pic, paints a 1000 words! Another thing I've thought of is the electric water pump. On the MK5 it sits in front of the block behind the radiator, but it's easier to just use the 12V coolant hoses and mount it in the normal place, and just extend the pump loom over to it. I don't know why VW moved the waterpumps to the front. 1.8Ts are the same.
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I don't know about other companies' date=' but with Stealth Racing, if you give them your ECU and loom from the MK5, they will give you back a loom and instructions to 'plug and play' into your existing wiring. And you also get a 280hp remap, deimmobilised, default coded and ready to go. Once in and running, you can then trim out all the redundant OBD1/2 wiring. I've already helped a mate put a full MK5 setup into his Corrado and Stealth's ECU 'package' started and ran first turn as if it were in the stock vehicle :-) To do it to OE standards, a MK5 bracket welded to the floor is a nice way
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No the bracket is too deep if anything. The difference is just taken up with a solid spacer, or washers, but a lot of people strengthen the bracket for good measure. You use the 12V oil cooler because the 24V one is too big and fouls the 12V front engine mount bracket. Seriously, it's all peice of cake stuff and it all makes sense when you drop the motor in.
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It's hard to explain but where the front bracket hooks around the block and starter motor with the long bolt going through the middle, well that bit is different on the R32. Not sure about the 2.8 24V. Basically, when you fit the 12V front mount bracket to an R32, you're left with a gap that needs filling with a spacer or a bunch of washers as I've seen some people do. Some people sell a modified bracket but I've not seen one in person. I thought C2 sold one but looking on their site, they don't list it.
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If you use a MK5 engine, they have electric steering, so you will need an alternator bracket from a Golf 4Motion to mount your VR6 steering pump onto and then all is well. You retain the R32 alternator. If you get a MK4 donor engine, they're hydraulic steering like the VR6, so goes straight in! MK5 engines also have return-less fuel rails, so you can either use a MK4 fuel rail, or a 3 way remote fuel pressure regulator (in, out, return) mounted to the rail or the inner wing. The battery location depends on what air filter you use although in the MK3 golf you might have room to mount a decent
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If you stick with the standard gearbox, then yep, straight in. The front engine mount bracket needs modifying slightly but C2 sell some bits to help with that and they also sell some lovely downpipes, which look a LOT better than other methods I've seen. The tricky part is the management. Bosch ME7 is a thing of beauty but it needs careful deactivation of certain things for it to work properly in a conversion. Stealth Racing, VAG-Doctor and I presume C2 can all help with that.
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That doesn't look too bad actually! Plenum volume looks a little small, but it is tapered for even air flow though. With something like that at that price level, you're not sure how much science has been applied to it or whether it's just been cobbled together onto stock runners. Intake tuning is bloody complicated, especially on an awkward engine like the VR6! It still baffles me.
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Exactly mate. It's all about compromise. If you're fitting a decent size turbo you simply cannot use the stock intake manifold, so a short runner is the only option. And then you have to find one that fits! Luckily Schimmel is a Corrado fan and developed all this products on that car, so they will also fit a MK3/MK4 easily :-)
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Shcimmel's intake has been subjected to much criticism over the years. Probably because of it's price. Seemingly expensive kit is usually always attacked by the DIY heros as a rip off, especially on the Vortex site :-) For me it's the combination of being a proper cast piece and the research he put into it that sold it to me. And for the reasons stated by Shaun. It makes the boost path shorter and neater and the engine more responsive. You see plenty of cut and shut specials out there, all claiming to be the best intake around, but none of them post up any dyno plots. Schimmel does though
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Hey mate. I live near Colchester so you're welcome to have a nose round my install if it helps? That manifold will be fine chap. It's basically the same ATP one I use, but without the branding. The port shape doesn't look that great but can be rectified with a little grind stone action :-) If you get one of those manifolds, can you let me know as I wouldn't mind taking a butchers at it!
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Always replace the tappets. For £6 each for genuine INA ones from GSF, is it worth taking a risk? The shape of the cam lobes spins the tappets round aswell as pushing them up and down. If the tappets don't spin round due to abnormal or incomplete bed-in, severe wear of the cam lobes will occur. And guess what? I've only seen that happen when putting new cams on old buckets :-) I've got a picture of the damage at home somewhere, I'll have to post it up! You can sometimes get away with it. Depends how old the tappets are and what abuse they've been subjected to, but personally I wouldn't
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And turbo users seldom stick to their planned maximum boost :-) Personally I would go 8.5:1 anyway because when you start inevitably messing with boost controllers, it's easy to run into over boost. An accidental spike of 15psi if you're setup for half that can cause some damage.
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Stick the block in the boot and take it down to a tyre/exhaust place and get them to spin it off with their air-gun :-) Driven 10:1, 9:1 and 8.5.1 forced induction VR6s and they all feel the same. People think dropping to 8.5:1 completely ruins the throttle response and low end torque, but it doesn't. Well, it does a little bit, but only something like 10lb-ft around 1500rpm and a little drop around 3000rpm, but you don't really notice it that much due to the tidal wave of torque that happens on boost! Good mapping will make the engine feel good everywhere, so it's not a problem. If you're
