Jump to content

FishWick

Members
  • Content Count

    2,636
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by FishWick

  1. This time of year you should be using winter tyres. I use Continental TS800 195/50/15, which are only £57 each if you buy 4 from KwikFit. They are night / day better than even the best summer tyre in all conditions lower than 7 deg C.
  2. Brake line spec is 3/16 SAE single flare with 11mm unions. Line choices are VAG coated steel, copper or Cupronickel which is a copper-nickel alloy. If you want to do it properly and use nice VAG steel lines and ends (availble from the dealer) then you're going to need a good tool like this to flare the ends properly - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0012MB482/ref=asc_df_B0012MB4821407420?smid=A29TH01F0VDAOP&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22218&creativeASIN=B0012MB482 If you want to use copper, and do it in situ, something like this should suffice - http://www.amazon.co.u
  3. The head worked out at £1200 3 years ago. Not sure you can go 3mm over size on both valves as they'll hit each other!
  4. It will be good mate. I started off with a turbo on the standard head and cams. Then popped on a Schimmel head and 263 cams and it was a different engine. Shed loads gruntier everywhere in the rev range, Schimmel's head has the parts you listed. Exhaust valves are inconel to handle the heat and those and the intakes are 1mm bigger. Cutback stems and guides, titanium caps and keepers, HD springs, gasket matched intake ports, 3 angle valve seat etc etc. It really does make a difference :-)
  5. Nah, has to be a VR6 box because of the bell housing, unless you want to get into box and housing swapping antics! VR6 boxes go for peanuts usually and it would be a handy spare to keep around and rebuild with an LSD anyway......cause you will need it with a turbo! Looking forward to a vid clip of this beast running on a bench :-)
  6. This is before going turbo I assume? Lambda will sort it out at idle and part throttle, but full throttle might be a touch rich, but VR6s like a bit of fuel up there anyway.
  7. Don't need the R32 pedal box, just a DBW pedal from the same model year car, that will fit your car neatly. Can get a Caddy or TDI one new from the dealer for about £45. Or triple that if you really want the flashy metal 'R' covering on it! And I would make a real effort to get the DBW pedal loom because it's not part of the engine harness and people often leave it. Otherwise it's a right ball ache getting the right pedal connector from the dealers. Try to get everything from the same car and don't mix and match MK4 and MK5 parts. Use the R32 iron headers with a standard 12V downpipe.
  8. Cool, even easier then! Immobilisers can be defeated with a new chip but you'd be better off waiting until the turbo needs mapping etc.
  9. No point, you'll only see a few hp difference. It's not what a NA remap is all about. It's all about making it more responsive low down by being a damn site more generous with the ignition advance than VW were ;-)
  10. Yeah Ian's a sound bloke and very fairly priced throttles. The bore is opened out and a bigger plate fitted. A really nice peice of work! Wait till it's turboed mate, no point paying for mapping 2 or 3 times :-)
  11. DG Autotech do a good VR6 map for £195 inc VAT http://www.dgautotech.com/dgauto/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=151&Itemid=108
  12. Yep. Stealth can get them as well.
  13. Here you go chap, undercut Supertech valves - http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/supertvalves-vw.html Standard and oversize choices are listed on there :-)
  14. Sounds like an OBD1 Corrado 2.9. They were immobilised 1995-1996, ECU part number should end CP. Engine number starts ABV. If you go standalone, let me know, I'll send you a decent DTA map.
  15. I would personally use Ferrea valves. Been using them myself for over 50K miles now. Supertech make some good valves too. For a throttle, if yours is OBD2, can't be done. If it's OBD1, Ian can do you one. Alpina527@aol.com
  16. LOL, that's the lazy tuner's way. More flow into the engine from the same boost. Why push 20psi to make 400whp when you can get it from 15?
  17. Better off fitting bigger valves and throttle than massaging the ports imo.
  18. You do on a turbo engine. The right cam free off 50 or more hp from the same boost. 268 for better top end 256 / 262 / 263 etc for meatier midrange
  19. You should join the Corrado forum. Lupo wipers is old news. Threre's a huge thread about MK1 TT wipers and they are massively better.
  20. Don't mess with the throttle. The only way to improve flow is by enlarging the throttle plate, which is not a DIY job. And if your engine is OBD2, you can forget that anyway! Some people fit the Corrado throttle which is minus the hump, but said hump actually speeds up gas flow at low openings to improve torque. Don't waste your money on filters and exhausts, they don't increase power, they just make more noise. Schimmel cams, remap and shorter final drive will certainly make it more accelerative.
  21. The 3.68:1 crown wheel is over £200+VAT from VW, so s/hand is your only realistic option really. I paid 50 quid for mine. Stealth rebuild gearboxes quite often and usually have crown wheels kicking around, that's where I got mine from. Or there's a guy on ClubGTI called 'HotGolf' who also builds boxes and usually has some. As advised, get another gearbox to build up in the meantime, then you can just swap em over at your leisure. Good time to bung an LSD in whilst you're there :-) You'll be loving the traction and acceleration out of corners!
  22. 1.8T intercoolers are barely adequate for a 1.8T, let alone a VR6 :-) I saw a so called uprated one on my mate's MK4 GTI with K04-001 upgrade, hit 70 deg intake temps after 4 dyno runs!! Ibiza Cupra TDIs have a full width front mount which might be up to the job though. Stealth sell a nice size one but you also need to consider the car it's going in. MK3 and MK2 are OK but the Corrado has ballacks all room for a front mount without hacking up the front panel. So that's why I went with a chargecooler. A bit more baggage to carry around but maintains the car's structural integrity. Air - Water
  23. Yeah, in the days before forced induction the "Big 3" used to make around 225-230hp. Said 3 being:- Schrick VGI intake Schrick 268 cams AMD Enlarged throttle body And by the latter, I mean a bigger throttle plate, not one of those pointless mirror polished things you see on ebay. Aplina527@aol.com actually made the throttles for AMD back in the day and he still does them now as far as I know. Used to be £150 exchange. not sure what they are now. A very nice guy to deal with. If you're loaded, you could try the "Big 4" which adds a Schrick Big valve head to the party too. VR6s do respond w
×
×
  • Create New...