FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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DSG :-)
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If it's Garrett turbo, the threaded holes are M14 x 1.5 Google "GT35R water fittings" and there's tonnes of info and fittings available. I seriously would not use rubber hoses, even with that aluminiumised fibreglass heat shielding. Have a look in my DIY Turbo thread for a good way of making robust water lines that last. Steel hard line is the best way to do it but you need expensive bending and flaring tools to do it properly.
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I'm running DTA S80 mate. If you want to run your standalone I can send you some numbers that I know to be safe and work well. Any progress with your running problem?
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Sorry for spannering your works mate :-) 1.06 housing on the GT35R slows the spool up approx 500rpm, but the trade off is more top end power, especially if you've got 268 cams as well! If I was to build a MK2 VRT, that is exactly the combo I would use to take advantate of the car's low weight! For the heavier MK3 and Corrado, the 0.82 with SP 263 cams is a nice compromise, balancing midrange torque and top end shove pretty much spot on for a road car, in my opinion :-) You would love the mid range thump of the 0.63 but you would also be entering into the gearbox breaking zone and the top
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LOL, so you spent your evening spinning turbo blades :-) Yeah no turbo should have lateral play otherwise blades strart hitting housings when it spins up. That can happen when thrust bearings wear out though, so a good quality, clean oil is essential for long turbo life.
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Ball Bearing turbos have a little up-down play in the turbo shaft, a smaller oil inlet (usually come with a brass restrictor too) and they spin by hand easily and freely when held perfefly horizontal. Journal turbos have larger oil inlets and tend to slow down pretty quickly when spun up by hand. You can also cross reference the CHRA number if its a genuine Garrett. CHRA being the bearing housing, or the big inbetween the two wheels.
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I hope I don't come across as condascending or lecturey etc as that isn't my intention! It's just that I've seen so many times people try a particular modification and not been that happy with it. All I'm trying to do is help people make the right decision first time round because it's soooooooo much cheaper in the long run! Don't get me wrong, I'm not anti S/Cs. The Rotrex is a nice bit of kit and I've seen some good results from them, but if people want uber midrange grunt, it's gotta be a turbo :-) Oil lines etc aren't difficult. I didn't know anything about turbos either when I di
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LOL, It amazes me how long turbos and S/Cs have been discussed on this forum (nearly 5 years!) and STILL people never mention, or take into account, the torque delivery differences between the two :-) 260hp isn't just 260hp. BHP is simply torque multiplied by rpm. You can get 260hp train engines that make 1000lb/ft torque and you can get 260hp racing engines that make 100lb/ft torque. Two engines with the same horsepower, but drive VERY differently. Before deciding on an arbitary hp number like that, people first need to be clear in their minds what it is they want from their car. In a t
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640cc, going for some tasty boost pressure then! Yeah OK, let's see what the MAF does then. With your setup I'd probably be using the MS anyway tbh. You can kill an engine just as easily with Motronic as you can a standalone! I've done 4 years and nearly 60K miles with standalone and no knock control. No pitting on the piston crowns. If you get the timing right, you don't need knock :-) Obviously you'll need a second map for 95 unleaded but that's no problem.
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When the rich / lean thing happens during warmup, is that at or just after 70 deg water temp? What size injectors are you using and what is the tune set for? Is it the C2 42lb tune? I see you're running the rail at 4 bar, but should be 3 bar if it's the 42 tune. 4 bar means 15% more fuelling the lambda is having to take out at idle and part throttle. It's just a guess but it kind of sounds lambda related. Don't cut it up!! I'm sure we'll get to the bottom of it eventually. I've been through all this several times but in the end I just went standalone because I was fed up with MAF sensor
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A motor and 2 chargers, that's 3 lots of load to drive. You'd be better of just connecting a motor in place of the Rotrex's gearbox, and that's only one load :-) But why do that when the Rotrex already runs efficiently via it's mechanical drive? This is inventing for the sake of inventing instead of tackling a problem :-) Nice concept though and motors will almost certainly feature in boosted engines in the future. Just enjoy a good old fashioned gas guzzling VR turbo whilst you still can! And your idea is already in place on Audi's current V6 S/C engine. Well, of sorts. They way th
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Is your engine OBD1 mate? Well you certainly know what you're doing and have covered all the bases, so it's difficult to know what to suggest next! If the AFR changes when pulling the MAF, that means the ECU was using it to meter the fuelling and hadn't bypassed it, so that's a good sign. So after the idle valve has done it's thing and the revs drop down, that's when it all goes to schitt?
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That's a nice short runner intake you've made there, well done fella. My guess is the MAF is too close to the turbo. Do you have any stainless mesh over the 4" tube to straighten the air? Pre-MAF element end of the tube. Think of the turbo compressor creating a whirlpool as it sucks in air and the middle of the whirlpool has less air than the edges, which is where the MAF element sits. In the middle, getting less air! Does it idle OK with the MAF plug pulled? As a suggestion, try the stainless mesh, then move the MAF and filter as far away from the turbo as possible, then try a new MAF.
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Is that your car in your Avatar? Looks like a 24V Turbo MK1? Changing the alternator won't make a difference if the 70A is charging. What car do you have? I doubt it will ever pull more than 70A unless you have 4 x 100W spot lamps or something. Look at the batt voltage in VAG-COM. If it's ~14V when cold and ~13.5V when hot, it's working fine. ECU and injectors won't start playing up until <10V is seen. Given what you've checked and replaced, it's bound to be something simple you have yet to spot. You just need to take a methodical approach and go back to basics. You say you repla
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LOL! There is something quite embarrassnig and chavvy about the Rip speed section isn't there? I think it's those hideous pink steering wheels and gay 5" back boxes......
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help quick before it starts snowing again (bmc cda)
FishWick replied to grom's topic in Engine Tuning
BMC CDAs don't come with a silicon MAF coupling. Only Stealth Racing supply that with the BMCs they sell. They have to physically cut a portion of silicon for you and pop it in the box. Can't really blame BMC unfortunately because it's a generic filter and not VR6 specific. -
Brakes, its a wierd one
FishWick replied to VeedubVR's topic in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Could also be a leaking servo. The ABS pedal position sensor seal is an old favourite! -
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Yep, quite an old spec that. 640 to the wheels with a spacer is well beyond the limit! It's just luck more than anything else that it holds together with that much boost. He hit 9 dead if I remember rightly a couple of years ago, but that was a built motor, SQS gearset, bigger turbo, better mapping, Race fuel etc etc....
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As said already, it's mostly down to tyre choice and driver skill. Takes practice to get good times. No one in the UK runs the appropriate tyres for winter use, let alone drag racing so we're not doing ourselves any favours. The Americans are far more geared up for drag racing than we are. It's in their blood and they take it VERY seriously. It's one of their national sports. For us it's more of a casual 'run what you brung' thing and people don't tend take it as seriously by and large. Obviously there are some successful UK drag racers who do very well though. No sub 10 second VR6
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Sorry I meant it was $1200 dollars a few years ago, so £600ish at the time. Yeah you can go 24V for good money these days but ask anyone who's done it if it was as easy and cheap as people make out ;-)
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Yep, correct. They also have an electronic throttle and a different rocker cover. To run that manifold you would need the rocker cover, the intake itself, the PCV pipework and fittings, associated plastics and an adapter for the throttle. Although if you're OBD2, your throttle might fit straight on. Pics of the manifold etc here - http://www.gruvenparts.com/website/diys/Performing%20Compression%20Test%20on%20VR6.htm On top of that, you will also need to remap the ECU to account for the significant torque gain in the lower rpms. The timing will need to be pulled and fuel added where the i
