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acf8181

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Everything posted by acf8181

  1. i get 280-300 usually...you must have a very heavy foot!
  2. yep i posted them...before i realised its a US only thing. have to get the vag-com out over here!
  3. could be a faulty battery...mine had one and it did loads of weird stuff.
  4. ok...140mph doesn't actually feel that fast to me! eek! where do i apply for the airforce?
  5. pics not at the best angle and it prob looks worse cause theres no front end on.
  6. timing chain upper tensioner blade, engine mounts and suspension bushes are all prone to wearing out...usually between 100k-120k.
  7. you can only compare stuff like that if the engines are identical. and it'll prob be an 02M casing, which is quite a lot heavier than the 02A that we have in the vr6's, and a lot of work to fit into a vr6.
  8. didn't it tell you to chop them down on the instructions with the kit?!
  9. yeah, someone already contacted him and he seemed dodgy.
  10. i've been hunting through the gallery (i'm now a premium member at last) and they do appear to be slanted...it looks more obvious as i have no front end on. i'll take another pic tomoz tho.
  11. well, how much is a rebuild gonna be? and a new engine will be £500-600.
  12. that link is updated with new pics by the way
  13. have you got a rear one as well? did you use the cup thingy off the original mount (has a bit of rubber in it originally)
  14. any thoughts....http://www.clubgti.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31274 (i can't be bothered to type it all out again!)
  15. yeah, the upper tensioner blade on this guys was fine at 150k...but all the rest were coming apart (where as they're perfect on mine still). only way i guess is to set the engine to TDC, whip of the inlet, cam cover, tensioner bolt and upper chain cover. look at the blade, and the other runner you can see. if they're ok, i'd presume the rest are (you're not gonna take the box out just to check) and put it back together (dont' forget to bleed the tensioner bolt down if the piston has come out a bit) and forget about it. heres the links (which were passed to me by vr6pete, so credit to him for
  16. well, last time we had the top tensioner botl out (h/gasket) we put it all back togertha dn when we tried to start it we could hear a valve connecting against a piston (well, we think thats what it was...loudish metalic banging noise)...the car never strated. we rechecked the timing and it started fine. so here's hoping it's perfect first time this time.
  17. i bet a schrik, atb, and altered final drive will make a quicker A to B car than just bolting an SC on. probably similar costs. what you think?
  18. please sell them to me...i beg you...i need them bad!
  19. providing they clear the brakes, are the correct PCD, hub bore and are not silly offsets yep. my car came with 7x15s when i bought it.
  20. oh just one more q to you kev...in an article i read on vw vortex they said the obd2 engines were single row top chain (but you've cleared up that that is US only), what about the tougher top tensioner blade and bolt with a spring in? are they US only? the significance is that obd2's top blade should be good for life...so you obd2 boys dont have to worry at 100k like us obd1's.
  21. ok, my mistake...so in that case all the engines are mechanically identical? so just use your manifold, anciliaries and wiring and bobs your uncle its obd1..easy peasy.
  22. well, its all back togerther...box is bolted in, just got a few other bits to do before it gets started. checked the timing about 50 times, so if its wrong its wrong...but i'm quite happy that its ok. we shall see within a few days.
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