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acf8181

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Everything posted by acf8181

  1. GP legends is what i'm using to learn the track! hard game. i've also got loads of clips, i don't know their URL's so if anyone wnats some they'll have to get onto MSN messenger and i'll send them (broadband only)
  2. this thread may interest you... http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=38036
  3. i'd get a set of proper ones evil...they have to be hubcentric for vw's (which means the loads is shared between the wheel bolts and the hub), if they're not hubcentric the wheel bolts will be taking the full load...and could well shear. very dangerous. the hubcentric spacers cost a fair bit unfortunatly, but they'll be good quality and should come with proper bolts. i would deffo not risk it.
  4. oh dear thats not good. first checks would be all the bolts in the area (inc subframe, and anything attched to it, like suspension) and fluid level. also check for leaks.
  5. i take it you've bought proper spacers hubcentric designed for the application? surely the company that supllied those will do the bolts to go with them?
  6. ok, it won't come out. am i gonna have to pay £150 for a new one? or does anyone have any bright ideas?
  7. and if one goes the second will follow within a month or two! someone has to make uprated ones somewhere. i wonder if the neuspeed ones are available separatly, and whether they are compatible with o.e. or eibach bars.
  8. is the old oil really that dirty? e-mail vince at stealth and he may be able to suggest somehting. theres an e-mai address on his site. www.stealthracing.co.uk
  9. they're £52 each form vw. think the ecp ones are much cheaper...i got a set for free off a matey. haven't broken them....yet!
  10. i have heard that engine fluch can do bad things. see if vw will sell you some engine flush (if they stock it) and be very careful to mention its for a vr6. if they'll sell you some then it must be ok.
  11. the biggest thing to be aware of is that the timing chinas (or more specifically, the timing china tensioners, but you may as well change the chains whilst there) need changing between 100k-120k, and this process requires the gearbox to be removed. so its pricey. vw say its not a service item (they laos say it doesn't ever need doing, but thats not true) so just cause a car has fsh doesn't mean its been done. if its not there in black and white it ain't been done. other stuff to check is... -every electric item in the cabin -abs -suspensions and/or bushes
  12. powerflex do bushes for where the arb is attached to the subframe (no. 16/19), these ARE supplied with eibachs. however neuspeed also include the link (no. 17) i'm not saying buy new ones when you fit your eibach bars, but be prepared to break a couple along the lines. i'm not aware of any uprated ones being sold yet. let me know if you come across any. i have heard of someone getting a local engineer to beef up the standard ones, but that would only be the straight bit of the link, and mine both had the the ring that goes round the balljoint part of it let go.
  13. maybe i didn't have it in neutral then...its seemed as though its welded in!
  14. see, this is how our vr6's are set up... it's no.17 that is the link and keeps snapping. heres a mkII/non-vr6 mkIII set up... no. 15 is the link on there, which is stronger, and has the rubber ring inside it, which is what powerflex make. if you do break an arb link whilst driving, you'll hear a banging noise where it hits the driveshaft. you'll have to get towed home, cause if you keep driving its likely to puncture the cv gator. i've broken two with a standard bar!
  15. powerflex don't make arb links...they onyl make poly mounting bushes for the where the arb mounts to the subframe. the powerflex bushes for the arb links are for the mkII and non-vr6 mkIII golfs, which have a different (and stronger arb link), so they are of no use to you. [ Edited Sun Jul 04 2004, 05:40PM ]
  16. how do i remove the gear selector thing that goes down into the box? my replacement box doesn't have one in it already.
  17. well, it'll rev up quicker....but also rev down quicker when you lift off the throttle.
  18. repplace both at the same time, or you could end up with a very oversteery car!! neuspeed are a good idea as they come with a full fitting kit inc front arb links (eibachs dont include this AFAIK) which is a weakspot on the vr6, even with a standard arb. putting the extra pressure from an uprated one on a standard link is a bad idea.
  19. as ingham says. sounds to me like he just wanted you to buy a set of alloys there and then, and would tell you anything to do it. obviously knows jack shit about vw's as well. uprated arb's are probably the most needed thing on a vr6. wish i could afford some. a pair of eibach arbs costs about £200, neuspeed are about £350 (and worth the extra).
  20. yep, scrappy, and rare. but if you find a mkIV cabrio in a scrappy with the steering wheel still there (and airbag no deployed) let me know.
  21. does he sell alloys, but not arb's, by any chance? he's talkin crap...arb's will be better than going to lower profile rubber (as you would if you switched to 16"s) as it will minimise roll, and you won't loose as much ride comfort as you would with low pro tyres.
  22. the reasoning behind trail braking is to counter the understeer by having the centre of gravity further forward. usually only necessary at lowish speeds as the balance moves more to oversteer at higher speeds. what you do is (and picture you're on a straight road into a tightish corner) arrive at speed and brake very hard (on the limit) in a straight line. now tradition thinkin would be to get off the brakes and get on a balanced throttle as you turn in. but due to the heavy vr6 engine you'd get understeer. so you actually turn in on the brakes, but not full brakes (you have to trade off braki
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