acf8181
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Everything posted by acf8181
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i get more looks when i walk down the street! lol
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interesting...what set up do you have. i have o.e. discs, and pagid FR pads (had to as i overheat the normal stuff - not that i brake hard ; ) ) on my last car i had ebc greenstuff, they weren't as bad cold as the pagid (not as good as o.e. tho), but gave a really long pedal. i even went back to o.e. and dealt with the fading instead, acuse it was a lesser evil IMO.
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no all the wiring is comptely different, as our most of the anciliaries on the engine. why not get a obd1 gearbox, and obd1 ecu and stick with your surrent engine. [ Edited Wed Jun 30 2004, 06:44PM ]
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does sound a bit lik rear beam bushes to me...but could be dampers as well. i'd put oney on the bushes though. very early to have them wearing out though...has your car had a hard life?
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about £120 for powerflex bushes (both ends)...fitted myself
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well, i think the easiest thing would be to use the basic obd2 engine with your obd1 anciliaries, thus making the engine obd1. but, it'll be easieser to replace the head gasket on your current engine and keep that, if thats whats actually wrong. the gearbox may well be the hardest bit...not sure what has to be done.
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if absolutly nothing happens...battery has to be the first check. is it fully charged?
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c'mon...what car you drive makes no difference to the opposite sex, unless its something like a ferrari which gives the impression you're loaded and thus gold diggers flock.
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yep, uprated mounts. vibratech comp front, FR rears. no money left for a flywheel...also, not sure i'll like the characteristics. is the rubber bush thingy no. 25 on image 311-90 of ETKA?
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have a look at them. what mileage yours at? mine had all the bushes completely shot at 115k.
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...parts wise. i've got all the chains parts, more fluid for the gearbox (MT90 ), and new mounts will be bought shortly. anything else? any bolts i need to replace on refitting stuff (flywheel/clutch)? i'll be checking the condition of the clutch, and then decide whether to change it. also, theres a bush in the top of the gearbox (looks identical to a rear wishbone bush!), presum its where the shift linkage goes in? can this be replaced, as the one on the new 'box looks pretty worn. [ Edited ]
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yep, toyos are good in the dry, lots of grip...but thats cause they're so soft, which is why they last all of ten mins! i think uniroyal rallye540's are the way to go on vr6's, as they're superb in the wet...and the vr6 needs all the help they can get in those conditions. goodyear f1's are supposed to be excellant, but i've heard of too many failures of new tyres to trust them. also, the o.e. vr6 size is not available in the newest model, which is the much better than the (average) old model of f1. you'll prob have to pay a bit more for either of these. i paid about £230 for a set of uniroyals
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wow...thats not right. forget my bias valve idea, somethings not right there. springs are prety much settled after 5 mins, it may go fractionally donw after a week or so, but not enough. is it all put back together correctly? that'd be my first check. if thats fine, then find some part no's and go to the manufacturer of the kit.
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whats yours doing exactly pete? i'm getting really fed up of FWD as well....i can't commit to corners hard unless i know the fronts gonna turn in, and i just don't have that confidence in it at the mo. i sometimes am about 5mph below the limit onn entry to corners, and i'm often turning in too early just in case i get some understeer. in other words its unpredictable...bit like mclarens current f1 car or so i hear! lol
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seeing as i'm removing my gearbox in the next few days...how hard was it to remove the driveshafts (appologies if i've missed any comments on this, i've only scan read)
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hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha! yep, it will break and cost a fortune to fix! maybe mod friendly, but the mods will require a mortgage. sorry, just being honest. it also needs winding up to get real performance out of it, so they're often dissappointing to drive at first. keep it above 4k rpm's. but i'll be nice now...the sound is amazing, and theres nothing as nice for the money. make sure you geta low mileage one, or that you have hard proof that the timing chains have been replaced at 100k-120k. its a gearbox out job, and costs big bucks. people (well, traders) may say to you that the chain
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or shall i get these... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7907551163&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
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there is a thread somewhere about this, so hhave a look for it. but i think its a case of getting spaer made for the calipers, then just waking it all on.
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yep, just saw your sig...you'll most likely have 280's. way to tell is 288's calipers have a thin silver spring clip across the front of the caliper, 280's don't.
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cause your coilpacked vr6 is still obd1! only the very very early obd1 vr6's had a dizzy. '92's only from what i've worked out (so all J plate, and some K plate). they then switched to coilpack, but it was still obd1. corrado's are prob the same. what year did they stop making the 'rado, '95 or '96? in which case all 'rados are obd1 (but pre'93 were dizzy, post '93 coilpack)
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theres a brake bias valve attched to the rear beam...when the car goes lower it moves the brake bias rearwards, presuming the boot is filled with extra junk. but if you lower a car, the valve assumes its the boot laden, so moves the bias rearwards, but this is a prob as there isn't actually any extra weight so the bias is too far rearwards and you snatch the rear brakes. to be fair, its not a big issue with abs, but if you dont have abs you can soon be going backwards under braking. worth noting only obd1 cars have the bias valve, i think, but the kits are designed for the whole range, and we
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i wondered how long they'd last! the rear ones are fairly new...but the fronts are the orginals as far as i know. vr6 shocks lasting 125k!!! i'd hoped i'd be able to afford proper uprated stuff when they wore out, but i can't at the mo...so it'll have to be gsf boge ones for now!
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if you don't overheat the brakes with standard discs/pads, theres no point going for uprated/fast road stuff as you loose cold performance, and if you don't need to prevent fading theres no point. but what mr six appeal suggested is the way to go...as the brakes will work better (where as fast road discs dont make any difference, and only super soft fast road pads increase performance - but wear out really quick).
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ok, recently had leads/plugs/fuel filter. anyway of testing the relay? wheres the engine speed sensor loacted then?