RBPE

Had a few more bits turn up last week... as I have been debating over what to do with the transfer box issue I bagged an R32 transfer box so I could at least work out if there is any point modding the gearbox to take the TT one...
 
On the face of it they look the same but... there are a couple of subtle differences... one being the overall length of the through shaft to the right hand drive cup... there is about 10mm difference which of course changes the amount of engagement to the diff once fitted... this suggests that if I leave the box unmodded then the R32 transfer box would be the best bet... I then took a bunch of measurements to see where the drive cups etc would end up as this will dictate what I need to do for drive shafts.... please note that all measurements are approximate as:
 
A) I wasn't looking precision... just looking to get an idea of what I am working with...
2) My eye sight is cr@p
z) please refer to the points above....
 
The 02M manual box as fitted to an 8L S3....

 
...and the 02E DSG box as fitted to a VR based TT or R32 (the pic is the TT one but the layout is the same)

 
So using the bellhousing mounting face as the datum as this will be the mount point to the engine and therefore the same across any box... you can see that the 02M transfer box flange face is 208mm from the face... while the TT DSG is 234mm... this is fine as there are off the shelf drive shafts that would fit the S3 as the Mk1 TT is the same chassis... they are tri-lobal inner joints though so somewhat on the fence about that...
 
However when looking at the R32 DSG set up (from a Mk5 chassis car as the Mk4 didn't have DSG) the dimension is 12mm more at 246mm... this is partly down to the R32 DSG box having the protruding transfer box mounts over the Mk1 TT DSG box's more flush ones...
I also noted that the TT transfer box has additional machining on the mount face that would let it sit further to the left... this makes sense as the other key measurement here is the centreline of the output flange to the prop shaft... On the TT DGS/transfer box setup this was the same as the manual 02M but on the R32 setup this was approx 10mm over to the right... this would effectively move the prop closer to the right side of the tunnel closing the gap required to get the downpipe through
 
Until I am at the point of actually making the downpipe for the turbo setup I am not sure how much trouble that will give me but 10mm is quite a lot given there is not much space there in the first place...
 
Anyhoo... thats a problem for later... 
 
The other problem I have with the right hand side drive shaft is that the transfer box flange only seems to support a tri-lobal style inner CV...  I am pretty sure that some R32 transfer boxes had flanges for the standard S3 inners so looks like I maybe keeping a lazy eye out for something else...
 
The left hand drive cup is 10mm different (requiring a longer shaft) to the 02M but the R32 is 5mm the other way which suggests that I should be able to use the standard left hand S3 shaft... ironically on the R32 DSG box the left drive cup supports the S3's inner CV's... the TT one however uses the tri-lobal style... 
 
So... in summary... if I use the R32 DSG/transfer box as is... I can use the S3 left hand shaft, the prop will be 10mm over to the right making the down pipe a little more of a challenge and I will need a tri-loble right hand drive shaft that has an overall length some 38mm shorter than the S3's
 
I currently have my eye on a relatively cheap  transfer box from a Mk7 Golf R... this should fit up to the box fine, has the correct drive flange for the right hand shaft but... will no doubt still move the prop over and has a different style prop flange although I believe the bolt pitch is the same so should be fine....

 
At the end of this I will have rather a lot of transfer boxes to sell I think LOL... the joys of trying to get stuff from newer cars to fit to our older cars...
 
<tuffty/>

So by now the head has returned back... the guides were perfect by all accounts which was a nice surprise as every 20v head over 50k seems to need at least exhaust guides (turbo + heat etc) and only needed the meerest kiss to resurface...

 
First off... lapping the inlet valves...

 

 
Then the Supertech exhaust valves... these are single groove collets which are generally better for high revving and cammed setups but tbh its all Supertech do for the VR6 it seems which is fine as the 20v had a full supertech valvetrain including springs and titanium retainers...

 
I don't plan to rev the VR anywhere near as high as the 20v did so happy enough that it will hold together fine with the extra safety margin afforded by using inconel exhausts..
 
Next up was to put the head back together.... strangely satisfying building heads

 
I cleaned up all the VVT gear and fitted new seal rings to the cams...

 
Plopped the headgasket onto the block and sat the head on... I was going to stretch to ARP head studs but tbh they were bonkers money and for the level of tune I am aiming for not really needed...

 
New chains and tensioners fitted...

 
and this is where I hit my first real issue... obviously with the spacer head gasket it has moved things specifically with the top chain and its relationship between the the block and the head... now I did struggle to find out the definitive way to do this with answers varying from adding another link into the chain (which didn't sit too well with me) to shaving a load of material off the guide.... this again seems a daft idea as the wear and you change them because of that... seemed wrong to accelerate the wear process so instead I slotted the mount holes which essentially does the same job but leaves the surface the chain runs on untouched...

 
Now I confess to not knowing if this is the way its typically done but the info seems a little sparse so I went with the majority consensus on this one... I also had to mod the top cover to allow it to clear the tensioner and give it some room to move...

 
Again... not 100% happy about that so if anyone has info on what is deemed the "correct" way to do this I am all ears and happy to go back in and tweak the chain setup...
 
Anyhoo... with that now done I refitted the covers (with all new seals) and the sump...

 

 

 
The astute of you may have noticed that the sump does not have the oil drain fitting in and that is for a couple of reasons... 1) I want the engine in the car with all the drive shafts etc in so I can best work out where to put it for the best run, and 2) I had planned to run the engine NA for a while until I knew the conversion had worked properly... and had a bit more time to do the required fabrication work...
 
Finished off with fitting a few more ancillary parts (mostly new OE bits ) and also fitted the 630cc long nose Bosch injectors (PN 0280158123) I intended to use

 
To finish off the cam cover and inlet manifold had arrived back from the powder coaters

 
Happy days...
 
<tuffty/>

What do you want to know? Most aspects have been covered on the forum so have a look through beforehand then ask away on more specific things!

I've been a lurker for years and have sifted through some excellent material on a variety of subjects.
They say the ol' 80/20 rule applies to a lot of things in nature, in this case, online forums.
20% of the people post content and 80% are scooping it up.
Much of the content here in this forum is GOLDEN and it spans for many crucial years (applicable to many of our cars that are still proving themselves on the road).
 
It is a learning curve with every forum to effectively navigate (but if there is good, applicable content, they will come).
The strength of VR6OC.com is that it is VAST and DEEP in terms of subject matter and content.
 
One question I've always wondered about is "with new tires, do old cars go faster?".
Meaning, some of the tire recommendations for our older vehicles, whist perhaps on-point at the time, are probably now obsolete.
Maybe we could start a thread of parts to swap out in our cars, replacing them with better ones for this day and age.
I'd bet that tires have given our cars a huge advantage over the years or a disadvantage if we are not using the proper silica compounds 'for the times'.
 
Took the VR6 out for a stretch earlier today.
Such a wonderful drive, reminded of why we drive what we do.
Who else can say they own a vehicle that enables you to play an instrument and drive at the same time?
MMMM,, RAAA, MMMM, RAAA.... ha ha!!!
 
 

There's a lot less interaction on the forums nowadays, not just this one - is everyone just facetubin' it nowadays or does that mean the mods have covered all technical Q's now?   Just wondering what's changed in recent years?

There's a lot less interaction on the forums nowadays, not just this one - is everyone just facetubin' it nowadays or does that mean the mods have covered all technical Q's now?   Just wondering what's changed in recent years?

Hi, I know this is an old thread but it is still helping newbies like myself today.  So thank you

I'm building some new Tunerpro files and want you to check some things if you're interested.
 
Firstly, this is just a few quick maps I've picked out to check and refresh myself on the system as it has been a while, I can add more obv. if there's interest.
I use Win7 32 bit on all my ecu tuning stuff as it seems the most compatible so if you check this then what system are you running? Are you experiencing any bugs like T Pro crashing (it does from time to time on mine so make sure you save things as you go along/tune if we develop this thread). Is the data showing up okay? 
 
You can download tunerpro on the link below. There's a free version and a free version which comes up with a register bit at the beginning for donations - I'm using that one as I expect to donate if I end up doing lots on it with this. It's Tunerpro RT and you can freely use it, you just have to wait until the register bit at the beginning ends after 10 seconds, then press continue.
This is basically a free bit of software that you can use to tune your car which we can go into detail later on if the thread picks up. 
 
So download Tuner Pro here;
http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm
 
***EDIT - I forgot to add this link for a checksum plugin for Tunerpro. You might have a flash tool that has a built in CS feature (like MPPS V18), but even so and if not it might be good to have. You can ask me to check your file too if you're doing this through here. Checksums are recalculations of data so that the ecu thinks its working right in simple terms, need to recalculate every time you change something!
 
Tunerpro CS plugin:
http://www.mtx-electronics.com/prodotti/Software:tunerpro-checksum-plugins
 
Then download this rar file at the link below - this contains a BDE binary file, one found on the net 022906032BG - which is basically the data of your maps that needs defining, then there's the basic xdf I just did with a few maps in it to get things going;
https://app.box.com/s/7kllewx5gf654hdfilfyegk7kmflnugh
 
So, once you've downloaded and set up T Pro, you open a new bin (import the bin) in the menu and add the one in the rar file. Once you've done that you add the xdf (I think you import them and remember where the files are or if Tunerpro sets a file up for your ecu's/revisions just create a file in there - I forget now as I set mine up ages ago but you'll pick it up!).
 
Once you've done that then you should have a few maps defined and the values as shown in the pics in the red boxes - let me know if it is coming okay on yours and if not what system you are using, what values etc
 

 

 

 
If they are showing up like that then you are good to go in future as I build and add more xdf files. I may sell the more detailed ones and things like turbo base files etc but I'll stick up plenty of info in due course if people are interested?
 
There's a few good bits of info online already, to save you trawling through forums then these 2 are good basics to start to learn tuning, the acronyms though can be different to what are in the ME7.1.1. files but the principles for the most part are the same - I'll likely put up these basics for free anyway.
 
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5935270-UnOfficial-Eurodyne-Maestro-Tuning-Handbook
 
https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Tuning

Hi RBPE,
The above links are perfect and point me in the right direction.
 
I think I already have the Bentley equivalent manual (Elsawin) downloaded onto my laptop too so all of the information and procedures together with your links will be very helpful and when I come to do anything I'll just print out the relevant pages for guidance.
 
Many thanks for your help.

Quick Google came up with these links for 05+ Jetta which may help too?
 
http://vwts.ru/service/j05_maintenance_01.pdf
 
http://vwts.ru/vw/g5/golf_2007_jetta_2005_maintenance_eng.pdf
 
If you can't find specifics I found the SSP's and other manuals tend to have at least some information you needed if you kind of download them and put them all together, VW use the same things in different models so you can get a bigger picture that way.
 
Bentley is the US version of Haynes if there are similar manuals too for those that may not know.

Something like this for the newer motor you mean?
 
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_127.PDF
 
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/VW/Corrado/VW_Corrado_SLC_AAA_Repair_Manual.pdf
 
I don't recall seeing one specific for the newer engines, it's an engine put in various models so the Haynes or US equiv may have more there, I've never bothered using manuals, half the fun was in finding out over the years! There's probably tons of threads about online for more specific questions if you Google them though.

The fsi engine;
 
http://sandbox.enjoybeing.net/veedub/vw_vr6_self_study.pdf
 
Or parts of the older none fsi VR6/R32 here;
 
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_195.pdf
 
The electrical system;
 
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_379_d1.pdf
 
Car;
 
https://cardiagn.com/volkswagen-eos-2006-ssp-355-online/

Monster spec! You'll have to keep it stock looking and take it out on the road to embarrass some supercars!
 
I think these guys do all the big hp box work over in Germany, some of the 8 second lot reference them; https://www.facebook.com/doc.drehmoment.official 5/6th gear supports and billet shafts etc seem to crop up now and again and on the German forums.
 
Have you got or are getting a harmonic damper too? 

So this is how the car is now , engine is in , gearbox in
Passenger drive shaft all bolted in , have fitted eibach front and rear anti roll bars , the car has powerflex bushes all round with fk coilovers on it.
 
Everything has been replaced , new hubs . Bearings , track rods and ends , ball joints , wishbones etc etc
Also bought these hefty bastards to help me stop! 334x32 discs with 17Z 6 pot calipers to go with them!
 

 
Here's the rear axle that's all bolted back up

Car looking sorry for itself lol
 

 

HX40 are 70lb/min compressors, turbine housing's vary from 14 to 20+ cm£ on them. 14cm will be best for lower hp <500hp or so, then 16/17cm ones will do for 550hp+. I can get brand new Wuxi ones for around the same price as the Compressor Racing ones so never a need to pay more than £400-500 for a new HX35 or 40, although CR do get some Huddersfield ones and hybrids but I'd budget that price for a Holset (or Cummins if you want to do your homework).
 
Cast or forged won't make that much difference on the crank, if any! in terms of reliability as they are all the same material, it's not like they upgraded the material like aftermarket parts so negligible gains to be had. I'm helping a guy on here DIY tune his mk5 using a 24v crank for R30, will see how they hold up - 8.7:1 compression it gave;
 

Thanks for getting back to me, I'll have a play and see what I can do.

New track rods

More powdercoating

New driveshafts from VW

Nice to see it all coming together

At this point I just wanted to get the car back together and running. So it was a quick clean of the brake calipers and back on. I will probably get these refurbished next winter.

Mount made for my Talon switch panel. Total newb at fabrication if you can call it that but good fun anyway.


400bhp NX Express wet kit just in case

Car loaded up and on the way to the dyno


Car made 555bhp on wastegate springs which is enough to run it in and zero modifications to the standard DRP gearbox.

My Dad loves the wood but I think it has to go

After lots of thought SQS or DonOctane decided to go for something purpose made and best of all UK made.

Time to come apart again

Lots and lots of Fing and blinding late the gearbox was out with the engine and transfer box still in position. Entirely possible but definitely yanking the engine next time.

New guest has settled in nicely

Turbo to charge cooler pipe powder coated after a few little tweaks

Had a few issues on the dyno with pipes blowing off and overheating due to air locks so re-introduced an expansion bottle back in the system.

Found a local guy to paint the car so decided on House of Kolor ‘Jet set back’ and lots of clear and colour sanding. Seen it on the tv a bunch so fancy myself a nice paint job. On area I’ve never paid a lot of attention to.

The usual over and undersquare engine variances really that's all, all these engines are designed as low revving torque monsters like most VAG engines. You can make 600+hp on any of them really, read the description of this for example, not sure of the hp but the times would suggest a fair amount, likely 700+ as stock on a 12v, other engines pretty much similar in terms of durability;
 
 
 
Generally on oem bore/stroke peak hp is around the oem 6800rpm limit, even 1000hp ones with an 8500rpm limit have peak power at 6800rpm due to the fundamental dynamics from what I've seen, so no need for high revs for power, just gears. Bigger ports etc in R32 would ultimately flow more, same with porting/polishing/big valves etc but as said, a lot is in tuning and working out where you want power, even big ports can affect low end for the top... so 600+ is achievable on any, you want more low end, displacement increase, can affect max revs obv given over/undersquare changes, but where's the spool on your turbo, what power band are you happy with and so on? That vid you would think they're not too bothered about low end then for drag so no need to run low end keeping it in high revs and boost, unless he uses it daily in which case turning down the boost would help at the low end and spool......lot's to weigh up!
 
Best bet would be to look at the logs/dyno plots of any and their respective set ups, plenty about on net and here in places.
 
Also, if new to VR's, think low revving torque monsters & learn how to change gear faster!  7500rpm/1000hp/stock 02M example;
 

Can't believe there isn't a "which turbo?" thread as a sticky. As I'm always asked this by builders and as it always crops up here I will give my 2p's worth! .
First of all, this is just a basic guide for VR/R specific "what turbo's?", specific info on turbo speccing I would suggest reading things like this;
https://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/basic
and going through all their guides plus many more threads on the net. This is probably for noobs then who don't want to learn that!
I would estimate that around 90% of owners that come to me are usually looking for around the 400-450hp mark. Should you get a turbo that flows that? No! Technically speaking, say a V6 4Motion runs 200lb/ft of torque, then a highly efficient V6, 100% efficient -  running a bar of boost - i.e. you have compressed the ambient air - outside air - to double it's original density - ambient pressure which is 14.7 psi, pounds per square inch or 1013mbar is what you feel every day just walking about - is compressed by the turbo - so would run 400lb/ft or 400hp thoretically at double the stock ambient pressure..
Although it would show 1 bar of boost on  your gauge, you have essentially taken normal air - a density of 14.7 psi, and squashed it to half it's size, subsequently making a square inch twice as dense - or 29.4psi absolute pressure - i.e 14.7+14.7. That is basically what a turbo does - compresses air!
So, theoretically speaking, if you double the air density, you're doubling the output - 400lb/ft in that example. However, there are many factors as to why your car doesn't achieve that! Efficiency is the reason. There are a number of things which make your car less efficient.
Most of you know that the air has to go into a filter, down pipework, maybe through an air cooler and into the inlet manifold before entering the engine and as such, losses will occur as the air has to battle these restrictions - therefore causing losses or making it less efficient than is ideal. See the fluid dynamics link below.
The turbo itself has it's own efficiency islands too - the "compressor map" as it were and being an air pump can also suffer efficiency losses if not specced correctly/not operating at it's most efficient. The turbine side of the turbo can also have profound differences on things like spool, but if you want to know more specifics, take a look at the links above and below.
Anyway, due to the above factors to consider in terms of "what hp of turbo?", it is why I always say "get a turbo of at least 500hp!" - do some basic math for R32 differences then - 3.2/2.8 x 500 = 571hp as a rough guide.
There is more to it, for example many owners report higher flowing turbo's with the same turbine ar ratio are very, very similar in feel - i.e. the GT30 v GT35R, seem to have very little in terms of spool difference if the ar ratio is the same - i.e. both 0.82 T3.. Lot's of variables in tuning though - it's always a balancing act for end results!
Which actual turbo's then!!!!!!!!!!! I hear you say?
Well, the proven ones are usually the Garrett and Borg-Warner units. You can get cheaper versions, like the B-W S or Garrett T versions but they are rarely chosen. Why? The turbine side of the B-W S can be large - see Holset info below - or the T series aren't as readily available here in the UK although the journal and ball bearing T series are great budget or relatively budget versions which are often enjoyed by those in other markets like the US. 
In the UK, possibly EU at least, the best, readily available options are the Garrett GT/GTX and Borg-Warner EFR turbo's - all very advanced and highly proven. You'll be looking at a minimum of £1k+ most likely though for these but they are usually considered the best.
So let's briefly look at the turbine ar rato of these turbo's:
0.63ar/equiv - good low end/spool due to high air velocity at low volumes but can ultimately choke up top - prob best for 4 cyl - ultimate air flow being the problem!
0.82/0.83 ar equiv - preferred choice for road use, a bar of boost at roughly 3500rpms, good flow bottom to top - can do 600hp too!
1+ ar - good for hp chasers, weekend toys etc, big top end but not always favoured for daily's due to poorer gas dynamics at low loads.
Air speed velocity can help at low loads, a smaller orifice will have x amount of air pass through it quicker than a larger one but too high mach numbers up top are less ideal as they can introduce turbulent flow - Google laminar flow. The preferred turbo's mentioned have both T3 ad T4 flanges so these air speeds/traits should be thought about. same single or twin scroll turbo. Almost every owner I have spoken to usually opts for a GT35R T3 0.82 and they have always been happy, but some prefer a little more lag, whether that's the driving style or drivetrain protection, so sometimes big ar ratio's and T4 flanges are chosen.
Outside of these variants then let's see;
Holset are also a favorite of owners with a few I know enjoying them! These are commercial, can be tons about but are usually used on big diesels, as such, check turbine side as they can be HUGE, good scrap yard finds though and cheap if you can get a supplier of them! I know compressor racing on ebay does them now and again and the turbine is specced/changed for petrol led build's with happy buyers - maybe worth a look? Being workhorses on high temp diesels they tend to be bulletproof.
There is also a number of other options - some decent JDM turbo's on the bay, thrust journal bearing mind you in terms of cost to think about comparatively, but well proven in such circles - just remember though that with import duties on any outside UK/EU you're looking at x 1.25 the cost of item plus postage to your door if not bought within UK/EU. Some nice billet items there and a bit cheaper so worth a look, but factor in these additional duties if you get quotes from domestic suppliers and their turbo's. It could be a case of them being nearly the same cost as a dual ball bearing turbo for example!
Precision Turbo's can also be found on the bay, mainly JDM usage here in the UK but many use in the States, not really au fait with them but lot's of big power builds read about  - more expensive for me to buy them than the major manufacturers above but supposedly well proven. Both journal and ball bearing options for broad cost variations and spec turbines as above.
Ebay cheapies - you'd be surprised what I can get these for in bulk! Different QC standards I would presume so do some homework - have a 20vt friend who was looking for a 300hp turbo - suggested a T series due to funds and around 12-14 months later he's just bought a BW billet KO4 as his 5th turbo and all others ebay spesh's that didn't hold up! 
Things like boost levels, heat levels etc all make a difference and his anti-lag most certainly didn't help! The thing I have learned from manufacturing techniques is that material specifications matter! Therefore, "you pay for what you get!" rings true. Very sensible boost/stresses - these cheapies seem to hold up quite well at times according to some owners, if not - well, read above! 
So, summary;
"You pay for what you get" - compressors spinning at hundreds of thousands of revs, 1000 degree exhaust temps etc - materials and manufacturing processes matter then! Oh - re: the stories about some manufacturers now working abroad and the turbo's now made "cheaply" - QC standards can be of an international standard and I would be surprised if a company that has spent heavily on R&D would suddenly tarnish their reps by using inferior materials/QC standards! Maybe cheaper labour outsourcing, but can't see where named/proven brands qualty would drop with that tbh.
GT35R most popular turbo chosen by owners for their daily's by far in my experience - 0.82AR T3 - 400-600hp well proven.
EFR also top spec - keep compressor/turbine similar to above, similar results
Various mid range turbo's, bit of shopping to do, some decent options mentioned - factor in taxes/duty compared with domestic suppliers, depends on your country/laws I suppose
Cheap generic - your risk, material, usage etc - can make big differences, you do pay for what you get in this area though! Some have worked, most haven't in my exp - I would say if you're struggling and on a budget, keep boost very low and not too many heat cycles until you can afford a more expensive one.
T3/T4 etc flange, turbines - basic guide as above.
*** Note: You may also want to factor in your tune, some can be very turbo & fuel specific, some pay more for custom work in this area but that 440cc tune may not be ideal for your GTX42! Just a thought! ;-) ***
 
Anyway, my 2p from my experience, hope it helps you choose and hope it helps the mods that pull their hair out for being asked this question time and time again!
 

Pretty cool vid showing the combustion process;
 
 

Overflow is due to expansion, hence why they have overflow/expansion tanks (not sure of your knowledge on such things but seeing as you said HG I may as well lay it out for noobs rather than you as you prob don't need it!) - basically the atoms of certain things reverberating - in this case possibly water (hydrogen/oxygen H2O) molecules which leads to expansion. The cause of this is usually of course heat causing it, too much heat, the bane we don't want and a set temp under conditions which the factory deem safe for normal operation! Not only that but an over abundance of oxygen (adding air - i.e. a split causing the fluid to be replaced with air) can exacerbate the situation!
 
There obviously can be loss of coolant with a split in a pipe or loose clamp, if you struggle to see it, say checking under the car in the morning, then it's usually either collecting on something like the gearbox or any other housing/part of car, or possibly even just evaporating! So if you are struggling to pinpoint the source - and do take some time to see where it does come out, then this could be a reason!
 
Once you go through all the hoses and parts that carry the coolant mix about then it's off to the areas where they interact with the engine.
 
A well known area is, of course, the "crack-pipe" as it's known, quick search link;
 
 
Once this is done, or at least checked out,  which would sort a lot of those having coolant problems, then addressing the OP directly;
 
"Yeah, obviously check the seal area's to the engine if you've checked the external coolant carriers mentioned above including radiator of course, rubber seal areas can be prone to splits quite easily where they meet the engine first and foremost, be cheaper and easier checking/replacing easy seals, than cam cover/head off job of course - then yes - on to checking the gasket seals  - checking for any bits that have crumbled in terms of passageways or simply a split in the head gasket material causing an incorrect seal... you sound like you know what you are looking for in that respect!" and to any noobs, you need a nice, air-tight seal here as leaks will occur.
 
Sorry, had 20 mins to kill so thought I'd give an overview for any noobs but if you've checked the obvious and nothing, then yep, onto those gaskets I'm afraid!
 
P.S. It's also not uncommon to get a leak from the coolant sensor area with a bad fitment, have had my own "this part is correct" but just "quite" didn't fit correctly although it at first looked sealed, plus some who have converted their cars not fitting it correctly by accident/tightness - so another easy check there if need be if you changed any such things - usually carries some fault codes!  

Very, Very rare!!!
Stillavailable, make me an offer! Otherwise it’s on eBay the next days!
Accessory pack see on the Pictures!
For OBD1 and OBD2 (Corrado, Golf MK3, Passat, Vento (Jetta))
 
Please ask for more Informations contact me at fb-Messenger: Marius Vielzahnnuss or insta @myrius1234
 
 
Regards
Marius
 
 
 

Little beasty, I'm sure we can let him off for a lack of cylinders.... always nice to see a lithe mk1 spanking the usual car mag cover stars let's be honest!
 
 

Wouldn't really make a difference in "strength" per se, maybe ratio at torque level v's rpm. If you want longevity, I would literally think of it this way;
1. "Is my gearbox in good condition?" - are the teeth worn too much? Can someone or you do a check on the state of your box? Using perhaps dyes or other such techniques? A poor base means a bad start!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_particle_inspection
http://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/Magnafluxing.html
2. "Can I afford someone to modify the strength of my box?" - if so, how? Assuming it's too expensive to manufacture your own box/cogs, what about heat treatment, even though your stock box has gone through thousands of heating and cooling cycles in it's life. Will heat treatment or cryo freezing be a wise idea....can I afford it?
I all honesty, it's not covering the basics that costs people the most money, stock boxes are usually rated to 200-250lb/ft from the factory but 02M's can do 700+lb/ft or 02A's 500+, depends if the basics are covered!
3. Clutches - what boost you looking at, what can you put up with for a daily in terms of pedal feel/grippy/noise, cost etc? If you go aftermarket that can clamp these massive increases in torque under FI then are the teeth in the box as new as stated earlier - if not will they shred due to gaps?
Point is - you can take a risk with your box, even buy 2/3 pretty cheap to replace, but if you are spending money, you have to think about the basics, it is what destroys parts. 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_barrier_coating
http://www.zircotec.com/
http://www.frozensolid.co.uk/
 
"No point putting a bucket under a leaky roof, fix the roof itself!"

p.s. why not to piddle about changing engines and spend it in other areas;