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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    You could just have easily said 1 cam per bank people....it is a V6 after all. The 24v is still DOCH, but 4 valve per cyl using some clever rocker arms techniques. I can see where the DOHC confusion is coming from though.....something I have to remind myself about when working on the VR as my background is 16v.
  2. FishWick
    That's probably the best way to describe it! But with that turbo like push comes a turbo diesel like 'wall' at 4000rpm as the flap opens and then it should pick up again....shows a little trough on the torque curve, but it's not that noticable in some cars.
  3. FishWick
    You should be OK mate, you need to do a fair amount of miles with the timing a tooth out to do any lasting damage. Unfortunately being a tooth is very subtle.
  4. FishWick
    Checking the timing is easy.... 1. Line up the little notch on the crank pulley with the raised mark on the oil seal casing. 2. Strip the rocker cover and manifold off. 3. Take the plugs out. 4. Drop a long screwdriver into cylinder 1. The piston should be at the top of it's stroke. If it is, look at the horizontal cut outs in the cams (airbox end), they should be dead in line and dead parallel with the head. You need to slide a bit of 4mm plate into the grooves to be sure. If you can't, the cams are on 180 out, so you'll need to rotate the engine with a 27mm socket until you can get the p
  5. FishWick
    LOL, yeah my car is pretty heavy, must be just shy of 1300kg. The entire boot is dynamatted, under the seats, the roof, the doors, the rear 1/4s, you name it! Never did roller it with the cams etc....on some days it felt insane....which is the problem I still have....intermittant power loss....but when it was standard it made 200bhp and 193 pounds.....on the days it felt quick it was easily as quick as my old Golf 16V Turbo, which puts it into the 220 brake catergory. I'll see how it goes but I've got a 9:1 CR block rebuild (not forged pistons) and a smaller charger pulley planned if Vinc
  6. FishWick
    Yeah it was Joe, but Vince said there was enough leeway in the chip and MAF to compensate for the cams. I just don't think my engine was ever particularly good with them tbh, probably due to a fault I've not been able to find. A standard VR could keep up with my Schricked and cam'd one, which isn't right. But you're probably right...if I'd had it all mapped to my engine, it would have been better. Vince has got the car all next week to investigate why it's so slow from 4000rpm onwards.....I've exhausted all my usual checks, inc VAG-COM ones, so it's going to be something obscure and hard to
  7. FishWick
    If you're ever planning on going forced induction at some point, go with the 248 cams instead. I had the 268s and schrick on mine and didn't rate the cams much to be honest. Schrick insist on the uprated springs with the 268s...but sell them seperately, LOL! Stealth have never fitted them - unless specifically asked to - and have yet to see a standard spring break. At the end of the day, a charger is the way to go on the VR for a nigth/day difference. The N/A tuning stuff does make a difference, don't ge me wrong, but when it's all done you'll be left wanting more and feel shortchanged
  8. FishWick
    The Schrick isn't bad....it doesn't give you more torque per se, it moves the available torque further town the rev range....some engines see a small increase in peak torque, but it was never meant to be a mod for giving big power gains, but rather to remove the sub-4000rpm flatness. Having tried the schrick and cams etc, the same money would be better spent on the transmission instead imo. Dropping the final drive to 3.68 gives the same effect as the Shrick and you can also add a quaife diff....which really takes the handling to a new dimension,
  9. FishWick
    It's the earlier engines with the the resin coated metal pads that cause the problems. The later OBD2 simplex chained engines that last longer in this respect, but it can't be outruled completely. 24V engine...... it needs to be fly by wire so you'll need to fit a DBW throttle pedal. I found a current shape VW caddy one looks good for the job. All the mounts line up but the only other issue is the exhaust front pipes might hit the steering UJ as the 24V manifold is slightly offset I think....
  10. FishWick
    Good luck trying to solve the clicking.... On Monday, I had Stealth do me a new box build with 3.68 diff crown wheel, quaife ATB and a new VAG clutch....and you know what, that darn noise is still there. It's not the slave cylinder either as that's new too. I might be the pressure plate fingers as already mentioned. I thought it might the ceramic pivot ball rubbing on the actuator arm but I greased that good and proper, so can't be that. What ever it is doesn't matter and I've heard dozens of VWs with the 02A gearbox do it, with no ill effect. The noise is coming from within the bellhousing,
  11. FishWick
    If Sfr is Swedish Franc, then the Supecharger kit is expensive, over
  12. FishWick
    Nope, no quick fixes if it's ceased I'm afraid. The MK3 ones were slightly better than MK2 but the ones you want are MK4, they are the best ones. Had them on my Corrado over a year and they actually work, most noticably the handbrake actually works!
  13. FishWick
    If it is a rear caliper, bin them, sand down and hammerite the carriers, fit MK4 rear calipers and MK4 rear pads and they'll never cease again!
  14. FishWick
    The bleeding process is only applicable to the older hydraulic only style tensioner (OBD1). This type shouldn't be springy at all and to prime it, you need to pass some very thin guage wire down the middle of the piston to release the non-return valve. The OBD2 tensioner is sprung loaded and hydraulic for the very reason that the old hydraulic only ones used to cause chain hopping if the engine kicked back during startup, and there was insufficient oil pressure in the bolt. OBD2 bolts don't do that. And the socket size is 27mm. And no the OBD1 and 2 bolts are not interchangable. Cranking
  15. FishWick
    Off the clock in my Corrado VR with Schrick and 268s. Was behind a 330Ci going flat out on the new section of M6 (very smooth!), so I was doing at least 155mph (as that's their maximum) and had a very small bit left to overtake the Bimmer....but didn't bother as I would have passed embarrassingly slowly! Have to be careful with the steering at those speeds though.
  16. FishWick
    Constant whir? Intermittant whir? Engine speed or road speed related? A worn diff has a very distinctive whine/whir....trust me, you'd know it, and the gearbox would be severly f'cked to make this noise and it doesn't just suddenly wear out either, it's a gradual process.....unless of course there is no oil in the box! If the noise road speed related, it's the gearbox probably. If it's engine speed related, then...... Worn/wearing ZF PAS pumps make a whir too....is your steering heavier than it should be?
  17. FishWick
    Yeah as CliveyP says, build quality can appear to be iffy on Corrados, especially neglected ones where there are missing trim clips and screws etc. And why the Corrado sunroofs break when it shares the same components as the Golf 3 is a mystery. Looks and handling, they're fabulous cars....definitely a future classic. The Motoring press had nothing but praise back in the day. Evo Magazine have this to say about our beloveds:- "Golf VR6 - + Classy compact BMW alternative, - Heavy thirst, heavy handling." "Corrado VR6 - + Still to be bettered for all round ability and appeal, - Err......" I ve
  18. FishWick
    You can use a normal socket as what you get in Halfords professional sets to undo the bolts. They're not rare or expensive, well, I suppose
  19. FishWick
  20. FishWick
    What happened to the cam timing for it to need resetting?!
  21. FishWick
    I bet if you see a Scoob or a BMW 330Ci, TT etc you feel like having a 'play', especially if they're being driven aggressively? I know I do! So what's the difference when Chavs try it on with a VR6 in their Corsas? They have nothing to lose in their 1.4 shopping cars whereas a VR6 driver has bigger pride to be dented. I rarely bother these days to be honest and I only ever play on the motorways or country lanes if the mood takes me. Best way to despatch chavs is to challenge their driving skills on B roads but they rarely venture out that far, instead preferring to pollute the local hang-o
  22. FishWick
    All Corrado Gearboxes and most MK3 gearboxes are cable change and hydraulically actuated.....the only thing that can change is the internals, so the previous owner might have messed with the gearing. I think you'll find the Corrado and Golf VR radiator and fans are the same. You'll also need the large fusebox for the fans and the wiring etc. They're 2 speed and draw a lot of current, so you don't want to be making up your loom with under spec wire! Not sure on the rad support, never seen a VR rad in a MK2, but they do go in. You might need custom PACET fans thinking about it as space mig
  23. FishWick
    Yeah been intrigued by this SuperSprint header for 2 years now but I've not been brave enough to spend
  24. FishWick
    G60 gearbox is hyrdaulic, so there won't be a clutch cable. There's nothing you can do to adjust it either, maybe the slave cylinder on the box is tired giving a weird pedal? I'm not sure the G60 ratios are suited to the VR6 either. Not even G60 owners like the G60 ratios (especially 1st, 2nd and 5th) so I'd pull it out and fit the proper VR box personally......60 is not achievable in 2nd mate if you're a 0-60 fan, so changing to 3rd to make 60 will hamper your 1/4 mile times. If you can fit them in, then yes you need the Golf/Corrado VR6 radiator and twin fan setup. The standard MK2 setup
  25. FishWick
    As VR6Pete says, the simplex upper chained engines with the solid polymer pads barely wear at all. But the early engines with the resin lined metal pad need them checking at 100,000 really and on these engines (duplex upper chain), the lack of a rattle means f'ck all. Don't be complacent.....lift the rocker and check with your own eyes.
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