FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Don't waste your money
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392hp @ the crank with 11psi currently. I would say water volume in a water based intercooler system is fairly key. If a tiny amout of water will suffice in your application, then fair enough. As far as I'm concerned, there's no such thing as overkill when it comes to cooling hot metal. For me personally, it makes no odds how much water I carry as there's no interior behind the front seats and the water tank and battery are placed on the passenger side as ballast to help counter my weight, so it helps with handling balance.
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I know it wasn't, relax! :-) I hear what you're saying. Rad and cooler size are important, but regardless of their efficiency, they rely on water to absorb and disperse the heat and what I'm trying to say is CCs are built to purpose. A bucket of water won't disperse the heat of a square foot of hot metal very well. But a bucket of water is plenty for a peice of metal a 1/4 of that size. If you've got a socking great turbo with big flow and pressure, it's going to really heat that cooler core up and 1 litre of water just won't have the holding capacity to absorb the heat. It will just start
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That's a bummer mate. Is your crank case vent going to atmosphere or the engine? What oil are you using?
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Not sure, at least 3K mate. No issues at all with the R32 pump :-)
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How many miles has yours done with the Wossners Pete? Mine's done over 20K and no smoke issues as yet mate....
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How old is your ETKA? Dealers use an online database now that's upated daily. It's irrelevant anyway because if you order 022 103 601R, it will fit.
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Personally I would over bore to 83mm and get the Wossners to suit :-)
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Chargecoolers need to be built to spec. If you never plan on exceeding 12 psi or so, then you don't need a massive spec charge cooler. As Kelster said, water volume is the key and when it comes to shifting heat from metal, there's no such thing as flowing the water too fast. Get a good pump, some decent gauge water lines, and a good radiator. I have a setrab radiator that is basically the width of the car between the headlights, a 3 US gallon tank and a Meziere WP136S pump, which is 20 US Gall a min. Don't need swirl pots or anything like that. Water gets from the back of the car, round
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Use the sealant because the rubber gasket will move the sump further away from the pump pickup. MK4 and MK5 sumps / pumps are the same, so doesn't really matter.
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Good stuff that permatex. With regard to skimming, the only issue I've seen from NOT skimming an otherwise good looking head is an oil seep from Cyl 1 end of the block. Doesn't happen every time though. The skimmed engines tend to seal better from my experience. On the ARPs, retorque them after 500 miles. I find a couple of nuts tend to come loose, but again, not all the time.
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Personally I'd go with Wossner as they're more "robust", shall we say, than the JEs I used. They're also a damn site easier and nicer to install as they don't have those god awful "Total Seal" rings that the JEs are supplied with. I've done 20,000 miles in my Wossner pistoned VRT over 18 months and it's been a very good engine. Uses no more oil than a standard VR6 does and is MUCH quieter on a cold morning than my old JE block. The wossners aren't so loose in the bores you see.
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For the love of god, please help with AVCR!!!!!
FishWick replied to Liquid Dub's topic in Engine Tuning
That's why my AVCR is still in the shed unused :-) Is there a setting in the AVCR to calibrate the rpm? Seems like you may have to tell it how many tacho pulses it needs to read as it's a 6 pot engine and sends 3 tacho pulses maybe? I took one look at the AVCR "Chinglish" manual and stuffed it back in the box, so that's a wild guess. TPS - On the OBD2 there are more than 1 5V signal lines if I remember right. And the actual throttle pot works in reverse polarity compared to an OBD1 throttle. From memory, I think the black/grey wire on the OBD2 throttle loom is the TPS signal. Again, does -
Personally I would use the R32's complete managment system as half of the R32's character and power comes from the variable intake and timing.....not to mention the newest version of [VAG] Motronic which isn't half bad :-) If you have an incomplete setup, or you want FWD but can't overcome the interaction between Clocks, ABS, Steering wheel and Haldex etc, then a standalone is your only option, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing. You'll just have to sacrifice a few things. ME7 motronic goes into limp mode very easily, especially if you junk 1 or more of the quad lambdas or disconnect the
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Personally I'd rather run E85 than LPG, but it's rather less available (currently) than LPG, but yeah, it's doable. LPG needs to run fatter than petrol so I hate to think of the fuel consumption, LOL! A big donut tank in the boot doesn't really appeal. E85 gives you more oomph, but is even less calorific than LPG, but the bonus is you don't need a special tank like LPG.
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I have the SP elbow and 2 things wrong with it:- 1) It's swept upwards (about 30 degrees) to clear the thermostat housing, but this plonks the throttle smack in the middle of the radiator top hose. 2) The throttle cable bracket appears to be in completely the wrong place. SPTurbo make some brilliant stuff, I have most of their inventory, but some of their stuff just isn't suitable for UK use as their cars are a little different. All you need is the OBD2 adapter plate, but be warned, this puts the throttle very close to the radiator. You may need to get a custom elbow done, or modify the one th
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So what mileage is the car then, 138K, or 67K? You need to make that more clear.
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Why do you need a new head and cams? Porting and polishing achieves very little. The money would be better spent on performance cams and bigger valves.
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Thanks for confirming that Alex. It's good to know some tuners are exploring the capabilities of decent standalones, rather than just sticking to the easier batch + wasted spark + open loop option.
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£1500 sounds a bit steep to me, although if it includes the ECU, the map, Alfa throttle, 1 bar map sensor and a pre-terminated R32 loom, that's pretty reasonable :-) Professionaly made looms are bloody expensive! Also, you need to find out from Storm if they are using coil per plug or a VR6 wasted spark coilpack as it changes the wiring completely. I doubt it will be coil per plug as you need sequential injection for that, which tuners seldom bother with. You'll also need a GOOD wideband to help with accurate tuning. The best I've seen in the sub £500 price is the PLX devices M300, or AE
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I've seen a few custom ones like that, but not off the shelf. From what I've seen so far, HGP do the best short runner in terms of port balancing and it the throttle is centrally mounted, so a little easier for IC plumbing.
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It does at first, then you start chasing 500hp, then 600..... then you're bankrupt :-)
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Motronic 2.9 has a very slow response time on the Intake air temp sensor, around 10 seconds to update. The poorly designed sensor itself heat soaks aswell, which can falsify the reading. This means the air compensation map is pulling fuel and timing for longer than it really needs to. VW addressed this on the 1.8T with an instant updating air sensor, but sadly it faults out to 70 deg C on Motronic 2.9. It only works on Bosch ME7 or standalones. I take out 15% timing and 5% fuel if the IAT is 70 and it does feel a little sluggish until the intake cools down. The fuel in the rail tends to ba
