FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Very nice......but far too many points of breakage and potential exhaust leaks for my liking :-) 1 turbo will always be better than 2, but it depends on personal preferences......torque band, boost range and all that. With exhaust flow on it's side, I don't think the VR gains anything from 2 turbos personally. 1 GT35R will do a better job than 2 K04s.
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Good move. VR6s should have had one from the factory. The MK1 did! Mocal all the way. The pricey bit is the end plate which bolts the sandwich plate and OE heat exchanger to the block, it's custom made for the VR6 application. I would advise against braided hoses, they sand everything down in sight. Vince has a good supplier of precut and terminated hoses for good money.
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Yep, my thoughts exactly. The ATP manifold has been in use for years, and even with 850whp (schimmel) engines, the ATP mani has never cracked.
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Yep, that's exactly why I suggested it. I figured if you wanted to use the stock inlet, you'd be going down the front mount intercooler route. It would work very well imo......providing it clears everything. I think it would personally, but I'm not paying $300 to find out :-)
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Yep, that's exactly why I suggested it. I figured if you wanted to use the stock inlet, you'd be going down the front mount intercooler route. It would work very well imo......providing it clears everything. I think it would personally, but I'm not paying $300 to find out :-)
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Have a look at HGP's site, or HPA in the states. Should have some details like that on there. Depends if it's a sequential twin turbo or just two small turbos. I would imagine a couple of little GT25s or something.... it's only 1.4L per turbo essentially....
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How about this setup - http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-177&Category_Code=AUDIVW-DP You could use the stock intake with that and the downpipe looks like it would work in RHD applications. Hard to say until you try fitting it!
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I know the ATP LHD downpipe runs a bit too close to the gear shift cables and it needs shortening, but other than that, it doesn't foul anything. If anything, the LHD downpipe should work better for us as the yanks have more stuff on the gearbox side of the car than we do. But to be honest mate, I would get a custom one made because every c ar is different. Even the LHD cars need LHD specific downpipes modifying slightly, so it's best to just make one that fits from scratch. Not as hard as it sounds. Jetex sell all the bends and straights you need and flex bellows etc. If you have a look
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Yeah I understand your reasons. I felt the same way initially, but it was just impossible to use the stock inlet manifold with the charge cooler I wanted to use, plus I wanted the boost pipework to be as short as possible. Yep, the SPA manifold puts the turbo in a really nice position for using the stock inlet. I'm not sure there's much you can do to prevent cracking to be honest. On SPA's website, they claim their manifolds are guaranteed for life, so it might be an idea to buy one direct from them to get a warranty and if it cracks, you can claim the associated costs back from them. I
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Yeah, the part of the turbo the intake pipe attachs to. Maybe RadostormVR6 would be good enough to attach some pics of his RHD ATP setup. Seeing those would answer all your questions :-) I haven't personally seen an ATP setup using the stock inlet manifold. The turbo sits right where the throttle would go. You could move the throttle to the other side of the manifold , but I don't know how close it would then put that to Wastegate. Kinetics would work better, but apparently it won't work in RHD cars. Why the reluctance to use an SRI?
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It depends how big the turbo intake is. If it's a 4" inlet, then you definitely have to relocate the brake fluid pot. Some turbos only have a 3" or 2.5" intake and you can get away with it. You cannot use the stock intake with the ATP manifold. The turbo is smack bang in the way. Plenty of people modify the stock intakes to work though, or try and use the Kinetics manifold, which sits the turbo lower down. That was the job of the SPA manifold, to mount it low enough to use the stock manifold and clear RHD steering racks, but the quality is absolutely abismal. It's better to put a bit m
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VW quoting £2000 (the parts are a 10th of that, less if you import) and saying it's an engine out job are 2 reasons to doubt their ability to actually do the job properly. DIY, it's p1ss easy, or take it to a good independant.
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The VF mounts are too hard imo. The front one you can get away with because the whole cross member is isolated with rubber bushes. The rear and gearbox mounts transmit a LOT of noise and vibration into the cabin. I've seen the rear mount cups shear off the subframe from using mounts that too stiff, particularly solid and poly ones......but they never tell you things like that in the sales pitch ;-) The force and strain not taken up by a compressing engine mount has to go somewhere..... The rear mount cups are only tack welded on. I've had both of mine stitch welded all the way round to
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You never know, it might surprise us all and do 100K miles :-) Have you tried the MAF clamp yet? See you have a bucking issue in the S/C thread? By bucking do you mean the MAF clipping, or snatching at low rpms? Are you venting the turbo to atmosphere or using a recirc? I can't remember!
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Unless you've been crunching cogs, that won't happen :-) Agreed with MT-90, it's great stuff. Add some Slick50 gearbox fluid or Ceratec, and life gets even better!
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Is it like a gurgling noise coming from the heater matrix area? You can hear the difference in the Aux pump when it's pushing water or spinning in air as you say. Check for leaks. Even the tiniest of leaks will allow an air pocket to build up somewhere.
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Cheers Karl. Same price as the ATP and almost identical :-)
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That is very unprofessional. I considered going for a Rotrex a few years ago and I got the same Vortech bashing from Andy at Storm too. I don't do business with people like that. I had no problems with my Vortech and I sold it to Eat this and he's not had any problems either. Strom basically tried to extract boost from a V9 that it wasn't capable of delivering, and destroyed it. They then blamed their incompetence on Vortech.
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The one prototype made had several manufacturing problems so it was abandoned :-(
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OK, cheers for that! I won't be going for that then!
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I saw an uprated (6 cylinder) coilpack setup for skylines a while back for around £250, which looked good, but I never got round to trying it.... maybe someone else can :-)
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ATP mani on it's way over from Bill, plus a few other bits. Going the same way as you Shaun. Can you forward me pictures of your brake fluid resevoir setup please mate, and also some pics in general of the engine bay and downpipe. Cheers chap. Bill said he's never seen a cracked ATP, not even on his 800whp engines. The SPA is well known to crack in the states aswell apparently, and not just the one they do for the VR6.
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Guess I'll have to eat my hat regarding the ATP drawbacks and throw it back open for debate. I'm seriously tempted by the Kinetic Motorsport manifold - http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/products/Kinetic_Motorsport_VW_12V_VR6_Manifold-213-93.html It's made of the right material, stress relieved flanges and well judged runner lengths. As Bill sells both that and the ATP, I've asked for his opinion on which is best / toughest.
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Yeah, including me, I am aware of 5 manifolds like this, although the cracks seem to vary in severity. There's no stress relieving in this manifold. The sections between the 3 pairs of runners should have sections removed to allow for iron expansion. By "pleading ignorance", it's not a certain supplier on ebay, just through an associate shall we say. I feel a bit like an isolated case because most people say theirs is fine, so poses questions about SPA's manufacturing consistency. They could even be factory rejects, why else would the brand name be ground off? ATP don't grind their logo of
