FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Yeah, not too early though!
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A BMC CDA filter, Schimmel 263 cams and a Stealth remap is where I'd start if I were new to VR6s. Much less than £1K for the whole lot and a much smoother, punchier engine is the result. After that, the only night / day difference will be forced induction.
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OK mate. Saturday I think I'm free. You can run the log in VAG-COM and export it to MS Excel when you get back from the test run. You can then cross reference MAF, Throttle position, injector duty, knock and then build up a picture of what's happening.
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Need more info on the turbo. Is that the cold side ar, or hot side? T3 flange?
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They are the same thing mate, but Stealth map each engine individually on the dyno and road rather than using a generic chip. Vince has mapped a few VR6 Turbos recently and the results are spectacular.....
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Schimmel doesn't have RHD installs to think about :-) The ATP is a very good manifold, the quality is excellent. It's also very short, so spool up is brilliant as you know Mr Shaun ;-) But....because it's so short, heat soak on the rear bank of cylinders is more of a problem. Shcimmel run 3% more fuel on the rear bank to compensate for this. The SPA hangs the turbo down low, and has more metal between the turbo and head and heat is drawn away by airflow under the car. But as I say, the quality of the SPA manifolds sold in this country is terrible.
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The SPA Turbo is the best manifold for RHD cars, providing you get a good one. I don't like the height at which the ATP one sites the turbo, puts a lot of flex angle on the down pipe.
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They're DIY and generic. I got mine from www.revotec.co.uk
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The MAF peaks out a bit lower mate. My old GT3071R turbo running 8psi used to smash the MAF into it's upper limit by 2800rpm, so the momentary cut is more to do with air mass drawn in and how quickly, rather than boost pressure. Are you running the BEGI fuel riser? Can't remember how you're fuelling yours, sorry! I've got a MAF clamp you can try if you want? It will stop the MAF exceeding 5V. It's not an elegant solution, but it'll get you by.
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Yeah I think someone has eaten all the R32 pumps, think I got the last one in the country, LOL!
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Yeah it's plenty mate. One fan keeps the water at <100 in traffic no probs, even on 30 deg summer days! If you wanted to, you can fit two 11" fans on there though, there's enough room.
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Cheers guys.... Driveshaft shop stage 2.9 axles, good for 475whp.....should be enough :-) And I redid the boot arrangements - properly this time, LOL! Just need to make a false floor to cover the remainder of the boot and it's done :-)
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No mate, the 2.8 sump bolts right on, no change of pump necessary, Personally though, if you corner hard and your car is low, I would take the oppurtunity to fit the R32 sump and pump. The R32 pump is exactly the same as the 12V one, except it has a shorter pick up pipe. Unfortunately VW won't sell the shorter pick up pipe on it's own, so you have to buy the whole pumps assembly.
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I use Vibratechnics competition front, fast road rear and fast road gearbox. For a daily road car I find that works well. If you want more trans noise, fit the competition box mount, it also improves the gearshift a LOT! I love the Vibra mounts, they are the perfect compromise of stifness and refinement.
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I use one 11" Spal suction fan on my VRT and that's all it needs mate. 2 fans is over kill, but the original VW twin fan setup pre-dates the technology that's available now. One other thing, you will lose about 15Kg off the nose by ditching the stock fan setup, which is always a good thing with the understeer prone VR6 ;-)
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You're welcome sir! Got some updates..... New standalone installed with a fresh wiring loom, made by yours truly :-) Took ages and my back kills! It's a DTA S80 and it really is a nice piece of kit. Software and hardware both excellent and it runs like stock, well, better than stock actually. I binned the GM MAP sensor and went for an AEM 3.5 bar pressure transducer and it's super smooth. Just as responsive and smooth as mass air, but without the hassles of air flow limitations :-) Got some new rims aswell :-)
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1 and 6 also have the smallest coolant surface area. It's also partly to with fuelling. The 24V has it's injectors half way down the inlet tract on the rear bank to precisely match the injector to intake valve distance across all 6. If all 6 receive exactly the same fuel / air mix, then they all run at the same temperature. 1 and 6 run slightly lean on the VR6, more so 1 as C2 said. You can of course add more fuel to the rear bank, software / hardware dependant obviously. I add 3% more fuel to the rear bank.
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Hey there! Yes we use the SPA one here because it's the best manifold for right hand drive applications. I'm not convinced the manifolds we get here in the UK are genuine SPA ones because the lettering is ground off and the port alignment is shockingly bad. I would like to try a proper one from SPA one day.
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Bummer :-( Hope it is just the rings and not a full rebore job!
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Really? That's some pretty rotten luck dude :-( Any idea why? You've got me concerned now as I use the same pistons, LOL!
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I've used 3 Elrings and on each occasion, the gasket weeped oil at the pulley end. Stealth Racing experienced the same problem on several head rebuilds. I tried permatex copper adhesive spray on an Elring (as did Stealth) and the problem remained. The last gasket I did was a Reinz one with copper spray and it's been perfect for over 15K now..... A lot of the leaking is down to head and block surface imperfections, but the reinz gasket and permatex certainly help enormously.
