FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Pipercross VIS kit recommended over a BMC... im confused..
FishWick replied to TaNgOzVR6's topic in Engine Tuning
BMC is the undisputed champ. -
No. Stick to the standard one your engine came with!
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Yeah, that lump is removed on the alloy sumps :-)
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You have to import them I'm afraid mate. You just missed a group buy I did. 33 sets!! They came from - http://www.spturboparts.com/aftermarket/index.aspx The cams aren't currently on there as they've just revamped their site, but they're $375 + shipping etc normally if I remember right. They are ground from new blanks.
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Yeah that's right mate. You will see what I mean when you get the bits. My camera was out of action when I did this, otherwise I would have documented it properly. It'a a bit of a faff as you have to remove the plastic baffles to cut or drill a section out neatly. The baffles are screwed in, so come out easily. My R32 sump had some loose bits of casting flash under the baffles, so a good idea to remove those whilst you're there. Cheers
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Can't do Sunday mate, but I appreciate the offer...... :-) Nothing really wrong with the Standalone, apart from my own fussiness. It's a TPS v RPM map, so there's some part throttle inconsistency, but other than that, it's really good. I'm in the middle of writing a load based map (MAP) which should be more consistent in the part throttle. I've been fiddling with the standalone for 18 months and now I just want to get in and drive and not think about it. OBD2 has really good idle control and Mass air measurement is a lot nicer for low speed driving, so they're the main reasons I'm going C2.
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Depends what cams you go for. Take one bone stock Corrado Storm, OBD1. Drive into Stealth with 192hp and 186lb/ft torque. Add a pinch of Schimmel 263 cams, stir in some igntion and fuel, turn up the heat and come out with 221hp and 204lb/ft torque. That's a gain of 29hp and 18lb/ft. There is no other VR6 mod that I'm aware of that nets those gains for £187.90p (+ fitting and mapping).
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Good stuff. I've been running a standalone on my daily VRT for over 18 months now, but I want to go back to OBD2 again as it's a very good management system.
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Nice one Gary. I'll be following up with a report on C2's VR6 Turbo software in the near future ;-)
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Vr6t - Should i rebuild or replace turbocharger?
FishWick replied to Silverback's topic in Engine Tuning
No worries. You'll have no trouble with the 35R, it's tough as war bunkers, so let us know if you get one! :-) -
Vr6t - Should i rebuild or replace turbocharger?
FishWick replied to Silverback's topic in Engine Tuning
If you like your exsiting turbo, might be worth getting it checked out / rebuilt etc. But personally, if it were me, I'd treat it as an oppurtunity to upgrade to the 35R :-) -
Vince will VAG-COM it anyway but you're looking at around £250 + VAT for a remap.
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Of that list I'd choose Stealth every time.....
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Vr6t - Should i rebuild or replace turbocharger?
FishWick replied to Silverback's topic in Engine Tuning
Turbos can also whine a bit if you're using an open filter (there's nothing to silence it) and if your turbo has a anti-surge housing. Usually off boost. On boost it should be quiet / silent. The GT35 is certainly a very nice turbo, but it is expensive like you say. Consider importing one? -
Scooby's used to suffer a bad pressure differential in the engine bay. The pressure of the air coming through the front of the car at certain speeds exceeded the pressure of the air coming through the bonnect scoop, so the intercooler just used to heat up, hence being known as an "interheater". Many scoobs have blown their engines past 120mph because of this. I think they've corrected that now. Anyway, ICs behind bumpers a bad thing? Well, yes and no. Don't forget the IC is mounted in the bumper and therefore massively colder than metal in the engine bay, so even though hot turbo air may
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Vr6t - Should i rebuild or replace turbocharger?
FishWick replied to Silverback's topic in Engine Tuning
I take it your T04 was silent, then suddenly got loud? Is it a whine or a whistle? The turbo can whistle loudly if the compressor blades get mashed by debris getting sucked in. Have you inspected the turbo for any obvious damage? I would also check the turbo is getting a good oil supply as the bearings can whine loudly when they're screwed. In terms of GT35 versus T04, What T04 have you got mate? Trim? Exhaust AR? Exhaust bore size? Internal wastegate or external etc What rpm do you get your 10psi currently? The most common GT35R in VRT applications is the externally W' gated GT3582R -
Around the 220hp mark I suspect. Depends who does the mapping,
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You won't see much of a difference visually. They'll have at least +1mm more lift than standard. Stock duration is 'around' 230 I believe, but it varies. For example some very late US VR6s have assymetric cams to balance the air flow to the rear cylinders.... The VR6 was "throttled down" in the 90s because of German insurance. Anything over 200hp commanded a big premium hike. So the VR6, BMW 328i etc were all comfortably under 200hp. But put better cams and revised intakes on both and the power climbs northwards instantly.....
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OBD1 and 2 lambda sensors are both narrowband and will fit any standard cat.
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For the love of god, please help with AVCR!!!!!
FishWick replied to Liquid Dub's topic in Engine Tuning
It's bascially a PID loop. Have a look on Wiki to read how it works. "Duty" is the amount of boost you want, and "Gain" is the how aggressively it gets there. Starting with zero gain, set the duty to get the boost you want, say 20% to get 10psi for example, then you adjust the gain to the point where it starts to over shoot 10psi, then pull it back a few points. Done. It takes a while to setup on the road, but be very careful with the numbers or you can destroy the engine. Start off with no gain and small duty and work up from there. If you just want to simply set and maintain a target boo -
Yes and Yes. I have a normal set and also a shorter set for short runner use and both are excellent quality. They have the proper Bremi metal ends and the correct Beru coil pack ends.
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You just spray both sides of the spacer, and the top and bottom layers of the split MK4 gasket.
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Have you been raiding my photo albums again? That is me with one of my early prototype turbos. The one I use currently is 3 times the size :-)
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Yep, we're talking of the same thing.... The large volume of water provides a lot of latent heat capacity. Just like a big amplifier heat sink. My system is completely over kill for the boost I currently run, but that was intentional. And the intake temps reflect that - all year round. Should the day come where I want to run crazy boost, I know the capacity is there already :-)
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What C2 say basically. My local Morrisons sell E85, but I haven't yet tried it on my VR. I will be in the near future though. For it to work in an OE fashion, you need some way of detecting when E85 is present in the fuel system and an ECU capable of using that information to switch maps or compensate the existing maps automatically. Currently GM do an inline E85 sensor and I know that the DTA S80 / S100 standalone has automatic compensations and features built in, based on the GM 12570260 Ethanol sensor. Most injectors and pumps are OK with E85 (some say "Alcohol compatible" now) but I'm no
