Jump to content

jcorallo

Members
  • Content Count

    422
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jcorallo

  1. If its obd1, go to the measurement blocks section in vag-com and go up until you get to the fuel trim data. Post up what values it has for the idle, part throttle and full throttle adaptation. Dont forget the exact fault code message also...! Jules
  2. obd1 or obd2? also, you need to post the exact numbers and words that vag-com put on screen to be able to start to daignose the problem. oh - and I'm Jules!
  3. use a stick as a stethoscope and locate the tapping - it could be a tappet block. Open up the iol filler cap and see if the tapping is coming from in there. If its not there, could really be anything - even a worn idler pulley, a cracked water pump pulley or bad bearing, alternator..... list goes on....! get the steth'scope out if you cant find it normally. Jules
  4. humongous wheels - very R32! so I dont think it needs lowering as those massive things seem to fill the arches quite well.... I'll get me coat... Jules
  5. good stuff - nice when you find something like this, buried deep in the engine....! I suppose the poor MPG you were seeing was a symptom of a dead injector (could have been anything though.... !ill ) - the ECU would have been widening the injector pulse widths on the remaining 5 good injectors to make up a good Lambda signal..... the probe would have been seeing too much air I guess. Jules
  6. if it gets quicker as you rev it, then its not the evap valve....
  7. not really that noisey - audible, but not noisey. there is the evap valve down in that area near the pulleys - which clicks rapidly. You dont mean that do you? the other possibility is that since you fitted the schrick, your plug leads are arcing on something - maybe you split a lead or separated one from the metal portion, or one has come off the plug altogther - all which would make a click click noise.... either that, or you've only just started listening to your engine and have picked up on a noise that has always been there....! Jules
  8. For me its about learning a skill and a demonstration of that skill - showing an understanding of a subject and being able to help others. For some people its body work, with me its mechanical. Believe me, if I had a TVR, sooner or later it would have a supercharger kit fitted and would be kicking out 500bhp, instead of 350bhp, and I'd be answering questions about TVR's on a TVR forum...... Jules
  9. Phat, You have a Turn2 front pulley and a Fidanza flywheel fitted yes? So...... How did you find TDC then? I'm presuming that the Turn2 doesnt have the little TDC notch and that the Fidenza doesnt have a TDC marker line either.... which would mean you'd used another method of locating TDC. If so, did you use the "clutch cover plate pointer via the inspection hole in the bell-housing" method?? cos there are two pointers (on standard clutches anyway) and its been known that people can pick the wrong one..... Its just a thought. Its also a thought that if the Fidanza did have a TDC marker, then i
  10. What ECU map are you running? 2.9? its not something you can theorise about on a forum thread really - you really need it checking and mapping if necessary, on a RR. You could say that for the extra air its pulling in (~150cc?), its still within a safe margin of being so lean that it melts the pistons or causes bad knock. But you dont know till you get your wallet out and stick it on a RR and get a fuel curve. Personally, I reckon the ECU will cope with it during closed loop, but for WOT, you'll need to have upped the fuel pressure a bit just in case. 5.0bar might be too rich for the extra ~15
  11. what you thinking? ecus not y2k compliant?
  12. Have you tried using the actual key to unlock the boot?
  13. oh - and today I went to Inters - its the first long run (about 100miles) I've had in the car since fitting the Schrick - and am still agast at the wodge of torque I now have from 3000 to 4000rpms....! The back of the car really squats down now - I actually started to think I might break something...! When the Schrick has finished its job, the SC takes over and we're off again....! !amazed Jules
  14. no - this is what happens on these threads - no one reads them fully.....! %-6 I've edited my thread and removed the plot - As mina says, I've got a 2.9 with SC... The graph was taken from here. This link is a page that has a collection of VR6 dyno graphs. On the subject of that graph - I reckon thats the plot you might get if you went with a stock chip. As Vince said - when re-chipping for a Schrick, he does one run with the flap open and one run with the flap shut. Where the two plots cross is a good point to set the switchover. He can then also optimise the chip for each side of the switc
  15. You guys should have a look at some real world dynos so you know what you are getting. edited: to remove mis-leading dyno graph... [ Edited Sat May 08 2004, 09:34PM ]
  16. yeah - they (Schrick) could have used a little stepper motor or a plain solenoid for the flap instead of all that vac stuff.... Jules
  17. I was having a think to myself about this. Your throttle body - its larger isnt it? I know one thing - that a larger throttle body can cause a loss of low down torque as the air is moving slower. Do you still have your old TB? It might be an idea to refit it and see how you go. I have a spare one for your car if you are stuck which you can try. I know that my car felt less powerfull when I fitted the 2.9 engine - which has the larger manifold and TB. It is more powerful (more bhp) but less torquey. Its just a thought..... With the SC plus Schrick, I found that I was boosting sooner - my water
  18. it will make your 2.8 less torquey. The 2.9 manifold has an enlarged plenum (look underneath it and you'll see they are different). Now although this allows air to flow more freely in the manifold, it also has the effect of slowing the air down at lower revs which is where you lose the torque. You'll also have the 2.9 throttle body, which again is slightly larger, but again, this has the effect of slowing the air down. Personally, I wouldnt do it - the VR needs all the torque it can get. If you fit it, you'll spend more time over 4000rpms than below it trying to make it 'go'. Jules [ Edited Su
  19. regarding the insurance - I think mine will be the same next year - around £600 (with 5000 miles limited) fully comp. Goes to about £700 for unlimited miles. The policy is a general modified policy with a max bhp limit of 250, but you have to detail all mods of course... I've just declared these mods and some others (water injection, change of wheels, change of suspension) to my insurance company and they charged me £60 - which is more of an 'admin' fee - the insurance cost will be the same next year, if not a little less as my points should have gone by then! Jules [ Edited Sun May 02 2004,
  20. nah mate! i'm in essex..... sorry! Start of an interesting thread here regarding normally aspirated VR6 with Schrick: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1367956 Jules
  21. Well, here she is (my car looks like all those I used to see in the VW mags now... ) Here are some other images: http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/schrick/2.jpg http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/schrick/3.jpg http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/schrick/4.jpg http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/schrick/5.jpg How hard to fit? Straight forward enough - a few bits and bobs that made me have to use my own brain: Ok - this is a Golf 1993 VR6 and OBD1: 1) The redundant bracket at the back of the manifold to the right as you look at it - the instructions say to bin it - but mine had all earth
  22. Screeecchhhhh..... Just got back from my garage.... spent the day fitting the Schrick....! Am I the first person to have fitted their Schrick then? Jules 8o) 8o) 8o) 8o) 8o) 8o) 8o) 8o) 8o)
  23. $229 = £229 after import duty, tax, handling charge and shipping.... fallen for that one many times
×
×
  • Create New...