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jcorallo

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Everything posted by jcorallo

  1. jcorallo
    sounds more like the oil cooler housing to me.... When you undo that big bolt that faces the rad, the whole oil cooler will come away from the block. IIRC there are two seals - one each side of the oil cooler. Jules [ Edited Thu Apr 01 2004, 10:25PM ]
  2. jcorallo
    If your car is mapped properly, the engine should hold ok with a stock SC kit. Its when things go wrong, like pinging or running lean, that head gaskets start to blow. You just need one sensor to stop working and off it goes. Recall that on the RR, my car was came up on Vince's screen as "shagged" - I'm telling you, my car is cursed! %-6 Mina - 317bhp (SC + many mods) Ben - 274bhp (SC + no modes) Simey - 274bhp (SC + vgi) Jules - 236bhp - ar$e I think my engine is in backwards. Jules
  3. jcorallo
    A VAG-COM is an aftermarket bit of kit that VW enthusiasts use to diagnose their cars - it basically does the same thing as what a real VW dealership computer diagnostic machine does (otherwise know as a vag-1551). You plug it into the diagnostics port behind the dash on your VW and it tells you whats wrong. The kit consists of a special lead that allows you to connect your laptop computer to your cars diagnostic socket. You run the Windows software that comes with the lead, and it scans the car for faults and shows them on screen. http://www.ross-tech.com/ I have one - as do many others on he
  4. jcorallo
    Yes - bought some 'performance silicone' leads from GSF and the teeth bit right into all of them leaving little 5mm long splits in the leads. Back they went to GSF with the explanation - and top people - they gave me my money back. So I try and get standard ones whenever needed...! Jules
  5. jcorallo
  6. jcorallo

    How jammy!

    jcorallo replied to MarkGolf's topic in General Chat

  7. jcorallo
    oh, and you can get a coilpack from either: 1) GSF Thurrock 2) EuroCarparts (Rayliegh or Chelmsford, Wood Green) 3) VAG Cheers, Jules
  8. jcorallo
    link is http://www.jct29.com/
  9. jcorallo
  10. jcorallo
    I actually got it from GSF (specifically, the one in Thurrock). When ever you want Bosch stuff - get the guy on the phone to go and check the stock to see that its in a yellow box.... their computer screens dont allways show up which brand the item is.... Jules
  11. jcorallo
    eVil - Cant you just log in to http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com and order one? [ Edited Mon Mar 22 2004, 10:42PM ]
  12. jcorallo
    Yep - on mine, the tops of the actual senders on the housing are blue, and one is yellow - so it was easy to match them all up. You might just need to clean up the plastic around the sensor to see it. Jules
  13. jcorallo
    Got to admit, the sound of a K&N on my VR was good for the first couple of months - then I started to feel embarassed actually - you would find that it would make LOADS of noise just trying to overtake normally - but you wouldnt be going that fast in reality. You kind of get sick at people looking at you on the street when you are not actually doing that much... I really enjoyed putting the stock airbox back on - it was whisper quiet and still pulled the same - stealthy!! I could ramp up the revs in built up areas and it didnt attract attention to what I was up to.....! Jules
  14. jcorallo
    not 100% on this, but if you were to install the tensioner with it fully out, you might literally snap the tensioner blade - but like I say, not 100% sure... The thing I'm not sure about, is if you install the tensioner fully pumped out, whether it will automatically bleed down to relieve some of the tension on the blade??? You need to compress the bolt so that when you install it, the blade is pressing on the chain enough for it to not jump off when you try and start the engine for the first time. You should be able to see a tide mark yes? Well compress it to just below this as a guide and gi
  15. jcorallo
    Thank god for that! - and thanks for posting the eventual fix - too many of these posts on car forums go un-unsolved...! Riddle me this: was the GSF Lambda probe a Beru item? I bought one from ECP, it was a Beru, and there was no signal coming out of it... bit the bullet and bought a genuine Bosch item and all hunky dorey. Jules
  16. jcorallo
    This thread gave me the inspiration to just nip outside and try adjusting mine - cos I have the same problem where it wont go into 1st that easy when at a standstill - was trying to adjust it and I noticed that there is a lot of play in the slider block - looks like its very worn on my gearbox.... this slider is the thing that pull and pushes the selector up and down at the gearbox side... mine is very loose so adjusting isnt going to help that much for me.... lucky I've got a spare that I can install - just found one in the shed. Jules
  17. jcorallo
  18. jcorallo
    hey mate - just in from a night out on the town - hence why i'm posting at a stoopid time. You simply remove the tensioner bolt, and stick a stiff piece of wire in the small hole on the end - whilst compressing the bolt down. This is the hole in the very end as shown in the Bently. The idea is that the wire presses on the valve inside and releases the oil inside allowing it to compress. You can usually see a 'tide' mark on the bolt - which indicates where the bolt usually sits with respect to length. I usually compress it to just below this (shorter). If you compress the bolt too short, there
  19. jcorallo
    Following this thread eagerly... If you could find where B goes, that would be great! I guess it goes to a condenser or something near the radiator - then comes up at the drivers side? Jules
  20. jcorallo
    Hi Although the timing chains can stretch very slightly (knocks the cam timing off a little) the actual chains are normally reliable and last until the sun explodes. The tensioner blade on the other hand, is known to wear down by 100k miles, sometimes less, and you dont always get a rattle to indicate its wearing. If you are proficient with a spanner, within a few hours you can inspect the blade - you just have to remove the inlet manifold and cam cover. Unfortunately, as you prob know, its a gearbox off task to replace the blade if its badly worn... Cheers, Jules
  21. jcorallo
    Does the £80 fitting include a proper alignment? If not, this can be another £50 on top minimum.... but I would expect 'fitting' to include the alignment really....
  22. jcorallo
    touchy? you have no sense of humour? The post was meant to make you smile! It was a friendly jib. Did you not see the abundance of smilies and winks in the post?!? Oh well, no offence intended. Peace. Jules [ Edited Thu Mar 18 2004, 08:36AM ]
  23. jcorallo
    Well - you open your gob and in goes your foot. !dodge I've looked in the Bently for the method, and cant see it mentioned anywhere. Can anyone see it anywhere? The layout of that book is pants. I've searched on the net, using Google, and all the sites I find say remove the oil pan!! So where the f*ck have I got this idea from?!? Maybe I'm just a bit cleverer being an IT Consultant and all? !alien Anyway, call it a draw! both methods work. I found this site on gti-vr6.net and this site on the Corrado Club of America... both saying use the oil pan method. I found this site on vr6.o
  24. jcorallo
    From a business perspective, I suppose it makes sense to get to sell the customer a gallon of oil and a sump gasket, together with the extra labour required.... when fitting a suspension component. Or am I being cynical? Jules
  25. jcorallo
    Windsor Blue - but it shows the dirt, so my next car will be Silver!
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