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jcorallo

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Everything posted by jcorallo

  1. jcorallo
    oh, and copper head gaskets only 'last' about 5k miles before the paste used to glue them on, disintegrates and casues leaks.
  2. jcorallo
    1) check out your Charger chip - is it the right one for your engine? 2) has the ECU thrown any codes, like bad knock sensor? Is the engine generally in good tune? Can you hear pinging? 3) is it over-heating? Is the thermostat working? OK - above are the general reasons you might have a leaky gasket... Generally, a copper or uprated gasket is not what you want. Your gasket wont have blown in the traditioanl sense I'm betting. You'll find that the extra boost and heat lifts the VR6 head off the block and allows pressure to seep into the water passages, either side of the gasket. This is laregly
  3. jcorallo
    if the chains ARE stretched to any degree, then its useless just buying new chains - as the cam sprockets will be 'worn' to the old chain. Jules
  4. jcorallo
    Some stretch is inevitable, but the tensioner will wear out long before the chain stretches noticeably, IMHO.
  5. jcorallo

    Elite Direct

    jcorallo replied to tommy's topic in General Chat

    yeah - I think the managers put a lot of pressure on the little guys to get thinigs done as quickly as possible, esp when its busy like on a Saturday. So mistakes happen. I dunno - maybe I expected too much - when I took my car to be tracked/cambered, I'd thought that if they could see there was a problem, I'd get advised. I think its just a case of, they just dont diagnose problems, its not what they do, they just fit new parts (tyres, suspension, exhausts etc) and set suspension up. Nothing else. Fair dos I suppose. So its not a place to go if you have a problem with your car to start with.
  6. jcorallo

    Elite Direct

    jcorallo replied to tommy's topic in General Chat

    I'll stick my oar in with this one. I go to Elite all the time - mainly cos there is no-one else I've found that can do camber in Essex near to me. In the main, they are OK - but it does depend on who you get. They do employ a lot of very young mecahnics and I sometimes felt that they didnt give a shit about how accurate their work was. I also found that they revved the bollox off my car (sort of held the throttle to the floor in order to start it up) when they had finished the work. Also drove it too fast from the workshop bay area back to the customer parking. Lack of respect and a hint of j
  7. jcorallo
    Two engine codes to look out for 1) AAA = 2.8 litre engine 2) ABV = 2.9 litre engine Get the newest engine you can afford and make sure its got the original ECU included. I would avoid early AAA and ABV engines as they had a distributor which makes buying an off-the-shelf performance chip harder. But you can convert an early distributor version to a later coilpack version with the right parts and a new ECU. Jules
  8. jcorallo
  9. jcorallo
    aargh - sorry - didnt see that you said drivers side... Mental note to self: read the post in future Jules
  10. jcorallo
    what cable? they are hydraulic systems?? Is this VR6 running in a MKII or something? Jules
  11. jcorallo
    could be the windscreen seal, but.... ...have a look under your rain tray (where your ECU sits), on the passenger side of the car. You may find that the water guttering around there is blocked with leaves and crud, which makes that area fill up with water. This is what mine did, and I found that the constant presence of water had caused the area around the heater air vent cover to rot - leaving a nice rust hole there.... straight into the footwell. Jules
  12. jcorallo
    Good work so far Pete! I think the bit that niggles me, is that when you view a thread, the font used for the title of the Thread is the same as all the other text (in that portion of the screen) - which makes it hard to spot initially.... Jules
  13. jcorallo
    I can assure you (I'm pretty sure anyway! ), the *charger* brackets are common between all VR6 12 valve models/years - so I'm guessing you are talking about the pulley bracket then? If so, the only differences are for Air Conditioned and Non Air Conditioned models. The Non AC bracket will have an extra pulley. You can get the brackets from any supplier of your kit - they are about 120 quid... Jules [ Edited Sun Oct 24 2004, 11:59AM ]
  14. jcorallo
    [blockquote] Another possibility is because I'm running an 11psi pulley on the 'charger and it was originally mapped with an 8.5psi one.[/blockquote] Sounds like the culprit to me. If you are mapped for 8.5psi, the charger would not have produced any boost until about 4k normally. Now you will be boosting earlier - hence pinking.... and the Schrick will be further amplifying this boost as well with its resonant effect. By the way - knock control only happens up to 4k, as there is too much mechanical noise from the engine after this point... Jules
  15. jcorallo
    unfortunately, you cant adjust the idle speed - and if it stalling, there is something wrong... so if you have a mate that had a VW diagnostics kit (VAG-COM) - hook it up and see if the ECU has thrown any error codes... not worth trying to guess whats wrong, you'll end up having a list that contains any of all the engine sensors...! Jules
  16. jcorallo
    You are talking about the evap control valve. This valve regulates the venting of fuel tank fumes into the engine manifold. Its an emissions thing. The suction of the engine is what draws the fumes through. As you've broken it, the manifiold is now sucking on fresh air and not the excess fuel fumes. Assuming you've broken it on the engine side of the valve (as you can hear it sucking all the time) get it fixed as soon as possible as, in effect, you now have a nice vacuum leak into the manifold. Jules
  17. jcorallo
    you can use an automotive stethoscope and probe that area of the engine to see if the noise you hear is actually coming from the chain area... Jules
  18. jcorallo

    Idea?

    jcorallo replied to julesz's topic in General Chat

    I think its a nice looking manifold, and looks well put together (in the promotional pics anyhow...) but am I the only one who thinks that what Kinetic have done with the turbo outlet (i.e. weld a 90deg on the end) is utter pants??? Jules
  19. jcorallo
    yeah - of the VR6 engines I've worked on, I've always found one of the camshaft end bolts to be OK to undo, and the other a right b*tch. Holding the cam steady while you do this, if in the car, is quite tricky. You tend to see the cam start to twist if the end bolt is so tight....! Jules
  20. jcorallo
    guys - peak HP is not what the Schrick manifold is about at all - its design is all about moving some more torque down the rev range. You need to quote before and after at 2000rpm, at 2500rpm, at 3000rpm, at 3500rpm and at 4000rpm etc etc Jules
  21. jcorallo
    I've done this - I installed the Corrado 2.9 engine which had a dizzy, into my Golf, which has the coilpack. You have to swap over the sprocket end cover and you can keep the same sprockets - you will also need to remove the distributor drive prongs and replace with the sender magnets etc. Very straight forward. Hardest bit is undoing the end bolts on the camshafts.....! Jules
  22. jcorallo
  23. jcorallo
    "by your command!!"
  24. jcorallo
    Well mate - you've started so you may as well finish....! The rest are at: http://www.bmwquebec.com/viewtopic.php?topic=137&forum=4 Jules
  25. jcorallo
    I think that tube is to do with engines that have exhaust gas recirculation.... which ours didnt... Jules
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