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jcorallo

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Everything posted by jcorallo

  1. jcorallo
    heh! I do like trying it on with bikes myself....! Its funny seeing them do the "double take" when they see you start really going for it....! Then you see them squat down behind the little screen and start really concentrating as they wind the bike out....! lol! Jules PS: not beat any though, but gave em a run for their money...! well, more than they expected anyway....!
  2. jcorallo
    yeah - mine revs to 11,000rpm - and it also rattles a lot - followed by a long long long silence........! heh! Seriously though, the VR6 is known for wearing out chain tensioners. The only way to daignose it is to pull the cover off and see for yourself. There are also instances of the chain tensioner bolt not holding pressure, but this is less common. Jules
  3. jcorallo
    first question - why were they checking your engine out? Was it at the garage to diagnose a problem? Had you blown a hose or something recently? I have a "sniffer" that you stick in the cooling system expansion tank - it sniffs the air to see if it contains CO2 gases - if positive, the gasket is leaking combustion gases into the cooling system. Jules
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  6. jcorallo
    ahhhh - tommy - yes! Free KFC please!
  7. jcorallo
    yep. Another ill concieved idea is that the insurance company wont notice that you've modified the car if you have a crash.... Utter nonsense. Its not the spotty kid on the phone who you spoke to pay for your insurace who will come out to your car in the event of an accident or fatality. Think: crash scene investigators, forensic investigators - people who know thier $hit. Rant over! Jules
  8. jcorallo
    Start from the basics: if your car is modified from standard, you have to declare it. No ifs or buts or its modified with bits from another VW. Modified is modified. If you havent declared and you have a crash, then your insurance company has the right to nullify your insurance cover. So you will not get paid for damage to the other person/car or for your car, and more importantly, it means you were driving without insurance - so the Police will absolutely throw the book at you - a large fine, points on the license and even a custodial sentence depending on if you killed someone else. Just not
  9. jcorallo
    eVil - I'm waiting for the "my engine has died for some reason" post....!
  10. jcorallo

    TIMING CHANINS

    jcorallo replied to beng's topic in General Chat

    and to be honest, when removing the old one, I'd be tempted to just snap the plastic off with brute force, rather than trying to drill rivets....! Once the plastic's gone, the rivets would prob just fall out... Jules
  11. jcorallo

    TIMING CHANINS

    jcorallo replied to beng's topic in General Chat

    yes - the front blade comes out OK without removing the gearbox - its bolted at the top and slotted onto a bar at the bottom. I've got a hand rivet gun thats got a bendy neck thing for getting into tight spots - might work....? but yes, I'd also put glue on it as well. Just need to find something suitable - which there might not be? Cant think of anywhere in an engine thats glued off the top of my head - maybe some sort of head gasket glue used on diesels? To stop bits falling into the engine, you'd pad it well with rags and maybe even dab the area with a bit of grease to catch the small bits?
  12. jcorallo

    TIMING CHANINS

    jcorallo replied to beng's topic in General Chat

    I was reading an interesting vwvortex thread, where someone said it might be possible to disassemble the newly bought tensioner blade, removing the plastic portion, and re-riveting it to the existing metal support after removig the worn portion, whilst on the engine in situ. A bit like re-lining brake shoes... Sounds feasible...........! Jules
  13. jcorallo
  14. jcorallo
    yes - 114 is a bad sign. It should be hovering around 98 to 104ish. Its prob a stuck closed thermostat. Get it sorted or you'll blow the engine or other bits. Jules
  15. jcorallo
    oh - and what I meant ("world of pain") was that you cant just move the MAF about the place and expect it all to still work....!
  16. jcorallo
    Yep - just replace the pipe. I dont understand why you are not doing this? What wrong with it the way it was meant to be? Jules
  17. jcorallo
    heh - welcome to my world of pain...!
  18. jcorallo
    I did try this when I first got my Bentley book, but then discovered that my car doesnt have a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - turns out that UK OBD1 cars dont have them as far as I can see??? Jules
  19. jcorallo
    Fuel pump relay? About £8 from ECP. heh - the list goes on! I fitted an inline fuel pressure gauge the other weekend. Pressure on mine is good and the FPR works OK. Also, holds pressure for a long period when the engine is off thus ruling out leaky injectors or the fuel pump check valve. Quality bit of on-baord diagnostic kit I thought!! Jules
  20. jcorallo
    @vrpat - um - scrub what I said - fundamental mistake - I didnt ask if you were OBD1 or OBD2! !dodge You are OBD2 so the VAG-COM info will be different. What I said above still holds true generally, but the info you get will be different I think. OBD2 gives you a LOT more details about how the engine is running but I cant help you in this respect. I suggest having a search through (or pop a post up) on the VAG-COM group on Yahoo.....! Jules
  21. jcorallo
    Kev - I personally had a knock sensor go bad on my VR - but the ECU never stored a code until I actually thrashed the engine. I would hear the pings then I would see a code thrown in that order. This is different from what that link/ref above says... Do you hear any pings? I used to hear them around 3000 to 4000 when I suddenly planted the throttle (with a hot engine). When my car was pinging, it was really loud. It actually sounded like a bracket had come loose on my exhaust or something. Bad stuff. Definitely noticeable. There is also a possibilty that you are running lean. It could be the i
  22. jcorallo
    Looking at this, I was slightly out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1108/faq.vr6.html * Self-diagnosis: * The ECU recognized an open circuit if no signal from knock sensor I (G61) or knock sensor II (G66) is received by the ECU at an engine coolant temperature above 40° C (104° F).
  23. jcorallo
    re the knock sensors... I dont think the ECU throws a code when they are detached at idle. The ECU will however throw a code if you took the car for a drive with them detached as the ECU expects inputs when the engine is under load..... i.e. when you've got your foot on the fast pedal. Obviously best not to try this though! If you run the car without the sensors you WILL get pings which are not good! Hope that helps Jules
  24. jcorallo
    This is a good sign - a person on this forum that actually spelt "you're" correctly and in context! Your all going over their. Aaarrggghhh!!! Sorry - off topic.... Jules
  25. jcorallo
    00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 14-00 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded =============================== @vrpat - Go back to your VAG-COM and find what value the idle adaptation measurement block has. Go through the measurement blocks till you get to the one that shows "Idle Adaptation" and "Part Throttle Adaptation". The idle code should be at or near 1.0 So if its greater than 1.0, the ECU is adding fuel to try and counteract a lean condition. This can be an air leak in the intake, or even near the Lambda probe at the cat. If the cat gasket is blown for example, you'll see this code approx +1.5
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