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jcorallo

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Everything posted by jcorallo

  1. jcorallo
    Pearl Jam all the way - has been since a teenager (long time ago!). Got all the albums in the changer at the mo. Its deff not the sort of music you can play to your mates and hope they appreciate - its the sort of stuff that grows on you over time, then you just have to keep listening to it! Went over to the states for my last 3 hols, and was in heaven as they get a lot of air-time over there! Jules
  2. jcorallo
    I was thinking of getting some of these from www.sparkplugs.co.uk. Does anyone have any idea what Denso quality is like compared to NGK? Jules
  3. jcorallo
    wow - didnt know estate agents sold polishing kits....
  4. jcorallo
    feck....
  5. jcorallo
    erm - if you are changing the cams, you wont be needing to hold them still now will you??!! but I see what you mean. Your main worry is maintaining the correct crank position when you install the new cams. What you need to do, is get a couple of strips of metal wide enough to fit comfortably into the slots in the end of the cams. The surrounding areas of the head are at the right level for it to hold it horizontal. Get the engine to TDC, and the cam slots perfectly horizontal with the metal strips. Check about a million times where the crank is - even use some white marker paint or somethi
  6. jcorallo
    1) stick an M8 bolt into the tensioner to release the belt tension 2) remove tensioner bolts x 3 and tensioner 3) undo front and rear engine mount bolts 4) jack engine up a few inches 5) use allen key to undo alt bolts - you need to lift the engine to let the long bolts come right out 6) undo wiring to alternator 7) lever alternator away from support If putting a different alternator back, you might need to adjust the circular/tubular steel spacers where the alternator mounts to the enigne bracket - just use a good pair of mole grips, or a vice to budge them along a bit if needed, otherwise th
  7. jcorallo
    You need the metal one if you (like me) tend to try and work on your engine after you've taken it for a drive. Try and remove your plug leads from a hot engine with the plastic one and see how long you rave on about them!!! Jules
  8. jcorallo
    SnapOn Stock Number: YA9818 Name: Puller/Installer, Spark Plug Boot, 12" Price: £33.15 excl. VAT / £38.95 incl. VAT (not incl del.) [ Edited Mon Jun 07 2004, 06:33PM ]
  9. jcorallo

    Ideas?

    jcorallo replied to yeeha's topic in General Chat

    its your front control arm bushes - the large circular horizontal ones at the back of the control arm. when they wear/split, the whole wheel can move back and forth in the arch quite a bit. Problem solved. Jules [ Edited Fri May 28 2004, 09:49PM ]
  10. jcorallo
    we all the ebay turbo kit. he am de best, mofo.
  11. jcorallo
    you can use the engines own vacuum signal to make the actuator work: 1) disconnect the vac line that goes to the actuator 2) obtain a spare 1metre length of vac tubing 3) start the engine and allow it to tick over 4) using the spare bit of vac tubing attach one end to the actuator 5) undo the pipe where you tee'd into the fuel pressure regulator line which goes to the Schrick vac reservoir 6) attach the other end of the spare vac tubing to this location. 7) actuator should operate and quickly flip the flap to the open. 8) undo the spare vac line, and the flap should flip back to the closed pos
  12. jcorallo
    also, with rattles, its good to get an automotive stethoscope (or just a wooden stick up against your ear) and listen around to ascertain the exact source of the rattle. Jules
  13. jcorallo
    hi The rattle could be a sign of a worn tensioner, but at 60k miles that would be strange as they usually last till gone 100k. It hard to say really without hearing it myself. As for the aux pump, they are sealed units so have to be replaced as one - no gaskets. Just check its not a leaky hose/joint first though.... Jules
  14. jcorallo
    Looking at this picture, the pipe thats in the middle to the right, is the one that connects the MAF to the throttle body. It looks like its the right length - as you can see, one side of it is a bit longer than the other. For reference, it actually fits in the engine bay the other way round as shown in the pic above. Jules
  15. jcorallo
    This is totally wrong as far as I can see, This intake pipe now contains boost - and you have left the crankcase breather pipe connected to this. So what you have here is some of the boost going into the engine crankcase, instead of the manifold. Do no run your car like this - get the proper pipe.. Jules
  16. jcorallo
    thread hijack - thread hijack!! tell me why you think this...... what is your thinking behind this? Jules
  17. jcorallo
    Think I'll bid it to £450 then - just to pi$$ you off....! :D Jules
  18. jcorallo
    ...also - I'd be surprised if the standard piping could withstand being pumped up to 0.6bar....!
  19. jcorallo
  20. jcorallo
    most actually run about 275bhp
  21. jcorallo
    high? thats how it makes the power! you get about 15bhp per psi as a rough rule of thumb... Jules
  22. jcorallo
    ZR2 produces 0.6 bar at full tilt - about 7000 engine rpms. The "stage" is on the kit, not the charger. So a stage 2 Z kit comes with cams. Jules
  23. jcorallo
    Zr1 has ribbed pulleys (rubbish) Zr2 has toothed pulleys (good) Jules
  24. jcorallo
    ok - 97 - its OBD2 I'm in Essex - Billericay and Basildon, and regulary travel to Blackburn, Manchester area and Liverpool... Jules
  25. jcorallo
    It doesnt disable the other sensors. If you disconnect the MAF, the ECU uses the Throttle Position Sensor input as a substitute so that the car will still run, and vice versa. You shouldnt just buy a MAF without getting a diagnosis from a VW garage or a Bosch expert. Using a VAG-COM is OK, but you still need a certain level of skill to interpret the results - so proced with caution! Jules
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