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jcorallo

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Everything posted by jcorallo

  1. jcorallo
    oh - about the ECU - this is the interesting bit. The Golf 2.8 Coilpack ECU is EXACTLY the same box of electronics as the Corrado 2.9 Coilpack ECU. The 2.8 ECU ends with ...258 AF and the matching Corrado ECU number ends with ...258 AG. They just have different chips installed. So all you need to swap over is the actual chip. Of course, you could just try and locate a whole ECU - but I was lucky enough to be practically given a Corrado 2.9 SC chip. If you are stuck though, the 2.9 will still run on the 2.8 ECU.... I ran my SC 2.9 with the SC 2.8 chip for a while, and there was no pinking. Inte
  2. jcorallo
    yes - as long as you are OBD1. All Corrado 2.9's are OBD1 - whether coilpack or dizzy - OBD1. The sensors and their plugs are the same from 2.8 to 2.9. The reason I swapped the loom was simply because of the slightly different wiring for the coilpack vs. dizzy area... As for the box, yes - straight in - but you have to swap over your old selector lever mech from your 2.8 gearbox if you want to keep the L-shaped counter balance weight (which I did). The corrado counter balance weight is a different shape to the Golfs'. It would foul the chassis leg if you left it on - which I discovered just as
  3. jcorallo
    Yes - me too - well impressed! Is yours the ERL system? I also wired in a dash LED to the pressure switch which tells me when its pumping (or at least when the switch is open ). I'm using a 60/40 water/isopropanol mix. I've mounted a screen wash tank from a Mini in the boot - fites nicely. I wanted to use a separate tank as I planned from the start to be using paint rotting additives....! Jules
  4. jcorallo
    My Golf was originally a 2.8. It is OBD1 and has a coilpack ignition. Its a very late 93. I bought a very early 93 Corrado 2.9 engine and box. The 2.9 came with a distributor, not coilpack. To get around this, I simply 1) removed the 2.9 distributor 2) removed the 2.9 cam chain cover 3) removed the drive prongs from the end of the 2.9 camshaft 4) removed the 2.9 engine wiring loom 5) installed the 2.8 cam position magnet to the end of the 2.9 cam 6) installed the 2.8 cam chain cover and sensor to the 2.9 7) installed the 2.8 coilpack to the 2.9 engine 8) installed the 2.8 wiring loom to the 2
  5. jcorallo
    Just looked myself, and as you say, they've removed the Sprintline kit option. Dunno why? Maybe call them and see what they say... They are thus not offering a kit for the MK3 in the midrange £300-£400 bracket - must be a mistake.... Jules
  6. jcorallo
    hello 1993 VR6 with coilpack. Right - electrics arent my thing..... %-6 so...... Does anyone have any idea if there are any spare electrical connectors in the engine bay on a 93 VR6, that show a positive signal with the ignition switched on? If not, where is the best bit to tap into it? Yes - I could trail a wire all the way up to the ignition switch, but I'd rather be a bit cleverer...! For info, this is a low amp requirement - its a signal wire to control the relay for my water injection. The kind of obvious place is the coilpack - but I'm real reluctant to tamper with the signal to this
  7. jcorallo
    My adjustable damping Spax PSX kit failed miserably after 2-3 years use - all the oil fell out and the springs snapped eventually. Utter garbage - but maybe I just had a bad batch? Now I've got the Bilstein Sprintline kit. I bought it from Eurocarparts and fitted it myself - I didnt want to go with adjustables again as I dont do track work and had no use for them - I just wanted something that was good and not likely to fail. The Sprintlines were the most expensive of the 'basic' non-adjustable kits on offer - so thats why I went for it. No problems yet - its been on for about 6months - I chec
  8. jcorallo
    mate - stick with me - safety in numbers!!! Mina had these cams also - supposed to be the cats conkers for SC apps yes? These are what I'm considering at some point also.... egggs-fuggin-actly mate. x) !ill mind you, I've always thought the VR6 engine as a whole was a bag of spanners to look at.
  9. jcorallo
    looks to me like someons has overlayed the engine BHP with Schrick over the wheel BHP without Schrick.
  10. jcorallo
    Ok - dont get me wrong, any benefit in low down torque is not to be sniffed at - I've been looking at these things for ages - I've got a stack of jpegs of them from every angle. But what I dont have is a before and after torque graph from a standard VR6. Anyone? Jules
  11. jcorallo
    well, maybe I'm just the voice of reason here! but I'm just unsure........ You know, I got a right old blasting off them on the cgti forum (and others) for spending £2500 on a SC kit that "only gave me 70bhp" (yet I could have spent £3500 on a Turbo and got double this) - yet here we are looking at buying a £1000 bit of kit that, as far as I can see, doesnt give you any more BHP (maybe 5 or 6 up top like a filter and exhaust maybe), it just makes the car a tad more torquey lower down......! Go figure! How many of you have actually driven one? How quiet will this thread be when you've all spen
  12. jcorallo
    looking at page 24a-13 (how complex is Bently numbering?) half way up the page, there is an AC on signal + and -, and also a couple of circuit wires that control the AC clutch.... This cant be all that hard - I'm really up for tackling this at some point. Jules
  13. jcorallo
    Arf! You cant use the OEM engine cover with the Schrick, but with the VW MotorSport VSR, you can.... take a look at Simey's car in the members gallery, and compare with the pics I posted here earlier.... Jules
  14. jcorallo
    as oposed to round the side or under it?!?!
  15. jcorallo
    by your command - just VSR's here: http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/vsr/vsr1.jpg http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/vsr/vsr2.jpg http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/vsr/vsr3.jpg http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/vsr/vsr4.jpg http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/vsr/vsr5.jpg http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/vsr/vsr6.jpg http://corallo.mysite.freeserve.com/vsr/vsr7.jpg Jules
  16. jcorallo
    As the topic says - impressed or depressed? Worth the money? Jules
  17. jcorallo
    they are on sale in EuroCarParts in the UK! - I saw them in the Rayleigh branch at weekend. Guy reckons they are around £200. Jules
  18. jcorallo
    yep - me no expert on this either - but its a subject I think about every summer now...! One thing I know, is that (on some cars - vr6 included I think?) there is an extra input to the ECU to tell it when the AC pump is ON, due to the extra load on the engine at tickover, it stops the engine from stalling..... or something Jules [ Edited Tue Mar 02 2004, 04:43PM ]
  19. jcorallo
    ok - sorry to labour the point - but when I looked under my car, the rubber brake flexi hoses were attached to the beam via a bracket. I didnt see any immediate way of lowering the beam without undo-ing the brake system at least at the flexi union. Admitibly I only had a real quick look. Now I know that these cars have everything held on by clips usually - did I miss seeing that the flexi hoses are mounted on detachable clips or something? I need to have another look I know - but weekend is a long way away! Jules
  20. jcorallo
    For info - the £800 sees you with a brand new block with new pistons direct from VW. It doesnt include crank, conrods, bolts, bearings, oil pump etc etc etc etc etc its just a block and 6 pistons. Jules
  21. jcorallo
    Whooooaaaa. Just my opinion OK - DYOR! (Do Your Own Research)
  22. jcorallo
    yeah - when I was tugging about on it I thought there wasnt much resistance - so if I was stuck I could tie them up no probs. Some of them 1cm wide ones would do the trick - you can tow a car with them!
  23. jcorallo
    dont you have to uncouple the brake pipes and then re-bleed at least? I had a real quick shufty the other week, and it looked too much hassle for on a Sunday. Too many things could have broken and stopped me getting to work on the Monday....! [ Edited Mon Mar 01 2004, 09:57PM ]
  24. jcorallo
    um - flood the market with cheap VSR's - not likely
  25. jcorallo
    I didnt actually know what the clanking was - I was convinced it was the exhaust having a walk about the chassis as I knew the back box had come loose... To be honest, if you are really really stuck (bodge-it and blop-it) you could use some really strong zip ties. cant belive I said it - but it would work short term as a get you home. Jules [ Edited Mon Mar 01 2004, 09:44PM ]
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