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acf8181

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Everything posted by acf8181

  1. bolting the thing on is quite simple i think, think you'd need the coilpack, the top chain cover, and maybe new cam sprokets and thats it. not sure about the wiring though, but i'd have thought you'd need an engine loom and prob a different ecu (tho if you get uprated management that solves it). ...these are only educated guesses though. maybe worth trying to speak to phatvr6 think he's done the reverse before now.
  2. i've just checked on etka and its deffo 021 103 483 D i looked at a '97 car. i'm guessing when you went in you said its a '95 car, so thats where the obd changeover was, hence the two part no's. if you look at a '93 car it'll have just the earlier part no. vw parts can't handle it when you ask for stuff that isn't normally found on your year of vr6, so its easier to ask for the year the part came off. usually the safe bet is to ask for '97 for obd2 parts and '93 for obd1.
  3. nah, i've had it off loads of times...easy as pie. just goes back on no probs.
  4. went to see if i could get the part no off mine...problem, i can't jack the car up on my own as its too low at the front for the trolley jack to fit! will try again when i have some help if someone else doesn't do it first. think the part no may be on the inside of the plate so it'll have to be removed to see it.
  5. most vr's have had an abs prob at some pint, except mine so i can't help. but there'll be someone here in a sec who knows.
  6. you just know sooner or later that paint is gonna end up on some chav's saxo or corsa!
  7. just order one for a '97 car, then it'll deffo be obd2. or do you mean there was to variants even in that year?
  8. nah, that one was totally without warning...haven't i explained this before?! ~
  9. most manufacturers will do a set, i'd go with gmax myself, cheap and good.
  10. it'll be leads or coilpack then (theres a 'misfire' thread a few threads down in the forum )
  11. i'd look into sooner rather than later...something usually go pops if you leave it long enough (or at least thats what happened to me) if its boliing out the top of the header tank (through the breather) then it's quite poosibly the thermostat sticking.
  12. tell you what, if it ain't raning tomoz i'll jack my car up and have a look for ya.
  13. in my mind its more logical to get a custom remap...i mean, every engine will be slightly different in characteristics won't it?
  14. i have a very very very slight vibration in the cabin, but my car isn't running correctly. i suspect i'll have none when thats sorted, will confirm when i do. pahtvr6's mate sorted me out..i got all three at once. think someone on this forum had the o.e. rear ones destroyed by using just a front vibra mount.
  15. ok, maybe i need to double check then...i thought ob1 maf's were a mesh of some kind.
  16. thats not ture...obd1 and obd2 are completely different. think i saw yours on ebay, and it was an obd2.
  17. shouldn't leak any water...most likely is leaking. common places (as mentioned) are thermostat housing, tube that goes across front of engine, and aux water pump (behind coilpack). have a look for anything obvious, if not get a coolant pressure test done, this will show where its leaking.
  18. i don't think the wrong oil would cause a misfire! unless its diesel oil or something.
  19. i've got vibratech mounts all round and they've made a huge difference. i'd tried replacing the front one with a new o.e. mount first and it did bugger all. the difference the vibra's made was awesome...i highly recommend them. i have a competition front mount by the way.
  20. i'm sure markgolf will confirm, but the 'rado and golf use the same crossmember and subframe.
  21. eh! the top bearing only costs £25
  22. i'm pretty sure it is. [ Edited Tue Oct 12 2004, 04:38PM ]
  23. ok, i'd get worried...do not use the car until it is sorted. could be the bolt holding the wheel on, you have to disconnect the battery (for about an hour to be safe), then undo the two allen key bolts on the back of the wheel (these are supposed to be replaced with new ones), then the airbag section will lift off (BE GENTLE WITH IT AND KEEP IT IN THE UPRIGHT POSITION), then you'll be able to see the bolt. should be tightened to 50nm. theres also some bolts where the column meets the rack, maybe down in the footwell. probably worth seeing if the column is moving there before doing the anything
  24. sounds like you'll have got away with it.
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