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legvw

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Everything posted by legvw

  1. legvw
    As promised, a few pics of my haldex set-up, the first is of the side of the haldex control unit, and the bolt i've welded on the stepper motor And the switch i'm using (the 1 on the right) to switch the haldex pump on/off, which will activate a relay in the boot that switches the pump on/off
  2. legvw
    I got mine from the states, but that was when the exchange rate was begging to be taken advantage of!!! Mine are 83mm Woosner VR6 turbo jobies, light, not cast and have a thermal coating around them, under the rings. Well worth the money i thought
  3. legvw
    The pump on the haldex is simply going to be ignition activated, with an additional dash switch so it can be switched off for motorways etc. Then all i've done is weld a bolt on the end of the stepper motor to control the flow of oil in the haldex diff. I don't know how well this will actually work yet, or if its oil tight yet, but it was easy and cheap enough! If it doesn't work, then i'l go to plan b!! I'l post a few pics up tonight mate
  4. legvw
    I think all of the 'modern' v6 blocks, 4moiton, r32, are the same, they're all from the same generation. The vr6 block is different as the angle of the v is wider, the pistons aren't flat like they are on the modern blocks. But i think you can put a r32 head on a 4motion 24v headed) block.
  5. legvw
    You might need to do a wheel bearing, as the part thats sheared off is meant to hold the bearing together.
  6. legvw
    Thanks for the support peeps! Been a busy boy today. Painted underneath and inside the old boot space, re-fitted the petrol tank and fitted the tank breather, fitted the battery tray, ran all the wires for both fuel pumps/haldex, the switch for the haldex pump and 'p'-clipped battery cables. Just got to order 3 relays, 3 relay holders and wire it all in through a mini fuse box which i'l put next to the fuel tank. Thats about it for now, waiting on my suspension to turn up, which should be soon. God this is killing me waiting to drive this machine!!
  7. legvw
    Use the 4 bolt holes in the back of the engine, where the rear left engine mount mounts to the block
  8. legvw
    Big head? He's a good bloke mate, but yeah i'd definately go head to head with him, maybe 1 day! Firstly, gotta finish building the beast :-)
  9. legvw
    Cheers, are you thinking of doing something similar? Should stiffen the rear end right up! Have you descided if your going to do yours yourself yet??
  10. legvw
    I wish' date='i can't find the time atm to rush!! Or the money :-( But i've found a couple of hours this week in the evening to start my rear brace, (as mentioned earlier in this thread) which will support the rear cross member that supports the rear subframe, and also to act as a rear strut brace for the rear suspension from this [img']http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt270/legvw/1025.jpg to this Should be able to get it finished and painted tomorrow
  11. legvw
    I think its fused along with the fan, on the fan relay 'block' in the engine bay of a vr.
  12. legvw
    Mate, it makes me wanna book a flight now! My mum, and both my sisters live out in n.z and i haven't been over for ages, and the pics jus make me wanna go.... its definately something else over there! :-) Did you go up the sky tower in auckland??
  13. legvw
    Try un-plugging the 4 pin plug on the coil pack, then the coil won't get a signal and won't fire. But take the plugs out too, engine will turn over easier and you won't flood it.
  14. legvw
    Slowly! Works really busy, just had 2 weddings to go to so the bank balance is a bit low, and got a dead line of october to move my car from where it is! :-( People are so inconsiderate!!!! If you put your car up on 4 axle stands, all the same make and right at the top you shouldn't twist the chassis, they're only supports for the floor that come off the rear legs. So instead of getting a body shop to do it, could buy alot of other bits for your project for £1000.... ;-)
  15. legvw
    I was trying to keep the lengths the same but i also wanted to fit the air filter i've got onto the end of my turbo, so i tryed to 'kick' the turbo to the right of the engine. Since you've said this, it has got me thinking cause were my turbo would be is were the coolant line is coming out of the head!!!! :@ So back to square 1...
  16. legvw
    Looking good mate, nice progress! Why not use the lighter prop, imo i would make the car that bit lighter, and you'd get a better reaction time-think of the same princable as a lightened crank and flywheel? I think the mk4 prop is the same as the mk3 prop, hollow. Have you built up the courage to take a grinder to your boot floor yet??? ;-) Been developing a diff controller, i'l keep you updated mate :-)
  17. legvw
    I'm using 1 of these welders http://www.fronius.com/cps/rde/xchg/SID-594D6A2F-6251719B/fronius_international/hs.xsl/79_4677_ENG_HTML.htm Maybe have a look on the bay for a second-hand welder, then sort your gas out. Make sure the gas is pure argon.
  18. legvw
    The wires from the coil pack plug go to the ecu mate, and i wouldn't have thought your alarm/immob would be plumbed in there. Have you traced all of the wires from the plugs on the engine to the connector on the right of the block? Just do a 'beep' test, i had 1 broken when i striped my engine last year, at the connector end too.
  19. legvw
    Have you checked your oil? Level, and when was the last time it had a service? There is a water/oil cooler infront of the engine that transfers heat between the 2, if your oil is old it may be getting hotter, and transfering the extra heat to your water.
  20. legvw
    Cheers for the support, and the good words! Its the biggest project i've ever undertaken, the longest, and the most expensive! But its given me the most grief!! So if this thread helps a few people out to go diy, then why not? Having a bash your self at stuff like this is good brain fuel! Anyways, a little update from sunday. Made a start on making my exhaust manifold, using the original vw headers. First i cut the old flanges off of the original downpipe, and machined them out to fit the 2" o.d stianless u-bends i bought. I set my spare head up on a block, and started to cut, tack, cut
  21. legvw
    If your aiming at 500 id seriously think about using pistons rather than a spacer plate!!! I'm with craggsy, atleast pistons, and i'd do rods too personally. Make it bomb proof mate, can't go wrong then!
  22. legvw
    Owned a few.. Mini metro Peugeot 205 1.6 GTI Mini 30 Limited Edition Mk1 Golf 1.3 Peugeot 306 1.9TD (wrote off) Corsa TD Mk4 Escort 1.4 (scraped) Peugeot 205 1.6 GTI Hyundi Pony Renault 19 1.8 16v Peugeot 205 1.6 GTI (bought monday, rolled friday!) Renault Clio 1.8 16v Escort RS Turbo Peugeot 205 1l VW Mk3 Golf VR6 Yes i do like my french cars, and don't ask about the 'pony' !
  23. legvw
    That is unlucky, but luckly no 1 was hurt, and you didn't prang into a car that was actually worth something!!!!! Hope your dubbing again soon
  24. legvw
    Actually found some time this evening to finish my inlet manifold! Modified the fuel rail Then drilled an tapped all the holes for the air lines and manifold air temp sender All assembled and ready to go on!
  25. legvw
    Could be engine mounts. Pop ya bonnet, with the car runing, get someone to look at your engine while you lift up clutch in 1st gear-just rock on an off the biting point to see if theres alot of movement from the engine. Probably be the front 1 if its gone, i'd go with a vibratectics if it needs replacing mate
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