Jump to content

legvw

Members
  • Content Count

    2,742
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by legvw

  1. Well back to the progress of today. I made my sri. This is the mk2 version! Hope you like!!
  2. Swwet rado mate, loving the rims, plates, and bra! Hows the interior?
  3. Yes to r32 hub into vr bearing and carrier, yes to r32 brakes with 6mm spacer. No to the driveshafts, the inner spline on the cv's is larger on r32's, along with the driveshaft. If you wanted to run r32/4motion inner cv's(110mm cv) and vr outer cv's for vr hubs, you would have to have a custom shaft made with a larger spline 1 end, and the smaller vr spline the other end of the shaft. I'l try posting some pics of the difference up tomorrow.
  4. Getting the 6 branch might not be too much trouble, i've got to get a 3" pipe between my bulkhead and prop! I think i'm going to have to modify the bulkhead/tunnel to make it fit. As for the adjustment on the rear, i'm still a bit unsure. If it causes problems when driving then i'l do it then. I'm going to see what happens mate
  5. Hoping to have it ready for the new year(its a more realistic time than i first thought!!). And i've given up, and got back on with it loads of times mate! Just think of what its gunna be like when its done, and that usually enough encouragement!!! Manifold will be doing this month hopefully, 3" all the way for the exhaust, all custom made by me. Update on the evenings progress. This relates back to what i was saying to john555 about the hubs. The hub on the left is vr6, and R32 on the right. You can see a 3mm difference in length. But not o/a height, in the picture above. So i made a 3mm
  6. Unless you want to get custom driveshafts made! The R32 c.v's have larger inner splines than the vr6 c.v's, so you can't mix n match - and the R32 c.v's use a large socket headed cap screw to do up the hub/bearing, unlike the vr6 which uses a nut.
  7. Have you had a look at the gearbox end of the cables and selector? And the gear chager its self, might some slack in it.
  8. hey mate iv just been looking through your build thread and noticed you have a spring linking your anti roll bar and subframe do you know what its for just im doing the same conversion but mine doesnt have any of this im not sure if its missing or just its never been there That is the standard brake bias valve, or load sensing valve thats used to control the rear brakes. I ditched mine as the mounting for it is cut out to fit the haldex diff in. I now use a Wilwood adjustable brake bias valve to control the rear brakes. So don't worry, its nothing worth having anyway!!! If you get stuck wit
  9. Not alot tbh, been working hard, and enjoying the sun too much!!! I get paid next week so hopefully start getting some bits an bobs in to make both my manifolds.
  10. I think you can still us vr cooling aswel as engine mounts. Not sure bout the ecu problem though, or if a vr tb will bolt up to r32 manifold.
  11. Black centers, polished outer lip? IMO would look mint on dusky mauve
  12. Mark maybe right, it might need gassing first, not 100% though, makes sense
  13. Yeah sorry, forgot bout those bolts!! Any time you want, usually finish work between 5 n 6, i'l pm you my mobli
  14. If you drain all the oil out, undo all of the M6 bolts around the outside of the sump, it should drop off-it might need gentile persuasion (rubber mallet). I live in Droxford mate, north of Wickham/Fareham, up A32
  15. Why not weld the crack up? If you can take it off, i can weld it for you if you want??? I'm not too far from pompey
  16. Wicked! You can't beat a vr6 powered mk1 golf! She's gunna be a ripper And yeah, HGF???
  17. Hello, welcome to the site fella! I don't think a thatcham rated alarm is mega money, there is so many out there, prob looking at £300 fitted? But well worth it!
  18. Your 1st to second gear syncro will be affectted, it happened in my van, always jumping out of 1st, rearly wanted to go in 2nd, took box off and striped gearbox and found syncro mesh was broken in 3 places! Your gears will be fine (hopefully!)
  19. Sounds like your 1st/2nd syncro mesh is gone mate
  20. True, but if the gasket has gone between oil and water you would see that in the oil going milky. You can do a combustion test to see if the combustion chamber has coolant leaking in. Go with calico, get them to test it, could save you a few beers!!
  21. Hey, nice to chat to someone from new zealand (my family live out there). Head gasket change is a bit of a job to do, your head could possibly need a skim, which would require you head to be stripped, yes timing chains will need removing off of cam sprockets to get the head off. The price for a head gasket set over here was about £70 when i bought mine. Your water by-pass pipe (crack pipe) is the main feed from your water pump to thermostat housing, so if that 'blew' then your engine wouldn't stand much chance of cooling itself! Good luck mate!
  22. I think so. A vento is just a golf with a bigger boot right? So the basic chassis should be the same, so should the exhaust front and middle sections.
  23. canyon (think thats how you spell it!)
×
×
  • Create New...