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spindat45

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Everything posted by spindat45

  1. Very good price for that oil. Where from? Two of those and you'll have plenty for top ups. As long as it's the semi synthetic 10w40 it will be fine. The grade of the oil is the same as Synta so in all fairness should be much the same. It's only the additives that manufacturers add which increase the life of the oil but the viscosity, upper and lower temps of the oil when new are the same. The standard of oil, similar to the British Standard kite mark will also be the same regardless of the make. You'll find this on the side of each bottle. I think it's SJ or SK at the moment. Kevin
  2. I'd say 205's because they're easier to get hold of and I think the handling may be marginally better than 195's
  3. You should be ok with the 205/40/17's at that height and the wheel offset should be fine. I'm almost cetain it would be the same as the TT Comps which only rubbed slightly on mine when I had a lot of weight in the back. You could go with the 195's for a slightly stretched look to avoid that. Try http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Topgearshop_17-Tyres-Toyo-Yokohama_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ9QQftidZ2QQpZ3QQtZkm. Very good prices especially on Toyo PX4's and next day delivery but probably not for the next couple of days. I've ordered from them a couple of times via their Ebay shop.
  4. Wheel bearings usually make a humming or rumbling noise which gets faster as you increase your speed. CV joints tend to make a loud clicking sound when turning, usually on full lock or there abouts. If you hear the clicking turning left, it's usually the right o/s joint, and if you hear it turning right, it's usually the left n/s joint. Worn wishbone bushes can .cause a knocking in the way you describe under your feet. Check them for wear as well as tthe rack rod ends (ball joints), steering rack for play and the other bits the guys have mentioned. Can take a while to pinpoint as there are
  5. I spoke to her at about 10am whilst stuck on the motorway and they'd left Croydon at 6am for an 11 am flight. They got there after 3pm
  6. I gave myself the day off. Two of my cousins were due to fly to Barbados today. A 40 minute drive from Croydon to Gatwick took, 9 hours! Needless to say they missed their flight and it's not looking good as subsequent flights are now fully booked. Gutted for them
  7. You beat me to it Moochalargo. When approaching a bend, go slowly in and quickly out so get the car to the lowest speed before you turn in then feed the power in gradually as you come out the other side. Works for me and it's what i teach my students. Not that I take them on the track or drag strip. Kevin
  8. Result! Let us know how it handles once fitted. I think copper grease is the best thing to use on the threads to stop them seizing up and to make adjustment easier. Don't quote me on that though. Kevin
  9. Thats's not great at all. I usually pay monthly which costs abit more but if I did cancel early and this was their policy, I wouldn't be out of pocket. i'll definately be checking with my new company before I renew
  10. Slowly! Moving off in second is usually safest. Stay in as high a gear as possible for as long as possible so lots of second and third. Avoid braking late by lifting off the gas and changing down to use the engine to help you slow down. Most importantly, look and plan well ahead. If it looks like a wet patch on the road it's probably black ice so. I drove back from North London last night as the snow was coming down and there were some real idiots still doing 50+ on the north circular even when parts of it were closed due to accidents. Scary
  11. Looking good mate. What coilies are they and how much did they set you back?
  12. Another thumbs up for the TT/S3 312mm upgrade. I've just got mine but haven't fitted them as yet. Just need to get the bolts and the spacers and I'm good to go. Apparenty the high tensile 40mm M12 bolts have an M10 fine thread.
  13. What reason did they give for not refunding? I thought they would divide your annual premium by 12, charge a cancellation fee and rufund the rest? Im about to renew mine so this might be a deciding factor
  14. It sounds like the build up of carbon that's freed itself. Give it a good shake until it stops coming out then fit it and see. When you start it for the first time it will probaly chuck out all of the loose bits and be fine. If it sounds like something heavy moving about inside then it could be the baffle which has come away but that's a lot less likely. Kevin
  15. LOL. The huuuuge one? I made an interesting adaptation to mine. A sort of DIY cold air feed consisting of a CV Boot and and some air intake pipe. Worked a treat but I did have to clean the filter regularly by blowing it with an air line. it seemed to attract a lot of flies and other small insects
  16. Even though I have't had a BMC, I'd recommend the Ram Air. Cheaper and more smiles per mile. I had a small Ram Air on mine before I charged it and I loved the sound. The country lanes will take on a different meaning as will any tunnels you might happen to come acros. The odd villager might frown but such is life. The downside of them is that they suffer from heat soak from the enigine in the summer and when the engine is particuarly hot and as a result it may feel a bit sluggish in traffic. You can get heat shields for them to reduce the heat soak though. It will sound great and you'll fi
  17. It was a Parker's guide. It has changed slightly. Up to 2004, a V6 4 Motion will cost £245 to tax next year. If you've got an '05 R32 Nearly £200 pounds difference from one day of registration to the next but it's the same car :S Here's the link http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/road-tax/?deriv=33016
  18. There was a thread about this on here sometime last year. It may have changed since but as far as I was aware, 4mo or R32 registered after March 1st 2001 would have to pay £400 tax from next year. Like Craggsy I may also be talking cods but thats how I remember reading it. There was a link on here to a site that you could put your car details into and it would tell you what you'd pay this year and next.
  19. I've seen 36.7 (according to the MFA) at a constant 50mph in 5th gear on the North Circular. I think it crept up to 37.0 for a few seconds when i lifted off slightly but it sat at 36 for quite a while. Might be slightly out due to the charger being fitted but I don't think so
  20. From memory we used to use LM grease made by Castrol whenever we changed wheel bearings but that was many moons ago. Halfrauds or GSF will sell wheel bearing grease mate.
  21. Hi Abi. Any signs of oil in the water or water in the oil when cold? Before going down the head gasket route I'd make sure that the fans are cutting in and out once the engine is at running temperature. It will take a while but should they should kick in by the time your oil temp reaches 80 degrees and water temp is half way. If they are then try changing the thermostat and housing. It may be stuck shut, preventing the coolant from circulating. Next thing would be water pump but less likely as you would probably have noticed an increase in coolant temp over a longer period of time. I rece
  22. More likely to be 288 on an N reg. I believe '95 was the changeover year so I would either take a wheel off and measure them to be sure or call VW for a price enquiry and give them your reg or chasis number. This should confirm what size is fitted to your car.
  23. I had a look and the thermostat housing appears to be cracked or distorted and leaking. I could see where the antifreeze had leaked onto the power steering pipes underneath. No loss of power, no overheating, no oil in the coolant or vice versa and no white smoke so I can't fathom how a garage suggested changing the head gasket without doing any proper investigation or checks. Once Sparkz has changed the housing we'll know for sure but its not the head gasket causing the coolant loss imho. Engine has only covered a genuine 37,000 miles btw
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