Philly-R6

Hi Wiggy and welcome!
You would probably have to do just as much work as any other engine transplant as not a lot is compatible with where you are starting from.
 
The Mk2 / Mk3 and Corrado have the "CE2" fusebox under the dash by your feet, but the Mk4 and Mk5 are different wiring systems, so there is a bit of work adapting the engine wiring and other bits to match the car you have (unless you convert the whole car to Mk4/5 wiring?).
 
The ECU and engine electronics are a lot different from that in your car, as the systems are developed over time. For example; the R32 engine wants 4 Lambda sensors and the VR6 engine requires one. Then the ECU needs the immobiliser setup (or deleted).
 
You may be best looking for a complete donor car - if you have the space to store it.
 
Its all do-able but a fair bit of work.
 
Good luck with whatever you decide - just don't underestimate the effort, money and time these things demand.
 
Have fun!

Awesome work!

Hi,
This is a photo from my 1995 VR6 before I touched it - hope it helps.
 

It does sound like one of your temperature sensors is "iffy".
 
There is a comprehensive post regarding the cooling system over on the-corrado.net:
https://the-corrado.net/topic/38215-the-definitive-vr6-cooling-guide/
 
The post explains what the various sensors do and how to identify them (it makes reference to early and late VRs - yours would be late).

So corrado vr6 was turning over but wouldn't start so I changed the fuel filter and then changed the crack shaft sensor still wouldn't start I was also having problems with the abs light staying on and brakes not pumping correctly
So after more online searching I heard mention of the ignition switch and as it happens I had bought one ages before so decided to fit.
It took me a good 2 hours as for most part I didn't realise you can actually see the screw holding switch in place if you look down the LHS of steering column when covers are removed, so fitted new switch and the dash lit up like a Christmas tree with lights I've never seen Before, and car started on first turn of the key.
And the all important ABS light went out as it should even the brake pedal feels a lot firmer.
HAPPY DAYS....

Hi Lee,   021 905 377
knock sensor with wiring harness
500MM
white
Model data: ABV   Item 8 here:
http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1995/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/906/subcategory/204000/part_id/3704672/lang/e#sec_9   Heritage have them listed at £26.40 each
https://www.vwheritage.com/021905377-knock-sensor-for-vr6-vw-spare

Part number '068198171' is a repair kit:
http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1995/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/103/subcategory/2030/part_id/3685688/lang/e#sec_17
 
VW Heritage list the Repair kit at £40:
https://www.vwheritage.com/051198011a-crankcase-gasket-set-16v-most-9a-vw-spare
 
You could try your local dealer - you may be surprised/horrified at the price - but still worth an ask?

Also, have a rummage here:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_V9-6xfgGlINzhhM2IyNmItOWRhZS00MzBkLTk2MTEtNGIyZDFmMDg0NWM2
Golf 3 documents start g3, Golf 4 start g4...
 
Have fun!

It sounds like it isn't the cluster!
 
What do you mean be "everything dies" the minute you start?
Does the engine run normally? Is it just the display that doesn't work when the engine is running?
 
The lights and illumination are separate to the engine instrumentation.
 
If you search t'internet for a PDF named g3vr6ecu95on.pdf, you should find a 10 page PDF describing the OBD2 engine wiring for the Golf3/Vento.
The cluster is depicted on the last two pages.
You could mark up the lamps that are working on the diagram and trace the wires to find something common to all when the engine is running.
 
There is a lot of information to absorb, so take your time, understand what the diagram is illustrating and be methodical.
 
Don't forget we are supposed to enjoy tinkering with these beasts!!

Shaun,
It could be you need to reset the gear selection mechanism?
Try this:
I've never done it...
 
 
Good luck!

You can use oem epc.
Find your car: try Golf/Variant/4Motion, then select the year.
 
You are then presented with the areas in the parts catalogue: Try Body.
http://www.oemepc.com/vw/parts_lst/markt/RDW/modell/GOLF/year/2002/hg/8/catalog/vw/drive_standart/266/lang/e
Scroll down (keep going!) and find "door trim".
Then have a rummage around until you find what you are after!
 
Switches are probably under the Electrics section...

You can use oem epc.
Find your car: try Golf/Variant/4Motion, then select the year.
 
You are then presented with the areas in the parts catalogue: Try Body.
http://www.oemepc.com/vw/parts_lst/markt/RDW/modell/GOLF/year/2002/hg/8/catalog/vw/drive_standart/266/lang/e
Scroll down (keep going!) and find "door trim".
Then have a rummage around until you find what you are after!
 
Switches are probably under the Electrics section...

This is the only [good] photo of a MK3 Golf fuse box.
For information, all connections, relays a fuses are listed her:
http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

Please be at the club stand for 9am chaps. See you then

I will commit to the Tatton Park event.
I need a non-movable target to keep me focused!

Mk3 Bentley - Tightening torques (40 Front Suspension and Drive Axles)

Subframe
Bolt (front)  M12x1.5x65 - 70Nm plus 1/4 turn
Bolt (middle) M12x1.5x78 - 70Nm plus 1/4 turn
Bolt (rear) 65Nm
 
Wishbones
Bolt (front)  M12x1.5x82 - 50Nm plus 1/4 turn
 
Ball Joint
# to wheel bearing housing
    base suspension 50Nm
    plus suspension 45Nm
# to control arm - 35Nm
 
I can't find the details for the front subframe.

I will commit to the Tatton Park event.
I need a non-movable target to keep me focused!

Hi James,
Sorry to see your VR6 in such a sorry state.
 
Perhaps you could post your list (including your photos?) in the Wanted forum.
Have a look at what other members are asking for. Then, create your own thread asking if other members have the parts surplus to requirements...
 
Good luck sourcing your parts!
 

Hello RaddoRene,
I urge you to peruse the Engine Tuning forum - there are plenty of 'stickied' threads for you to feast your eyes on.
Don't underestimate the size of the job - or the cost!
 
For some inspiration/motivation, BradVR6 turbocharged his C' a few years back:
https://www.vr6oc.com/forum/forums/topic/36392-brads-corrado-vr-next-on-the-listturbo-conversion-d/?do=findComment&comment=384316/

What are the symptoms you are experiencing?
What lead you to change the cam Position Sensor?
Do you have an error code from VagCom?

I've not actually done a swap to OBD2, so can't really comment if it is beneficial.
Summarising other peoples reports, the headline points are:
# the faster ECU provides finer tuning
# superior idle (no separate idle valve)
You don't get more power or torque - its just smoother.
 
I only mentioned the 95on ECU setup as it is the same amount of work updating the harnesses, whichever ECU you decide to go for.
 
All VW ECU's are listed here:
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Catalogues/VW-Audi_ECU_ModelsPartNumbers.pdf
Your original 'AF ECU preceded the 'BK ECU, so most sensors should be similar (both seem to be Motronic 2.9).
If you still have access to the donor car, compare the part numbers of the air mass sensor, lambda sensor, etc.

It sounds like the sensor is ok - it could be wiring?
Some general info here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16502/P0118/000280
 

If you are near South Manchester, call Barry at MS & J Motors in Styal - 0161 436 1967.
He rebuilt a gearbox for my brother's Delta a few years ago.

Can you confirm you cranked the engine (on the key) with the spark plug base against the engine - and no spark was observed.
 
The distributor has a 3-pin connector:
pin 1 - 0v
pin 2 - timing signal from the ECU
pin 3 - 12v
 
The hall sender is also a 3-pin connector:
pin 1 - 0v
pin 2 - signal to ECU
pin 3 - 12v
 
Check the power is present across pins 1 and 3.
The distributor is powered by the ignition (terminal 15) and the hall sender is powered through Relay 3 - the ECU power supply relay - sharing power with the injectors.
You will need an oscilloscope to see the output of the hall sender.
I suppose you could remove the sensor from the engine, put 12v across pins 1 and 3 and measure the output across pins 1 and 2 as you waft a screwdriver across the end of the sensor. It will probably be a small voltage, but may be detectable?
 
Are there any clues/faults in the ECU which could guide you?
 
 
When I rebuilt my engine, I had fuel and a spark - just not at the same time (the bottom end was 180 degrees out).
So, check everything as you go along. And if there is still doubt, prove your assumptions are still correct!!
 
Report back with how you get on.

Can you confirm you cranked the engine (on the key) with the spark plug base against the engine - and no spark was observed.
 
The distributor has a 3-pin connector:
pin 1 - 0v
pin 2 - timing signal from the ECU
pin 3 - 12v
 
The hall sender is also a 3-pin connector:
pin 1 - 0v
pin 2 - signal to ECU
pin 3 - 12v
 
Check the power is present across pins 1 and 3.
The distributor is powered by the ignition (terminal 15) and the hall sender is powered through Relay 3 - the ECU power supply relay - sharing power with the injectors.
You will need an oscilloscope to see the output of the hall sender.
I suppose you could remove the sensor from the engine, put 12v across pins 1 and 3 and measure the output across pins 1 and 2 as you waft a screwdriver across the end of the sensor. It will probably be a small voltage, but may be detectable?
 
Are there any clues/faults in the ECU which could guide you?
 
 
When I rebuilt my engine, I had fuel and a spark - just not at the same time (the bottom end was 180 degrees out).
So, check everything as you go along. And if there is still doubt, prove your assumptions are still correct!!
 
Report back with how you get on.