Jump to content

Philly-R6

Members
  • Content Count

    91
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Philly-R6 last won the day on December 13 2020

Philly-R6 had the most liked content!

About Philly-R6

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Manchester

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi, This is a photo from my 1995 VR6 before I touched it - hope it helps.
  2. Philly-R6

    BDB MK2 Golf CE1

    Hi, The two relevant wiring systems are detailed here: http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/systems.html I couldn't see many threads detailing the Mk2 here, but I did find this thread which may be of interest: https://mk2vr6.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=3335 Good luck and have fun!
  3. I have been using VCDS on the ABS and engine controllers, and it works well for me - very reliable.
  4. I would say the ABS sensors are fine - unless you are getting specific errors? I would have gone the same route as you (service the pump) given those errors. But as the pump is known to be good (by Bba-reman), put that in the car. I found an old photo of the ABS pump showing the connectors: Pump, Ballast Resistor and Actuator Electricals underneath. The harness goes through the bulkhead to the right of the pump. At risk of offending you - you are clearing the errors and they subsequently return?
  5. Good to know your pump is ok, though! http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00532 Your first code could be due to dirty contacts within the connectors. The ABS control module is located behind the plastic trim in the passenger footwell, (between the door and bulkhead). Three plastic nuts hold it to the car body, and the connector has a metal bar that draws the connector in. Disconnect that plug from the controller and re-connect it and see if the errors re-appear. Also check the contacts are free from dirt or corrosion. There is also a connector o
  6. Hi, There are a few online part catalogues which you can use to identify the part you mean (I'm not too familiar with the Mk4). Here is the page illustrating the rear bumper on a Mk4 Golf 4Motion: http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/GOLF/year/2002/drive_standart/684/hg_ug/807/subcategory/807050/part_id/3684620/lang/e Then once you know what the manufacturer calls it, you could: # look on ebay # try any scrap yards local to you # or even write a post under Wanted on this forum! Have fun
  7. Hi, I stumbled across this link - it may shed some light for you? http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/C5/4.2/BentleyPublishers.com_Audi_A6_C5_4.2L_Secondary_Air_Injection_Maintenance.pdf and a layout picture on Vortex for the AFP engine: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4270565-mk4-sai-vac-line-diagram-or-picture&p=56023102&viewfull=1#post56023102 Have fun!
  8. According to Haynes: If they are clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). If the tip and insulator are covered with hard black deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. If the plug is black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. But if the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it i
  9. I'm not familiar with the Mk4. Here is a snippet for BUB engine code (pre 06):
  10. This is a snippet from the Golf Mk3 VR6 (95 on) wiring diagram: What car are you referencing?
  11. Is the fan spinning gently (stage 1), or fast (stage 2)? Did you follow the fan test on the linked post: 1. Take the plug off the rad sender 2. Take the plug off the black temp sender in the stat housing. 3. Switch ignition on. In the rad sensor plug - red wire is stage 1, thin red/black is stage 2. The other wire is the common connection. Bridge each of the two wires in turn across the common wire and see if both speeds come on. If they do, good. 4. Bridge the black plug with a paper clip or something, does stage 3 come on? Sounds uber loud! Did your fans behave as expect
  12. VAG COM (now called VCDS) won't help here - other than seeing what the ECU thinks the coolant temperature is. The radiator/fan system is simple - if one of the sensors thinks the coolant is too hot, turn the fan on. Your answer is in that post: you just have to follow the instructions on how to check each sensor in turn.
  13. It does sound like one of your temperature sensors is "iffy". There is a comprehensive post regarding the cooling system over on the-corrado.net: https://the-corrado.net/topic/38215-the-definitive-vr6-cooling-guide/ The post explains what the various sensors do and how to identify them (it makes reference to early and late VRs - yours would be late).
  14. I'm not familiar with the Mk4. You mention an EPC light? What is that? I would read any error codes and see if that suggests something. In fact, does EPC mean Electronic Pedal Control - Something on the brake pedal? https://uk-mkivs.net/topic/79835-epc-light/ ^ This thread indicates it could be the "switch" on the brake pedal or the car battery.
  15. Hi Fleety, Any errors reported in the ECU? Your problem can only be fuel or spark (I guess air is fine?!). To check for fuel: Crank the engine (and if it doesn't start...) Take spark plugs out and see if they smell of fuel. If they do you must have fuel getting to the cylinder(s). If you don't, you need to investigate why. To check for spark: Remove a spark plug and ground the outside and re-connect the HT lead. Crank the engine and see if you can see a spark across the contacts. To fine tune the actual p
×
×
  • Create New...