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Philly-R6

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Philly-R6 last won the day on August 13

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About Philly-R6

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  1. You have an interesting problem there. The first three codes hint at wiring problems, as you've done the mechanical timing. I can't find your last code. 18728/P2296/008854 - Ross-Tech Wiki Fuel pressure regulator and wiring/connector. 16727/P0343/000835 - Ross-Tech Wiki Camshaft position sensor and wiring/connector. P0366 - Ross-Tech Wiki Other camshaft position sensor and wiring/connector. Maybe swap over the camshaft sensors, clear the codes and see if the error follows the sensor? P0366 mentions something about the Camshaft adjusters binding - cou
  2. Hi Wiggy and welcome! You would probably have to do just as much work as any other engine transplant as not a lot is compatible with where you are starting from. The Mk2 / Mk3 and Corrado have the "CE2" fusebox under the dash by your feet, but the Mk4 and Mk5 are different wiring systems, so there is a bit of work adapting the engine wiring and other bits to match the car you have (unless you convert the whole car to Mk4/5 wiring?). The ECU and engine electronics are a lot different from that in your car, as the systems are developed over time. For example; the R32
  3. Welcome along R32! Tinkering with motors is a top hobby, with many skills you can transfer to elsewhere in life. There is plenty of ECU information on this site, so get using the Search function. Take it easy Phil
  4. Hi Martin, Do you know which spark plug isn't working? You could disconnect each plug in turn from the coil pack and the one that makes no difference is the one to investigate. The problem could be: - one of the spark plugs - maybe it has a cracked body or the gap not set correctly? - an iffy lead (unlikely) - an iffy contact between the plug and lead, or lead and coilpack (more likely - it worked until normal vibration made the connection loose?). - the coilpack (unlikely) - the spark plugs work in pairs You could remove each spark plug in
  5. The brake light is one circuit: Fuse20 -> Brake pedal switch -> Left brake bulb -> Right brake bulb -> common ground in hatch -> common ground in boot So check your brake bulb or the connection with the bulb holder? Does your brake light flicker full brightness (on / off), or does it dim - like a bad earth? Is it both brake lights? Could be the brake pedal switch? The ABS does know when the brake pedal is pressed or not, so could be related? Also, the list of systems affected does make me think a bad earth is causing voltage drops -
  6. I bought a set of Samco hoses (a while back). The only dealer who actually returned a phone call was Merlin Motorsport. Give them a call (with your chassis number) and they should supply you a single Samco hose? Worth a call to them. Also, just looked on ebay and there is a new set of Samco hoses for under £90! You have to read the description carefully, as it sounds too good a deal... Silicone Coolant Hose Kit For VW Golf MK3 VR6 2.8 V6 1994-1998 Black | eBay Good luck!
  7. Excellent result! Ensure the locking bar (running along the middle of the connectors on the back of the fuse box) is slid all the way over, so it is flush with the side.👍
  8. The dealer-fit scorpion alarm cuts three circuits - the starter, the coil and fuel pump. Intermittent problems are difficult to fix as you don't know if you are measuring the real value or the intermittent... You need to determine if the coil or fuel is the problem (or both!). The fuel pump could be immobilised through the signal from the ECU (to stop the relay energising) OR the wire from the output of the relay to the fuel pump. You could put a 12v LED across the fuel pump - so you can see if there is 12V across it. Beware that the fuel pump is controll
  9. The crackly radio could be simply the speakers distorting as they break down with age. They may look fine, but the outer soft bit that mounts the cone to the frame decays so the sound is not correctly produced (or no sound at all!). => Inspect your speakers before going much further with this issue. If you have a spare speaker, connect it and see if the sound improves? The brake system has two indicators on the dash: Brake System Brake pad wear indicator (this is an option) The brake system light comes on with the handbrake OR if the brake
  10. Keep on top the little jobs and you should have no worries. Have a good rummage in the site - most things have been fixed and written about on here. Get to understand the search function! Take it easy
  11. Welcome Andrew! Your VR6 looks in good condition. Have you any plans for the car, or are you just going to bimble around in it? Phil
  12. Ooh, that's in interesting error code! 17748/P1340/004928 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) That code does point to timing chain - as you have replaced the sensors. The chains could have stretched if they are due - check the mechanical timing after cleaning your throttle body, before spending more money?
  13. Hi Ben, What is the actual error code for the camshaft sensor? You can look it up on the Ross Tech wiki for further inspiration: 00515 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) You could also have an air leak (at some point after the MAF sensor). Maybe way too much air for the fuel? Also, could the throttle body be clogged with dirt? I don't know how those throttle bodies handle idling. Phil
  14. You are correct - it is the blue wire on the yellow sender. The Black sender is to tell the ECU the temperature. These sensors vary their resistance according to temperature - when cold there will be a big resistance, when hot there will be a low resistance. Guage and Instrument Testing with Special Tool VW 1301 (bentleypublishers.com) To prove the gauge works, short pins 2 and 3 on the yellow connector with a paper clip (or similar) and see if the gauge indicates full hot. Once the gauge works, check the resistance across pins 2 and 3 of the yellow sen
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