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Philly-R6

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Philly-R6 last won the day on December 13 2020

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About Philly-R6

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  1. Ooh, that's in interesting error code! 17748/P1340/004928 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) That code does point to timing chain - as you have replaced the sensors. The chains could have stretched if they are due - check the mechanical timing after cleaning your throttle body, before spending more money?
  2. Hi Ben, What is the actual error code for the camshaft sensor? You can look it up on the Ross Tech wiki for further inspiration: 00515 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com) You could also have an air leak (at some point after the MAF sensor). Maybe way too much air for the fuel? Also, could the throttle body be clogged with dirt? I don't know how those throttle bodies handle idling. Phil
  3. You are correct - it is the blue wire on the yellow sender. The Black sender is to tell the ECU the temperature. These sensors vary their resistance according to temperature - when cold there will be a big resistance, when hot there will be a low resistance. Guage and Instrument Testing with Special Tool VW 1301 (bentleypublishers.com) To prove the gauge works, short pins 2 and 3 on the yellow connector with a paper clip (or similar) and see if the gauge indicates full hot. Once the gauge works, check the resistance across pins 2 and 3 of the yellow sen
  4. This self-study document may help you out: SSP_212.pdf (volkspage.net) Variable Intake Manifold in VR Engines Principles and Description of Operation
  5. Can't go wrong with a Karmann Ghia! I always fancied putting an Impreza Turbo engine in one, but that will remain just a dream for me.. Keep us posted!!
  6. Hi both, A quick crash course: 12v VR6 engines start around 1992 and seen in Golf 2.8l and Corrado 2.9l (and others). Toward the tail end of the Mk3 Golf (1997 ish) the engine electronics were updated to be OBD2 compliant. For the Mk4 Golf (1999 ish) the engines were 24v with better electronics and variable length inlet manifolds. See VR6 engine - Wikipedia. For modifications, a lot of people used superchargers and a few use turbos. Hope you both get ideas and let us know what you are doing... Have fun
  7. One hell of a prospect! What are you thinking of putting it in? Have you got parts, or a donor car already? I have no experience of the W12, only OBD1 VR6's. But don't underestimate the work involved to mount the engine and transmission into a different car. Be honest with yourself that there is a plan/skill/money/motivation to complete the project. Watching car shows do a custom car in one hour is in reality many months of teams of people working full time. I had a cursory look on eBay for W12's and they are big money: Engine £3500, transmission £2000, plus ancillari
  8. Hi, This is a photo from my 1995 VR6 before I touched it - hope it helps.
  9. Philly-R6

    BDB MK2 Golf CE1

    Hi, The two relevant wiring systems are detailed here: http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/systems.html I couldn't see many threads detailing the Mk2 here, but I did find this thread which may be of interest: https://mk2vr6.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=3335 Good luck and have fun!
  10. I have been using VCDS on the ABS and engine controllers, and it works well for me - very reliable.
  11. I would say the ABS sensors are fine - unless you are getting specific errors? I would have gone the same route as you (service the pump) given those errors. But as the pump is known to be good (by Bba-reman), put that in the car. I found an old photo of the ABS pump showing the connectors: Pump, Ballast Resistor and Actuator Electricals underneath. The harness goes through the bulkhead to the right of the pump. At risk of offending you - you are clearing the errors and they subsequently return?
  12. Good to know your pump is ok, though! http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00532 Your first code could be due to dirty contacts within the connectors. The ABS control module is located behind the plastic trim in the passenger footwell, (between the door and bulkhead). Three plastic nuts hold it to the car body, and the connector has a metal bar that draws the connector in. Disconnect that plug from the controller and re-connect it and see if the errors re-appear. Also check the contacts are free from dirt or corrosion. There is also a connector o
  13. Hi, There are a few online part catalogues which you can use to identify the part you mean (I'm not too familiar with the Mk4). Here is the page illustrating the rear bumper on a Mk4 Golf 4Motion: http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/GOLF/year/2002/drive_standart/684/hg_ug/807/subcategory/807050/part_id/3684620/lang/e Then once you know what the manufacturer calls it, you could: # look on ebay # try any scrap yards local to you # or even write a post under Wanted on this forum! Have fun
  14. Hi, I stumbled across this link - it may shed some light for you? http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/C5/4.2/BentleyPublishers.com_Audi_A6_C5_4.2L_Secondary_Air_Injection_Maintenance.pdf and a layout picture on Vortex for the AFP engine: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4270565-mk4-sai-vac-line-diagram-or-picture&p=56023102&viewfull=1#post56023102 Have fun!
  15. According to Haynes: If they are clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). If the tip and insulator are covered with hard black deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. If the plug is black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. But if the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it i
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