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Philly-R6 last won the day on August 13 2021

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About Philly-R6

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  1. Hi, The relay in position 6 of the fusebox (from memory) is the flasher relay: this does the on-off-on switching and should be common to left and right. The next bit is the indicator switch on the steering column. This switches the flasher relay output to the intended direction (plus the Hazard lights switching). The indicator lights on the dashboard are simple 12v bulbs and are fed directly from the wire to the relevant front indicator. As the fog light comes on with the indicator, there is probably a ground problem in your tail light cluster. The curren
  2. Hi, It sounds coincidental that the new key breaks your indicators. Are the driver's side indicators on full, or are they dim? Does another light come on at the same time - maybe a tail light? The relay in position 6 of the fusebox (from memory) is the flasher relay: this does the on-off-on switching and should be common to both sides. The next bit is the indicator switch on the steering column. This switches the flasher relay output to the intended direction (plus the Hazard lights switching). If the indicator lights are dim or other lights come o
  3. How did you get on with your checking of your connections? It sounds like it can only be your HT leads or the connection to the coil pack. Ensure the HT lead is pushed home onto each spark plug. You could remove each spark plug in turn and check each one is sparking out of the engine. You may need assistance to crank the engine or hold the spark plug against the engine (with insulated grips).
  4. From memory, there is a black metal bracket that the starter motor is bolts to (two long bolts), and the other end sits on the front engine mount. The plastic holder sits on top of this bracket and clips onto it. I'll try and get a pic this week...
  5. Welcome VGPowered, I think that plastic bracket sits on top of the front engine mount and the connectors for the Crank sensor and the front Knock sensor connect up to the loom. The harness to the alternator also clips in at the top. In the picture (Gearbox end to the bottom of the pic - radiator to the left), you can just see it under the air-con pipe. Hope that helps. Have fun!
  6. Some variations of the engine electronics have big differences. For example, some have a six-pin MAF sensor, where later systems have a 4-pin MAF. So there could be loads of incompatibilities if you are to mix and match. If you just have the engine currently, I would recommend getting all the wiring, ECU and sensors from one car. Maybe as late a car as you can - the last of the MK3's was near OBD2 compliant and would fit the engine as-is. You would then get a better/faster ECU, too. You can even get the immobiliser transponder on the key (or have it mapped off at a cost).
  7. If you are looking for new badges, you could try Heritage Parts: VW Golf Mk3 Body Parts | Heritage Parts Centre UK You will have to pay postage on top of the prices, though. Don't forget trusty eBay, as well!
  8. I've just read your wanted post - I guess you found your problem!
  9. Hmm - there are only the three mounts holding the engine/gearbox in place. The back two on the steering subframe and the front on the engine subframe. Does the front subframe look twisted? Is it really the engine hitting - or something else? If you have someone else with you, try to see if the engine moves on the clutch. Put your foot on the brake Select first Bring the clutch up (don't let the car move!). There should be a bit of movement, but not that much. Repeat with reverse gear. Report back with your findings...
  10. Philly-R6

    corrado heater

    If your fan only works on full speed, it is the fuse on the resistor that has blown. Fan speed thermal fuse repair - THE Corrado Forum Knowledge Base (the-corrado.net)
  11. To confirm: the temperature gauge works on your old cluster, but doesn't on the new cluster? I think the temperature is supplied by the Yellow 4-pin sensor on the thermostat housing (the Blue 2-pin sensor tells the ECU the temperature). If you have a multi-meter, measure the resistance across pins 2 - 3. Low values (around 30 Ohms) indicate hot and higher values (around 260 Ohms) mean cold. Guage and Instrument Testing with Special Tool VW 1301 (bentleypublishers.com) You could put a paper clip (or similar) across the pins 2 & 3 and see if the temperature
  12. Just stumbled across this English PDF from Bosch - Systematic Testing of Lambda Sensors http://www.bosch-aa.com.cn/media/parts/engine_systems__auto_parts/gasoline__engine_systems/lambdasonden_systematisch_pruefen_de.pdf
  13. The lambda sensor has a connector mounted on the rear engine mount. Unplug the lambda connector. Using a multimeter, check the following: 1. Heater Element - Check you have 12v across the heater element (the two white wires - on the car side of the connector!) - Check the resistance of the heater element; looking for a few Ohms across it (same two wires as last step - on the sensor side of the connector) 2. Sensor - check low resistance of grey wire from lambda connector to ECU - pin 42 - check low resistance of black wire from lambda connector to
  14. It sounds like the Immobiliser is your issue? If you have VCDS (Licenced version) you can interrogate the Immobiliser module and see if there are any problems. Immobilizer - Ross-Tech Wiki You can go the route of re-mapping the ECU - where the tuner will solder in a new memory chip and program it to remove the immobiliser. You may as well get it tuned at the same time? There may even be ECUs with the Immobiliser already deleted on auction sites or forums (or even this Facebook thing). There are a few Tuners wo can do this - Stealth springs to mind, b
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