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Philly-R6

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Philly-R6 last won the day on August 13 2021

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About Philly-R6

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  1. Some variations of the engine electronics have big differences. For example, some have a six-pin MAF sensor, where later systems have a 4-pin MAF. So there could be loads of incompatibilities if you are to mix and match. If you just have the engine currently, I would recommend getting all the wiring, ECU and sensors from one car. Maybe as late a car as you can - the last of the MK3's was near OBD2 compliant and would fit the engine as-is. You would then get a better/faster ECU, too. You can even get the immobiliser transponder on the key (or have it mapped off at a cost).
  2. If you are looking for new badges, you could try Heritage Parts: VW Golf Mk3 Body Parts | Heritage Parts Centre UK You will have to pay postage on top of the prices, though. Don't forget trusty eBay, as well!
  3. I've just read your wanted post - I guess you found your problem!
  4. Hmm - there are only the three mounts holding the engine/gearbox in place. The back two on the steering subframe and the front on the engine subframe. Does the front subframe look twisted? Is it really the engine hitting - or something else? If you have someone else with you, try to see if the engine moves on the clutch. Put your foot on the brake Select first Bring the clutch up (don't let the car move!). There should be a bit of movement, but not that much. Repeat with reverse gear. Report back with your findings...
  5. Philly-R6

    corrado heater

    If your fan only works on full speed, it is the fuse on the resistor that has blown. Fan speed thermal fuse repair - THE Corrado Forum Knowledge Base (the-corrado.net)
  6. To confirm: the temperature gauge works on your old cluster, but doesn't on the new cluster? I think the temperature is supplied by the Yellow 4-pin sensor on the thermostat housing (the Blue 2-pin sensor tells the ECU the temperature). If you have a multi-meter, measure the resistance across pins 2 - 3. Low values (around 30 Ohms) indicate hot and higher values (around 260 Ohms) mean cold. Guage and Instrument Testing with Special Tool VW 1301 (bentleypublishers.com) You could put a paper clip (or similar) across the pins 2 & 3 and see if the temperature
  7. Just stumbled across this English PDF from Bosch - Systematic Testing of Lambda Sensors http://www.bosch-aa.com.cn/media/parts/engine_systems__auto_parts/gasoline__engine_systems/lambdasonden_systematisch_pruefen_de.pdf
  8. The lambda sensor has a connector mounted on the rear engine mount. Unplug the lambda connector. Using a multimeter, check the following: 1. Heater Element - Check you have 12v across the heater element (the two white wires - on the car side of the connector!) - Check the resistance of the heater element; looking for a few Ohms across it (same two wires as last step - on the sensor side of the connector) 2. Sensor - check low resistance of grey wire from lambda connector to ECU - pin 42 - check low resistance of black wire from lambda connector to
  9. It sounds like the Immobiliser is your issue? If you have VCDS (Licenced version) you can interrogate the Immobiliser module and see if there are any problems. Immobilizer - Ross-Tech Wiki You can go the route of re-mapping the ECU - where the tuner will solder in a new memory chip and program it to remove the immobiliser. You may as well get it tuned at the same time? There may even be ECUs with the Immobiliser already deleted on auction sites or forums (or even this Facebook thing). There are a few Tuners wo can do this - Stealth springs to mind, b
  10. There is a document named g3vr6ecu95on.pdf which is correct for the MK3 Golf OBD2 engine. Have a rummage here on rubjonny's page: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_V9-6xfgGlINzhhM2IyNmItOWRhZS00MzBkLTk2MTEtNGIyZDFmMDg0NWM2 Golf 3 documents start g3, Golf 4 start g4... a2resource.com is useful, too...
  11. Hey ddillas, Welcome to the forum. It seems a shame to be talking of scrapping or shifting the car on... I would be inclined to replace the timing chains and sliders, crank seal and maybe the tensioner and deal with what other problems are uncovered. Maybe replace the clutch and skim the flywheel while its off, too? Why are you thinking of a new motor? Replacing the timing chains is a pain to do, but well worth the effort. If you put a different motor in, you have an engine you don't know the history of. Whereas you know your engine is decent - havin
  12. Sounds like you are right about the rings. Last engine I rebuilt, the rings were too long once they were fitted to the piston and then compressed (to slide into the cylinder). We had to trim the rings down to the correct length to allow for the correct gap when placed inside the cylinder. That could be where all your resistance is coming from...
  13. You are right to be wary - if you can't turn it by hand, the starter isn't going to turn it over (when its all back together) either. I would expect you should be able to turn the crank using a small ratchet. Can you undo the big end caps for each piston and see if the crankshaft rotates freely on its own - without the pistons? Then re-add a piston at a time to see how it affects the "turning load"? You could have the wrong size bearing shells and when torqueing the bearing caps they could now be pinching? Maybe your machine shop could better direct yo
  14. You have an interesting problem there. The first three codes hint at wiring problems, as you've done the mechanical timing. I can't find your last code. 18728/P2296/008854 - Ross-Tech Wiki Fuel pressure regulator and wiring/connector. 16727/P0343/000835 - Ross-Tech Wiki Camshaft position sensor and wiring/connector. P0366 - Ross-Tech Wiki Other camshaft position sensor and wiring/connector. Maybe swap over the camshaft sensors, clear the codes and see if the error follows the sensor? P0366 mentions something about the Camshaft adjusters binding - cou
  15. Hi Wiggy and welcome! You would probably have to do just as much work as any other engine transplant as not a lot is compatible with where you are starting from. The Mk2 / Mk3 and Corrado have the "CE2" fusebox under the dash by your feet, but the Mk4 and Mk5 are different wiring systems, so there is a bit of work adapting the engine wiring and other bits to match the car you have (unless you convert the whole car to Mk4/5 wiring?). The ECU and engine electronics are a lot different from that in your car, as the systems are developed over time. For example; the R32
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