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matth76

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Everything posted by matth76

  1. matth76
    Sounds good not sure about the price though when 99 ron is about 97p. Link doesn't say where it's going to be though. Think BP need to get their prices down a bit though to compete in the market.
  2. matth76
    Erm' date=' I???? :? Matth76, just figured out who you were on Sat - we had brief chat, I was picking up Steve's cabby for him. Your VR looked rather minty! [/quote'] Thanks MrBen Nice meeting you mate. Was a good day. It's good meeting folk from the forum down at The Phirm.
  3. matth76
    Nice power! Must go like stink now. I may have to invest in one in the future What extra mods would be needed for safe stage 3 power (i.e over 300bhp)?
  4. matth76
    Hi Steve, Doesn't sound too good. Was Vince able to sort the Woodruff key/bolt out or make it stay where it's supposed to? Did you get your remap done or will that have to wait? (Nice to meet you Sat by the way)
  5. matth76
    It feels good to me as that's what I had on my last rr session. I may have more or less now as I've just had some 268 Eurospec cams added. Most lightly modded vr's normally make between 180-185ft/lbs torque...even with bhp figures of 200bhp. So above 190 is above average
  6. matth76
    When you say backfiring...does it sound like the exhaust is "popping"? Do you have a full exhaust system?
  7. matth76
    Anyone know where a second hand shrick (for an obd2) can be picked up...and approx how much?
  8. matth76
    Better to look at quarter mile or 0-100mph times. Much better than 0-60...especially for front wheel drive cars. bhp for a stage 1 is around 250-260bhp. Stage 2 (which includes improved fuelling/injectors etc) takes it to around 280bhp or over.
  9. matth76
    Blimey...what happened to your engine? Quite rare for a VR6 to go.
  10. matth76
    I got some new goodyear eagle F1's fitted to my standard 15's... I was originally running the same size as you 205 width but F1's only seem to come in 195 width which I gave a go and now the cornering is far sharper. Cost £50 a tyre inc. balancing fitting etc.
  11. matth76
    Never heard of them mate. I'm sure someone else on here may know or have experience with them. Ideally any induction kit needs heat sheilding or a good supply of cold air...gets very hot in the vr6 bay.
  12. matth76
    I must be reading your post wrong...but a bollard "smashed into you"?? Or was the bollard on a truck or something and the truck smashed into you? Sorry to hear your bad luck. Hope you get it sorted. If it was someone elses fault the cost should be covered by them! Does the second hand door come complete with operational electric window / motor etc?
  13. matth76
    Anyone know if Tesco are planning on increasing the number of 99ron fuel outlets?
  14. matth76
    I sourced the cams second hand - Eurospec (which are reground ones) for £230 from a member on here. The Phirm will charge me 3 hours labour to fit them.
  15. matth76
    I used to use Optimax (98 ron) which was expensive but still cheaper than BP Ultimate (97 ron) and to be honest I noticed no difference between the two. I've never once put 95 ron in as it makes the car run worse and invites pinking at very high revs. I then started using Tesco 99 ron fuel when I found a garage that did it nearby and it is far better than the old Optimax I used to use. I don't tend to feel it when the tank is under half full, but when it is full up the pick up is instant and it feels much smoother. Not sure if this is true or not but Tesco 99ron may in fact be BP fuel. But
  16. matth76
    Cams very rarely wear out. Sounds like the lifters or something else further below.
  17. matth76
    Mine does the same.. although happens when it is wet and I go over 80. It's just the seal. Nothing to worry about unless you can see lots of damp up there.
  18. matth76
    They do everything mate. Performance VW magazine uses The Phirm for all their own cars. First rate mate. And as said above will really go out of their way to help. 100mile trip down to them will be well worth it. I'm going to be getting one of their short shifters fairly soon. They're fitting some 268 cams for me in a weeks time so gotta watch the money. A short shifter should make the car much nicer to drive. Can't wait to get one fitted to mine... as you say the standard gear throw is bloody huge.
  19. matth76
    15bhp increase is very optimistic I hate to say. Maybe on forced induction cars but not on the n/a VR6. They are nice mods and free up more exhaust gasses but in reality you will only achieve a max of around 5bhp. I achieved no increase in bhp with mine (had rolling road session before and after) but on the good side I did gain some extra torque. Not sure where AMD came up with 15bhp! I didn't notice too much of a difference sound wise but maybe a bit louder when you really put your foot down. Couple it with an induction kit like a BMC and it will really sound closer to a muscle car!
  20. matth76
    What's the mileage?
  21. matth76
    Yeah I'll give that a try. Is there anything 'delicate' in the steering column that I could damage while squeezing a rag between the gap or using wd40? I did think about unscrewing the two bolts on the back of the steering wheel but I know nothing about the air bag so thought I'd best leave taking the wheel off to professionals! (unless it's real easy) I'll see if I can spray a bit of oil between the gap tomorrow.
  22. matth76
    Hi Just noticed a strange scratching/mild grating noise when ever I move the steering wheel. Actual steering is not affected and there is no knocking or anything. It sounds as though a bit of grit or something is caught up. Wasn't making the noise this morning only noticed it this afternoon. Although I have noticed this noise before but it was very faint and normally disappeared. Now it is very audiable. What could it be? Is it likely to be dirt or grit that has accumulated through the many holes either side of the steering boss? Cheers for any help.
  23. matth76
    Could be the mass air flow sensor. If you get no sensor faults on vag com then it could be the MAF...as this doesn't always show up on VAG COM. The VR6 is no different in terms of sensors to any other car of its age. It has ten times less sensors than your modern day vectra or focus! Sensors don't tend to go wrong much in the VR... but when they do they are easy to pinpoint and fix and relatively cheaply because vag com will tell you straight away where the problem is... this is as opposed to earlier cars where you would have to spend £'s on labour to pinpoint where the problem was. A gar
  24. matth76
    Some very high lift cams like 288's will give poor idling and only good power very high up the rev range. 268's, especially Shrick or Eurospec (the ones I'm having fitted) are supposed to give very good mid range power as well as top end, and idling is not affected much at all. I've got a full exhaust system but to be honest it didn't make much of a difference other than improving the looks and sound. It drives better but hasn't increased power that much ...the high flow cat did most of the increase. If your car is odb1 I would recommend a remap as you will get more power from your mods.
  25. matth76
    Agreed...the type and make of oil affects the temp quite a lot. Semi-synthetic is ideal. What make are you using? Temps shouldn't normally go much over 100 (if at all) even pelting it down the motorway at 99mph in this country unless its a hot summer (thats not very often!).
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