Devildub_06

Were the plugs black when you took them out? It sounds like a fuelling issue, which after the work you've done would probably centre itself as the Lambda probe being the problem. Any chance of a VAG.COM?

Well you have a problem now as the garage are effectively in control of the situation as the box is out. You regain control again once the job is completed so I would hold back any bartering until the car is in a driveable condition. 2 weeks for a 2 day job is simply inexcusable if the car was booked in correctly. Don't ever be scared of garages either, you are the customer after all, and if you're unsatisfied with any aspect of a job, then you have the right to say, so go in there and state you want 15% off (aiming for about 10%)

I should say so, as a mechanic myself I get so sick of these stories about time taken and bad jobs. I'd most definately haggle a discount, and stress the importance of needing your car (make up some shite story about your other one breaking too if you have one)

Check the back plate on your front brake disc for sufficient clearance, but i'd have an educated guess at wishbone bush. Do you know when these were done last?

Could well be the voltage regulator in the back of the dash (being model inspecific here). Engine wise sounds like an intermittent misfire, but i'd get your clocks working first before anything else.

Bleed ABS unit as per C2's suggestion. What I suggest you try then is some flexible brake line clamps on 3 of the 4 calipers, push the pedal and record any movement (a mate comes in real handy about this time!!). Rotate this clamping procedure to each wheel and record any movement in the unclamped brake line. I should think C2 is right though, ABS units are an air trap.

I've never known engine bay heat to affect a metal conductor's ability?? It may be due to the heat that the insulation gets damaged easier, that would cause you a problem, but not if they were properly secured/good condition leads.

Not really, you'll effectively just end up wasting more fuel because the fan will cut in quicker. The standard fan and fully working cooling system are more than capable of keeping a standard or mildly modified enigne within operating temperautre.

I'd say headgasket too being a mech, but if you've continually been starting it up like it, chances are you've warped the head too which is going to cost you a fortune.

Sounds like your gauge wires are earthing out to me, and if it's affecting coolant and oil, it's probably going to be behind the dash.

Ask a silly question time, but with a bit of jiggery pokery, will the 4 pot brembo calipers off a Seat Leon Cupra R go onto a VR? And in the same breath, could you use them in conjunction with a 312mm conversion?? Many thanks

Just answered your PM, let me know how you get on.

The grid is there to reduce turbulence of the incoming air. Taking this off may result in poor running as you will be swirling air towards the sensor which will in turn not be able to create the right signal when it comes to fuelling.

Is it well maintained? Know it sounds like a dumb arse question but you'd be surprised what passes for well maintained in this day and age. Also seen a few threads like this already, might be worth checking your HT leads, especially if they're "high performance" ones.

The "cooler" plugs transfer heat away from the firing tip faster preventing overheating (as you well know this causes the plug to break down and cause misfire). The same can be said in vice versa about "hotter" plugs which transfer heat away from the firing tip more slowly (these are used on cooler running engines where extra heat is needed in the plug to prevent coking up).