Jump to content

FishWick

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    2,636

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

 Content Type 

Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    I just reconnect mine for the MOT and then whip it off when I get home :-) I'm not putting smelly oily fumes into my engine! The Gibbons that MOT'd my car this year said I needed a CAT and it only just passed the emissions. So I pointed to the Milltek sport cat and asked them what they thought it was. Cats are obvious by the way the exhaust smells!
  2. FishWick
    The standard cams and fuel pump are the limiting factors at the top end when supercharging. I put a brand new VAG 4 bar pump in mine (and I have a Walbro on standby if it's not enough) and the power drops off at 6100rpm, where it makes 290hp. Vince said that's because of the cams. 6100rpm equates to roughly 7psi as the V9 is geared to make 8psi at 7000rpm (with the supplied pulley), but tbh, I rarely ever go over 6K anyway, so that's fine with me. 248 SCs would enable me to spin it round to 7K and get the extra psi (and possibly pass the 300hp barrier) but 10 or 15hp is neither here nor the
  3. FishWick
    Some late 12V rocker covers overseas have the breather outlet on the opposite side, just something to be aware of.
  4. FishWick
    The ECU needs the immobiliser box or it won't start the engine. Best bet is to get an older ECU and loom that doesn't have the immobiliser. I just taped the key to the transponder coil and shoved it behind the dash when I had the same issue.
  5. FishWick
    Good luck Jake, Vince will defo sort it. I'm keen to see what results you get as I'm still undecided on Stage 3. I don't think the transmission will last long with over 260 pounds going through it, although Vince rebuilt that last year.
  6. FishWick
    Do you mean the metal bars that bolt to the floor under the exhaust? I thought they were there to stop the exhaust falling off the car if it broke?
  7. FishWick
    That's because it's being drawn in through the heater, if you ran a hose down below the car it wouldn't stink half as much :-)
  8. FishWick
    Yeah the VF kits come with a catch tank, but oil will still drip down the intake. The only permanent cure is to vent to atmosphere. I run a long hose from the catch can down to the steering rack and fumes are only really noticable when sat in traffic. It's better than replacing the MAF every 3 months. You can also put a 90 degree samco coupling on the intake pipe to move the MAF away from the oil path.
  9. FishWick
    Do you get a grinding noise at all when turning? Could be a spent wheel bearing. You can't really tell if they're shot by wobbling the wheel.
  10. FishWick
    If you don't mind the odd whiff of crankcase fumes at idle, just vent to atmosphere. Actually, if you run a nice long pipe down to the steering rack, you won't smell it. The VR's vacuum on the over run is immense and it sucks in a goodly amount of oil vapours.
  11. FishWick
    If the ones from GSF have INA stamped inside the bucket, they should be OK. Don't buy any that are unmarked, THEY are the cack ones. They might come in Febi packaging, but ignore that, they should be INA. Although VW ones are INA too, that doesn't necessarily mean the GSF ones are exactly the same quality. OE and aftermarket qualities differ, even if the parts, in theory, are the same. OE suppliers have to make them to more exacting standards. I learned that mistake with clutches from GSF. Although VW use LUK and SACHS clutches (as per GSF), the VW one is produced to finer tolerances and
  12. FishWick
    100 cell is the only sport cat they do for a VR6. You don't need to remap an engine for intake and exhaust changes. The MAF and Lambda do the adjustments for you. Only a schrick benefits from a remap to get rid of the pinking at 3500rpm, but it's not essential.
  13. FishWick
    Have used BKR5EUP, BK6EIRX (iridium) and Bosch 16V ones on mine and it runs best on the Bosch 16V ones. You get so much horsesh1t surrounding plugs and HT leads. Just use the Golf ones, they're pence compared to the Iridiums, and Iridiums don't last half as long as claimed in a VR6 running a charger. I change them yearly, regardless, so might aswell use the cheap ones.
  14. FishWick

    6 branch

    FishWick replied to vwman's topic in Engine Tuning

    You can get away with a VF front one as the front cross member the mount sits on is isolated by rubber bushes. Don't use a VF rear one or gearbox mount, they're ridiculous. The best mounts by far are Vibratechnics.
  15. FishWick
    That EIP one is just a copy of the 2.9 mannie fellas.... don't waste your money. They never got the bigger plenum'd manifold over there. The Whoretex used to be full of Euro 2.9 manifold and throttle requests! I doubt very much you'd see 10hp from just changing the manifold. Those SRI manifolds (Short Runnner Intake) are indeed primarily for FI, but they claim to give good results on N/A too.....but no one has posted any plots yet to back it up, so save your pennies until there is evidence!
  16. FishWick
    Why not just fit a Corrado FPR which is 4 bar anyway? IIRC, the highine pump is only 3 bar anyway, so there would be no gain unless you fit the Rado 4 bar pump to go with the FPR. Unless you have a reason to increase the fuel pressure at the rail, I.e mods, I'd leave it standard personally or you'll run too rich.
  17. FishWick
    Charge coolers have an internal matrix with water flowing around them. The inlet pipe passes through this matrix and is cooled by the water jackets surrounding it. It works in exactly the same way as the engine's water jackets and radiator. Heat is drawn away and cooled by a small radiator mounted at the front.....and that's the downside of CC's....they need a pump, water/glycol supply, hosing, a radiator and a fan if you want to get that bit extra. Very well designed ones are at best equal to an intercooler, but poorly implemented ones struggle to lower temps below 45-50 deg C. For simpl
  18. FishWick
    I have also got a Milltek sport cat. I'd have preferred not to use Milltek as their Corrado exhausts are terrible, but they were the only people that did one and it's spot on! Brilliant build and fits perfectly with the lambda socket in the right place, unlike their bypass silencers. Matth, sport cats don't last as long as regular cats. Cats are like spark plugs, they deposit bits of themselves as the exhaust flows through the cells because they get super hot and is part of the 'catalysing' process, so if there's fewer cells (100 cells for the Milltek, 400 standard), they don't last as long.
  19. FishWick
  20. FishWick
    That one is from www.schimmelperformance.com and costs about £850 shipped. Bill Schimmel's is a proper casting and is funnelled (starting from cyl 1) so that the gas speed is equal across all 6 (unlike the C2 one) and also has clearance for the alternator, which some don't. The throttle is on the right, no individual TBs... that would be mega bucks!! I just love the way it's been designed to fit around the engine without having to move anything other than the battery (if you want the charge cooler). Top work. Bottom end torque shouldn't be affected because the intake pipe is humungously lo
  21. FishWick
    Yep, VW HGs are Victor Reinz.... or if in doubt get one from stealth as they use Reinz ones. On the timing front, personally I would take all the pistons out and reset the timing from scratch afterwards. Set the intermediate sprocket to 12 O'clock with Piston 1 at TDC and the timing mark on the crank pulley lined up with the dimple on the block. You can find true TDC by rotating the crank and on cyl 1, find the middle dwell point where the piston neither moves up nor down. It's hard to explain but it's obvious when doing it, but the crank pulley mark is where you want to be. With that set
  22. FishWick
    VRMonster does.... he's the man you need.
  23. FishWick
    The only thing I find with smoothrite is it chips off too easily when changing pads, but being enamel based, it's fine with heat and won't crack. Ideally you want a PTFE based cally paint, which is more flexible and is resistant to oil and all other harsh fluids, but it's expensive!
  24. FishWick
    Yeah guy's is 3.0 with low compression JE pistons, makes about 312hp I think. I might do stage 3, I'll see how it goes over the summer with stage 2 and aquamist. It pulls like a feckin train as it is, would 20hp more at the top end be really noticable for the extra outlay? I think VF want $75 for a pulley and I've already got a walbro pump and the idler bracket, so it should just be a case of fitting the pulley and getting Vince to map it. This is the perfect setup for a Rado though....awesome....
  25. FishWick
    Yeah it was the one on 17s with TAR-OX brakes. So he got it sorted in the end then? 315 is a great figure, 10 more than what VF quote. Anything else done to it? Stage 3 isn't available for the Rado yet, not sure if I'll go for it though. 290 is enough! Wouldn't mind an intercooler though, but I don't like the way VF run the pipes....right above the exhaust?!
×
×
  • Create New...