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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. FishWick
    Well....not sure if I should say this really, but Vince did a Stage 3 (10psi with intercooler) Golf a couple of weeks ago and it made less power than mine. Vince and I are pretty much in agreement that for every day use, the Stage 2 is the best bet. As for cams, the standards are quite restrictive at the top end but the the standard intake arrangements (manifold, throttle etc) seem fine....and I'm running the standard VAG exhaust and a milltek cat, which again aren't as restrictive as people think, well, the Corrado VR system is certainly well up to 350+, not sure about the Golf system. Schri
  2. FishWick
    Some of you may have been following my supercharging exploits in the long forgotten GB thread. My Rado was fitted with a stage 2 (8psi) VF Engineering kit in July last year and it wasn't without it's issues. 8 months on, an OBD2 conversion and freshly remapped by Vince at Stealth, we finally have the numbers I paid for !lol 290hp and just shy of 260 pounds. Power - Torque - For comparison, I've included the GIAC chip's figures which comes with the kit. Both runs are one a hot engine with my water injection (10% pure methanol, 10% methanol based screen wash & 80% deionised water) run
  3. FishWick
    Nope didn't need any wheel spacers, there's loads of clearance. The 312s give you 6mm extra clearance so should fit behind most 16s and 17s.
  4. FishWick
    Yep that's it! Cheers on the rims too mate. I don't know of any more sets unfortunately! Well, my braking plans have changed yet again..... this time I've gone balls out and bought the kit on the left! http://www.apracing.com/pics/04_brake_kit.jpg Complete kit - 4 pot calipers, alloy bells, 304x28 drilled rotors, hoses, ferodo DS2500 pads, litre of 5.1 fluid and some other bits n bobs....designed for the MK3/Corrado platform. The lower ball joint needs grinding slightly to clear the disc, but the good news is they will fit behind my speedlines with 3mm to spare, hurrah, no sodding spacers!
  5. FishWick
    Aren't you on the Corrado forum? Recognise the name. Anyway, before splashing out on sensors, guages, thermostats etc lets look at the basics.... 1) Air lock - Have you drained and refilled via the rad top hose to ensure there are no air locks? 2) Are the fans working properly, all 3 speeds? It could be that the 1st speed isn't working as it's quite subtle. Mine used to run at similar temps and the only cure was an Mocal oil cooler and a full coolant flush and new rad temp sender. Now it rarely goes over 90 on the oil. I would wire in the 3rd fan speed if you're concerned about traffic te
  6. FishWick
  7. FishWick
    I'm trying to see if I can get Brembo sportline discs (grooved or drilled) in floating flavour, i.e. an alloy bell instead of solid. This saves about 1.5Kg a corner of unsprung weight. I'm big into that. I've recently dumped my 17s in favour of light weight Vento VR6 Cup challenge 16" speedlines and fitted them with Uniroyal Rainsports, which are a very light tyre. The difference already is phenomenal. Everything is better....ride, turn-in, initial brake bite and handling. If I can get these floating discs, then the overall unsprung weight would be the same or less than the original 15"
  8. FishWick
    Agreed but the Vibra gearbox one does transmit more diff whine into the cabin than the MK2 rubber one. You definitely want to do the front and rear ones together. A standard rear takes too much compression if uprating just the front, the force has to go somewhere. I've seen rear mount bolts bend and eventually snap as a result of just using an uprated front.
  9. FishWick
    www.nsracing.com can get the mounts easily enough if you're struggling elsewhere. Sure you want all 3? Just the front one transmits a hefty jolt through the body on cold startups....I hate to think what all 3 would do!
  10. FishWick
    LOL Not at all, I'm a regular cyclist and have strong legs but you start to feel it after an hour's constant clutch pedal pumping in heavy traffic. That sachs plate is quite a bit heavier than stock
  11. FishWick
    Yeah I've replied to that on the other forum too, you can tweak low, mid and high tables accordingly to get what you want. I'm not sure how much his rechips are as he's doing his first one at the moment (a charged VR golf) since getting the equipment but I think £350+VAT was a figure he mentioned, best to confirm with him. It's about the same as the Dastek anyway. The Dastek is an offboard device that intercepts the MAF signal, they're not as good, fast or flexible as a rechip imo and you can only take away timing and fuel with those, you can't add them like you can with a rechip, unless y
  12. FishWick
    Yeah, OBD2 ones can't be reworked (other than removing the ramp) as they're sealed for life. OBD1 throttles can take the larger butterfly no problem.
  13. FishWick
    Stock FWD tranny is good for about 280ish lb/ft but you'll want to get the diff bolted though. An old, tired box will let go sooner than a rebuilt one, so I'd recommend you replenish the bearings, worn synchros and bolt the diff. A peloquin or Quaife ATB is not a bad idea either, along with a fresh clutch. Dunno what the synchro can handle...but not as much as the Haldex, that's for sure. I'd also fit uprated engine mounts and an upper brace too. The mounts will stop the charger intake rubbing the inner wing under hard acceleration and the brace will prevent the turrets pulling apart when b
  14. FishWick
    Yeah you can use a normal friction disc with the racing pressure plate, it's just the stronger springs of the racing plate that gives you more bite strength over standard anyway but Helix Autosport do some nice organic plates that bite really well, but they don't last as long as stock. Bear in mind the stock clutch and tranny are good for 300hp and about 280ish lb/ft anyway, are you sure you want the heavier pedal from the sachs racing plate in heavy traffic? Trust me, your knee will ache big time after an hour's use......
  15. FishWick
    Make sure you get a fibre gasket from VW (the revised one) as the old style rubber ones are prone to leaking. I did mine up slightly tighter than normal at 12lb/ft.
  16. FishWick
    Changing out the alt is easy.....are you sure it's that that is screeching and not a siezed belt tensioner bearing? If you're sure the alt is dead, then they're not expensive from the dealer (about £90 exchange) but if it's giving 13.8V with the engine running, it might just be the bearing in it that's gone, but either way it'll need replacing as it's more cost effective then rebuilding it. On the corrado, you need to take the headlight and airbox out and jack the engine up and pull the alternator through headlight hole, but the on the Golf you might not need to do that, not sure, but it's no
  17. FishWick
    Ooooh, ac compressors are scarily expensive. It's on an electromagnetic clutch, so as long as you don't run the ac, it should just freewheel away and not cause you any grief. If you did want to remove the pump, you'd need the non-ac brackets and belt from the non-ac engine I'm afraid.
  18. FishWick
    Yep, OBD2 MAFs are 4 pin 'hot film' and minus the preheat stage that the earlier 'hot wire' 6 pin MAFs have.
  19. FishWick
    What age is the VR? Is it a 95 with factory immobiliser? It's common on those for the reader coil on the steering column to pop and the ECU will block the engine from running.
  20. FishWick
    For what it's worth I've tried 268s with and without a VSR and big throttle and the loss of bottom end past 2000rpm is negligable. Interestingly the VSR/VGI itself loses you 10lb/ft at 1500rpm over the standard manifold, so it really needs multiple switching points imo. If you prefer midrange torque, go for DSR 256 or Schrick 248 (non forced induction spec). The standard cams are about 230ish IIRC.
  21. FishWick
    Don't bother with the Dastek, get Vince to do you a rechip instead, which he can now do. It's better to have the software done onboard for faster response times. OBD2 runs at peak tune all of the time so gains will be minimal but you can do a lot with it compared to OBD1, so midrange tweaking of the fuelling, MAF and ignition tables to suit the 6 branch might yield more power and torque. OBD2 is very good for drivability I find but if there's any flatspots, they can be smoothed off.
  22. FishWick
    alpina527@aol.com Ian is a top bloke and turns the throttles round very quickly. It's on an exchange basis so you'll need to send him your old one.
  23. FishWick
    Word of warning on the 312s.....don't use Audi discs! Mine warped after 3 months and I'm not even that heavy on the pedal. I've been running Brembo plain 312 discs and Pagid fast road Golf 288 pads for a few weeks now and it's a very good combo and £150 all in, so quite cheap. The Brembos come with replacement disc locating screws but they're too long, so you can't use them, you'll need shorter golf ones instead.
  24. FishWick
    Yes, a lot smoother and less reluctant. I have Vibratech competition front and their fast road spec at the rear, and a solid rubber gearbox mount, which is from a MK2 Golf diesel. I've also got poweflex front cross member bushes so engine movement is at a minium, which makes the whole car feel a lot more stable mid bend and engine vibration is stock. The only downside is a slight jolt through the car when the engine fires up in the morning because of the stiff front mount and X-member bushes but when it's hot, it's spot on. The front and rear are the most important ones but do get rid of th
  25. FishWick
    Yep, should be completely silent post fitment of new parts.
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